Building a singlespeed wheelset
#1
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Building a singlespeed wheelset
Can BMX hubs be used? I want to use this bike for both training (in all weather) and fun coasts from the top of our local mountains, so it needs to be able to hold up to 35-45mph speeds.
#2
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Which kind? Maybe the 9t ones will be needed to gear up high enough
might get to 45mph if you are descending Denali
then I'd wear lots of skid protection for when you come off the Bike .
Otherwise I just use Freewheel hubs and make them symmetrical with a axle spacer stack of equal size ,,
there are wider single speed hubs to fit in 135 wide MTB frames .
they will have disc brake mounts , you might want to slow from 45 MPH to make it around some corners .
might get to 45mph if you are descending Denali
then I'd wear lots of skid protection for when you come off the Bike .
Otherwise I just use Freewheel hubs and make them symmetrical with a axle spacer stack of equal size ,,
there are wider single speed hubs to fit in 135 wide MTB frames .
they will have disc brake mounts , you might want to slow from 45 MPH to make it around some corners .
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-12-16 at 07:22 PM.
#3
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hmm thanks. I know it seems a bit ridiculous to be considering those speeds but I do know I've hit 44mph on my district going down that hill, and it felt ok going around the wide corners on Bontrager LT1s for the most part (was in the mid-30s for the corners though) so I figure the SS with drop bars coasting should get similar speeds
#4
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Differences between road, single speed, BMX hubs tends to be more about bearing size/location, cog attachment specs, axle length/diameter, flange size/location.
The first step is to filter out hubs that don't meet the frame's specs. Axle diameter, length. Next is the cog attachment. Cassette, freewheel (single/multiple), fixed w/ lock ring. Next is often the method of securement. QR, nutted or bolted (for through axle see frame spec). Last is the spoke count/flange diameter.
There is nothing ridiculous to want to be safe at 40+mph speeds. But the hubs will have VERY little impart of this. The grade of wheel build (rim, spokes, tension, true/dish) will be FAR more the issue. Even then a half way decently build wheel should not be an issue as long as the rider does his part. Not hit gravel, slippery spots, pot holes, speed bumps, shudder strips, other riders or cars, etc.
Around our playground (the Finger Lakes of NYS) we see 50+mph often and I don't give my well build wheels a second thought, even on the tandem where I'm responsible for another rider.
I do think about my tires, but these aren't wheels. I use well made tires and don't push their life spans much. I keep them inflated to levels that I've proven work for me. I brush off my tires routinely and pick out flint and shards every few weeks or more often if I've been riding in bad areas. I make sure my tires are properly seated and I unweight to the best of my ability when I can't avoid crap. Andy.
The first step is to filter out hubs that don't meet the frame's specs. Axle diameter, length. Next is the cog attachment. Cassette, freewheel (single/multiple), fixed w/ lock ring. Next is often the method of securement. QR, nutted or bolted (for through axle see frame spec). Last is the spoke count/flange diameter.
There is nothing ridiculous to want to be safe at 40+mph speeds. But the hubs will have VERY little impart of this. The grade of wheel build (rim, spokes, tension, true/dish) will be FAR more the issue. Even then a half way decently build wheel should not be an issue as long as the rider does his part. Not hit gravel, slippery spots, pot holes, speed bumps, shudder strips, other riders or cars, etc.
Around our playground (the Finger Lakes of NYS) we see 50+mph often and I don't give my well build wheels a second thought, even on the tandem where I'm responsible for another rider.
I do think about my tires, but these aren't wheels. I use well made tires and don't push their life spans much. I keep them inflated to levels that I've proven work for me. I brush off my tires routinely and pick out flint and shards every few weeks or more often if I've been riding in bad areas. I make sure my tires are properly seated and I unweight to the best of my ability when I can't avoid crap. Andy.
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My friends and I used to get driven to the tops of long hills then coast down on BMX and "cruiser" (26" wheel) BMX bikes. No problems with 30-40mph speeds, even on 20" wheels.
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