Drops on a mountain bike
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 492
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From: West Palm Beach, FL
Bikes: Giant OCR1
Drops on a mountain bike
I have a "91 Cannondale SM1000 that I want to install drops on. I've seen a picture in this forum where someone else did the same thing. I used to have a road bike and I really miss the handlebars, but a road bike just isn't practical for me.
Anyway, I've been trying to figure out exactly what I have on my bike. I know I have a ritchey logic headseat, and a ritchey stem (not exactly sure what kind, no id marks). I measured the width of the stem and it is 7/8". Since this is a mtn bike it is probably safe to assume that the handlebar is 25.4mm at the clamp point from what I read. I have to figure out a way to measure that.
Also, I have cantilever brakes. My stem has a little holder that keeps the brake cable going stratight down to the front brakes.
So the parts I think I need are.
Nitto 115 handlebars on this page
And these brake levers
In addition I know I'll need some tape for the bars and this would also be a good time to replace the brake cables. I'll probably pick up some bar end friction shifters as well.
Thoughts? Comments? Any help is appreciated.
Anyway, I've been trying to figure out exactly what I have on my bike. I know I have a ritchey logic headseat, and a ritchey stem (not exactly sure what kind, no id marks). I measured the width of the stem and it is 7/8". Since this is a mtn bike it is probably safe to assume that the handlebar is 25.4mm at the clamp point from what I read. I have to figure out a way to measure that.
Also, I have cantilever brakes. My stem has a little holder that keeps the brake cable going stratight down to the front brakes.
So the parts I think I need are.
Nitto 115 handlebars on this page
And these brake levers
In addition I know I'll need some tape for the bars and this would also be a good time to replace the brake cables. I'll probably pick up some bar end friction shifters as well.
Thoughts? Comments? Any help is appreciated.
#2
Go to your LBS and see if you can find an old short-reach, hi-riser quill stem with 26mm bar clamp as most drop bars are 26mm. Some LBS's have them laying around in their junk box. Other than that, you should be A OK... I assume you're running a 7-speed. A new (old stock) Ultegra 8-speed bar end shifters will work just fine. Oh, and forget about installing cable/barrel adjusters, your rear derailleur cable adjuster is all you'll need. That's what I run.
Last edited by roadfix; 05-09-05 at 11:40 AM.
#3
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: West Palm Beach, FL
Bikes: Giant OCR1
yeah I've got 7 spds in back and 3 in front. I guess I could change the stem, that way I could get ergo bars since there all 26mm. The bars I had picked out are 25.4mm so they would work with my current stem. Guess its time to go exploring.
#5
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 986
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From: Northern CA
Bikes: Cannondale tandems: '92 Road, '97 Mtn. Mongoose 10.9 Ti, Kelly Deluxe, Tommaso Chorus, Cdale MT2000, Schwinn Deluxe Cruiser, Torker Unicycle, among others.
I'd look for Charlie Cunningham on the web. He builds custom alum. mountain bikes in Marin and uses drop bars. He might provide some insight into set up. You might also want to consider including some of the new brake levers on the flats as well. They've been the rage among 'cross racers for several years now. Paul Components makes 'em as well as others. I use them on my road tandem and like the additional braking position. Good luck.
#7
Originally Posted by bostontrevor
You could also go with On-One Midge dirt drops but the strength of the pound and the weakness of the dollar will deal you wallop.
#8
Matt Chester, known WTB nutcase, absolutely raves about the Midge saying they fixed some things that were broken on the WTBs. I've never ridden either, but they're the same basic design.
https://www.on-one.co.uk/products/midge.shtml
https://www.on-one.co.uk/news/mattbarreview.shtml
https://www.on-one.co.uk/products/midge.shtml
https://www.on-one.co.uk/news/mattbarreview.shtml
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: West Palm Beach, FL
Bikes: Giant OCR1
Yeah I'm gonna get some inline brake levers for the flats as well. I ride in the city so I would spend about half the time in the drops when the road is clear, but when I'm in traffic I would want to stay up and having those extra levers would be great if I need to do an OS stop.
Just for curiosity's sake, what qualifies as a short reach, tall stem. Minimum reach I can see is 90mm. What is a tall stem?
Also, most of the stems I see don't have the little slot for the brake cable so I can use my cantilever brakes.
Just for curiosity's sake, what qualifies as a short reach, tall stem. Minimum reach I can see is 90mm. What is a tall stem?
Also, most of the stems I see don't have the little slot for the brake cable so I can use my cantilever brakes.
Last edited by pharmboyrx; 05-09-05 at 02:33 PM.
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: West Palm Beach, FL
Bikes: Giant OCR1
ooooo. nm, I just looked up the nitto stem. It looks like it would work, but it still doesn't have the little thing that holds the brake cable for the cantilevers. Are there any little brackets that might serve this purpose? Also, what would be a good reach. The 50mm seems pretty shorts compared to other models.
Last edited by pharmboyrx; 05-09-05 at 02:54 PM.
#11
You can get a Nitto dirt drop stem. For the cable, get a cable hanger like so: https://harriscyclery.net/site/itemde...=39&sort=Price
#13
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,417
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Let me know how it works out for you. I have two hand positions on my mountain bike (grips and extensions) and would like to have the five positions afforded by a good set of drops. My hands never get tingly when I ride my road bikes, but it sometimes happens on my mountain bike.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#14
I couldn't car less.

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,397
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Bikes: Ritchey P-series prototype, Diamondback, Nishiki Triathelon Pro.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/105784-bar-end-shifter-friction-shifter-indexed-derailer-q.html
I'm off in leftfield into barcons and road derailers now. Please reply if you have any thoughts..I didn't want to pose it in this thread.
I'm off in leftfield into barcons and road derailers now. Please reply if you have any thoughts..I didn't want to pose it in this thread.





