I'm planning to repaint my commuter frame soon (once I get some cooperative weather, darnit!), and based primarily on recommendations here I'm planning to use PlastiKote spray-can enamels.

The question is which of their enamels to use? There's "Super Enamel", "Ultra Enamel", and the special "Engine Enamel" intended for high-heat engine applications. I love the hot-rod colors that the Engine enamel comes in, and it sounds like it would be extremely durable, but I've also read that it has something of a rough texture. Does anyone know for sure?

Beyond that, has anyone had experience with the Super and Ultra enamel paints? Is there really a difference?

Finally, I don't have access to an oven big enough to bake a whole frame in, but I have an excellent heat gun - is it possible to help increase the hardness of the paint by heating it with the heat gun, or would I have to do it so long that my arms would fall off?

Thanks!

I have used the engine series on things up to tractor hoods with much success. Yes you will get best hardness from baking. Heat gun use will not be consistent enough to rely on. What I would try to do is find a usually hot place(now that summer is here there are some). When I have the top on my truck I put the frame in there and the sun makes it pretty warm. Garage attics are good too. Sometimes, depending on the color(if it is dark enough) you can make a foil lined box and cover it with a sheet of glass or plexiglass and maek a solar based oven. It is suprising what that will do to a black thru blue colored frame.

When I saw Plastikote, it got me thinking of a nylon coating. In a past job, we used to use nylon coated baskets for Zygloing castings. The nylon help up really well against the abuse of parts being thrown into them and jostled around. Has anyone heard of a nylon coated bike frame?

Thanks - that's a really interesting idea. I wonder what the neighbors would think of my frame baking in a makeshift box in the backyard The main triangle's going to be black, so that could go a long way. Oh, actually the back of my station wagon gets quite warm on sunny days - I bet that's a lot like your truck with its top.

I live in the fog zone of San Francisco, so hot weather is actually pretty hard to come by any time of year - I'm praying for a couple of weeks of warm weather so I can get this done.

This is what I'm planning (prototyped in Photoshop ):


Of course, I can't quite decide between hot rod orange and hot rod green:

Pretty sharp. Good use of contrasts.

If you have a good automotive paint store around, many fill their own spray cans. You can get all the Auto colors and they can add enamel hardener right in. Might be another option.

Nice Photoshop mock-up too, BTW. I 'baked' a frame I painted on top of my black van last month; it does speed things up some.

While I don't have any experience with Plasticote or with baking bicycles... I thought I'd let you know how much I like your proposed paint job. Its made me renew my search for an old frame to convert to a fixie/commuter. Love the orange

You can skip the baking step by using one of the auto epoxy type paints. Epoxy paint hardens by catalytic reaction. These paints are bomb-proof after they cure. Some of these paints are available in spray cans, but most are sold by the pint/quart and require spray equipment. The more durable paints are two part affairs that require mixing prior to application. Look in the yellow pages for a local auto-body supply store -- not a parts store.

I just did one with catalyzed-urethane hardener. While it is superior, it can be prohibitive in cost for more than single color jobs. Safety equipment is not to be downplayed with such paints as well. It is a step above any enamel you have used, it's trade off being that it bonds to many things including lungs, eyes and skin permanently. For this reason, I would be reluctant to reccomend you do this unless you are ready to invest in the proper setup.
Urethane/epoxies are easy to spray and produce good gloss with good durability. In your application, however I would still reccomend a baked plain enamel. A little less scratch resistent, but still produces good results.

A respirator is required for all types of spray painting, even the stuff that comes in an aerosol can. A good quality respirator can be purchased at Home Depot for about 25 bucks. Safety glasses go for 5-10 bucks. Urethane hardener can be dangerous if absorbed through the skin, disposable plastic coveralls are also cheap to buy.

With a little precaution, catalyzed automobile paints can be successfully, and safely, used by the novice.

I have baked emamel onto components, it does work. You should test first as to different brands.
I was going around 140, 20 min, 3 coats. A hard glassy surface, some color change as the temp went high.

The important thing is painting anyway is getting primer to stick well, clean the bare metal to remove oils (hand).
High\bright colors need a white base or primer?
I liked the green ver.

How about a safe enclosure and 2 heatlamps?

-also clearcoats and finish with waxes to protect I think?

I re-painted one of my bikes a couple of times. The first attempt I used Hammerite (I think similar to the Rustoleum brand in the USA) since I was not confident in getting a good smooth finish. Last year I was braver and used plastikote gloss enamels, finished with a clear coat with very good results. One thing I would warn about is that the metallic paints do not seem to adhere as well, or be as tough as the solid colours. Otherwise good stuff. Sadly, about 4 weeks after the respray and overhaul, my frame broke

Good luck,

Ed

While I agree as a paint professional that protective gear is a must, there is deeper reason to my statement. Non-catalyzed paints and laquers, when ingested in lungs will eventually degrade and be passed off. Not ideal but not as deadly. I know many body shop painters who are in their 60s and 70s that lived a bit on the edge with the laquers and enamels. Still fine. Several will not touch urethane.
Isocyanate catalyzed paints, such as urethane enamel bond permanently. The eventual film will decrease the usable lung area and eventually cause asphixiation. On a lesser note, the chief painter in my shop has a semi-lethal reaction to the fumes of the catalyzer. Not common, but not predictable, as he can smell any other chemicals available to us with no effect.
Due to this fact, you will want a fresh-air respirator. Mere filter masks(even NIOSH), while removing the paint particulates, will not remove the volatile compounds. I will use a filter when the room air is on high volume(or outdoors) but as a rule, if you can smell it then you shouldn't be near it.
Whichever system you choose, Be certain to find and read all pertinent literature before using. Every paint brand/system has it's own proceduresfor ideal results. The literature is almost always free from the paint stores or sometimes even printed on the labels. Follow those instructions and warnings and you will be rewarded with excellent results.

https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npptl/topic...html#selection

Regardless of the finish type, do not use wax of any sort for almost a month. The full hardness can take as long to occur and is hindered by waxes or any surface sealant as such. After said period however, you can and should wax it.

Good link, Jeff.

Great info as always mtnbikerinpa.

Hey Kids,
What temperature should I bake my freshly painted bike at, and for how long? I'm about 90% finished with a masonite/silver reflective foam box with a heat lamp, a dimmer switch, and a latte thermometer. I should be able to do temperatures from ambient up to around 200 F if my math is correct. Should it have a little computer fan moving air in and out? I plan to use krylon and I'm doing this so I can set up a roadbike rehab factory for my Boy Scout troop. We were painting the bikes and the paint was just too soft for too long. These kids are manic to ride their bikes, right after they reassemble them. Often the paint isn't hard yet.

What thinketh the forum?