Frankenbike77

Rookie mistake #1
I installed clipless pedals on the wrong side. Crossed thread allll the way (the resistance should have been a dead give away)

Rookie mistake #2
I removed pedals and installed them correctly. (I heavily greased threads, so it wasn't a total pain to remove)
I assumed crank threads had damage. Pedal threads were fine.

Rookie mistake #3
I logged about 50km on them before considering if this was a good idea

My question:
I know the wisdom is to replace cranks or install Helicoil if this happens.
However, the pedals appear to be on very tight, installed squarely, with zero wiggle
I am a commuter, each trip being only 8km in length.
In anyone's opinion, so long as I routinely check for worsening condition, can I continue to rise with these cranks?

Andrew R Stewart 

A few points- Are the pedals, now on the correct sides, threaded in straight and fully seated against the crank arms? If so then as the final tightening was being done did the pedals seem to bottom out with a solid feel, or was there a end of tightening range of the tightening getting greater with no seemingly end to the tightening?

If the pedals went in straight and seemed to tighten down as usual I would leave enough alone. You did use some thread lube didn't you? Andy.

andr0id

You have left and right handed threads. It looks like this inside the arm //////// and \\\\\\\\

Now you're run both pedals in the wrong way, so you have threads that look like this inside the arms XXXXX* and XXXXX*

That's gotta tear up a lot of soft aluminum and weaken the pedal attachment.


*This is just an artist's representation. What's going on inside your crank arm is probably all screwed up even worse.

corrado33

I will say this. I have used a freaking nice crankset from a bike that someone cross threaded the pedals onto. Only one crank was cross threaded (unfortunately it was the drive side crank.) So I ran a pedal tap through it, cleaned up the threads and stuck a pedal on there. It hasn't given me trouble yet, but then again I don't ride that bike very much.

AnkleWork

I know a guy who once twisted open a live pressure cooker while he wasn't paying attention. He's a blacksmith and the resistance didn't seem to matter -- but that really happened.

Delmarva

With 50km on them it is safe to assume the now correctly installed pedals are not at all loose and still snug against the crank. You could confirm that with a wrench. The pedal threads did essentially what a tap would do.

Frankenbike77

Thanks for the replies everyone,

Andrew,
Yes, he pedals are on the correct side, fully seated, and thread straight.
The final tightening did bottom-out with a solid feel. It does not allow me to endlessly tighten
I just use auto-grease for non-mechanical parts (specifically Marine Grease, not intended to high-temperature, pressure parts)
*Edit* I also repacked by freehub and bottom bracket with this stuff....

Android,
I imagine that your rendition of "XXXXXX" is spot-on.
Although the pedals appear to be seated super-tight, I imagine the lifespan of the cranks is now seriously reduced.

I guess what am I am wondering is if I can expect a noticeable degradation of pedal/crank connection, or could it possibly catastrophically fail while riding in rush-hour traffic.
If the former, it would simply be a case of monitoring the pedals closely, and replacing crankset at the first sign of looseness, crookedness, etc (my crankset is cheap - aliexpress cheap - and not worth the cost of repairing)

I think I have the answer I need. I will continue to ride, but will keep an eye on it, just to be safe.
Also, I will remember to release the pressure from the cooker before attempting to open it.

Bezalel

Now that it's on it should be fine but every time you change pedals you need to be extra careful that the threads go in correctly.

FBinNY 

Actually, this was a fairly common event decades back. In the meantime, most (all?) makers have installed a pressure activated interlock to make this impossible.

It's just one more example of why we should never underestimate the genius of fools.

dsbrantjr

Yeah, it is tough to make things idiot-proof because idiots are so clever.

gsa103

Never underestimate the ingenuity of a determined idiot.

SquidPuppet

I see you have received some helpful answers, and I'm glad you have.

That said, man oh man, how was that even possible? Seems like it would have been super difficult to even get them started, let alone straight.

deapee

I would replace them. I wouldn't feel comfortable hammering on them on a big climb or sprint.

That being said -- you're never supposed to grease threads. Everyone does it, but it's still wrong. Maybe some anti-sieze like the blue "non-permanent" stuff. Maybe some white lithium on the back and a little on the front once it's threaded if you're really concerned about moisture and ride a lot in the rain.

SquidPuppet

Why?

Bezalel

A random Shimano instruction sheet (PD-M520) makes no mention either way but Park says to use grease. In contrast when it comes to plastic BB retention ring Shimano explicitly says not to use grease so I'd say the don't care when it comes to pedals.

bikemig 

Seriously? I'm working on a bike where someone must have followed your advice because the BB, pedals, and stem binder bolt have all seized up. . . .

AnkleWork

He sheared the aluminum interlock. He is strong enough and just wasn't paying attention (probably has a high pain threshold in his hands).

Cross threading both pedals all the way in would require attention, care, and effort.

speedy25

I didnt cross thread my pedals but still had one strip out. Of course it was the left hand threaded one. I just coughed up some cash to the LBS that had the expensive insert tools. They did a great job and I have had no more problems.

-SP

Ronsonic 

It's a bicycle everything on it is supposed to have grease. That parts you want to move smoothly, the parts you want to stay fixed. Except for the tapers. Never grease a tapir.




Maybe I'm confused about that. Maybe not.

Bezalel

If it moves when it shouldn't use duct tape. If it doesn't move when it should use WD-40.


Oh wait, we're discussing bicycles. Disregard everything above and just use grease.

drlogik 

I'd leave them alone and keep an eye on them. If they fall out, then helicoils. Chalk it up to the bike repair learning curve.

I'm going to improve upon the old adage: If it moves and shouldn't JB Weld. If it doesn't move and should Kroil.

Yan 

Try not to be standing, pedaling up hill when that pedal comes off. You are likely to crush your nuts.

Frankenbike77

Well, it certainly took effort....might have been a little lacking in the first 2 qualities though

deapee

Grease, of varying thickness can interfere with torque. It wasn't designed to be on the threads of components when they are torqued into place. It was designed to lubricate moving parts.

As I mentioned: the non-permanent antisieze (blue stuff) is fine to put on the threads and was designed for exactly the purpose that this thread is about. White lithium grease on the ends would prevent moisture or other contaminants from getting in as well.

Grease was designed to lubricate moving parts. Period. Your threads are not moving parts. They should be torqued to a specification and remain in a fixed position until you want to remove them. Loctite (blue antisieze) was designed for this purpose...not grease.

Looigi

^^^ I'm guessing you're adamant about using the terms "screw" and "bolt" correctly?