My brother-in-law.

Park Tool ISIS bottom bracket tool, BBT-18. Terribly loose fit and the dang thing has an octagon on the back side. Yes, 8 flats, not 6. More is better, right? Unless you want to put a socket or box end wrench on it. Horrible tool for an almost obsolete bottom bracket interface but I still wonder WTH Park Tool was thinking with that thing.

I think they were thinking that you would use their HCW-15 as a wrench. At least that is what I do.

Thin, open-end wrench for bottom bracket cup install and removal? Eh, I'd rather not, which is an irrelevant comment because the fit of the tool is so poor that I wouldn't trust it even when torque-limited. I also take particular satisfaction in hearing that torque wrench click so any tool that can't accommodate it is pretty useless to me. This tool is better in every way: https://www.amazon.com/IceToolz-Tool-.../dp/B00159IICC

Lock ring tool for Malliard helicomatic hubs is less useless if you have one of those old french Freehubs ..

Otherwise the opposite end will Open your bottle of Bière.

That is a very kind gesture melloveloyellow.

Park HW-2 headset wrench. Looks nice...fits like crap. Makes a better weapon than a tool.

Either that or he went to school at UCRA...

Me too I am happy I have one. I find without it, working on the bike is a big PIA.

Not a tool issue, but I have had excellent experience buying parts for Park shop equipment (like the PRS-2). Most recently, I needed a "part-of-a-part", something not normally sold separate from the larger assembly. No problem, the CSR made up a fair price on the phone and shipped it to me with reasonable shipping costs.

Well, this review seems to say that it will guide you in adjusting H and L limits. But the review doesn't claim that it does the B screw.

But it's not just $39, it's $39 plus an ongoing fee. Um, nope.

As a young auto mechanic, and old guy said to me: "Buy good tools. It's painful once, and then a pleasure to use for a lifetime. If you buy cheap tools, it feels good once, and then it's painful to use each time until it breaks, then you have the pain of buying it again."

I have a collection of Snap-on, Mac, and Bondhus. And yes, Park stuff, but I don't have any illusion about Park being of the quality of the other stuff.

VAR can be hard to find.

+1. I really want to like the 4/5/6 Y-wrench, I use it whenever a bolt is out in the open, but too often it can't spin because things are in the way: I'm looking at you, seat bolts and bottle cages! I bought a PH-5, and love it to death. I may also buy PH-4/6 eventually as well, but I'm not buying the whole set. Maybe someday I'll see a generic set of metric p-handle hex wrenches with ball-ends on the long sides. (this would be great if it weren't torx)

I'll also nominate the chainring bolt holder. On the rare occasion where it is needed, it's near impossible to hold still. Works no better than a bigass flathead screwdriver.

Not quite a tool, but 'glueless' patches. A.k.a. stickers.

Oooh, founit. I gotta get out to HF...

Ruberad,

You won't ever look back:
L-Wrenches - Ball End

and

T-Handles

I carry this with me on my bike bag. Wonderful tool!
Fold Ups

Professional quality tools for the same price (sometimes cheaper) than Park's comparable tools.

Harbor Freight is cheap but also junk.

I used to have one but never used it because it was faster and easier to tilt the bike on my workstand til the front wheel pointed straight. I think that I gave it away when one of the 50+ guys mentioned his wife needed one so she could fit her bike into her car more easily.

I have a "Wrench Force" (Trek's former house brand) handlebar holder that came with my Wrench Force labeled Ultimate work stand. It's a telescoping small diameter aluminum rod with a rubber strap at each end. The rod is adjustable for length and the rubber straps wrap around the seatpost at one end and the handlebar at the other. It works well, can fit a variety of bikes and, since the length is adjustable, it can be set to hold the front wheel at any angle you want. I find it very useful.

That's the one I have as well (though it has an Ultimate sticker on it). They're convenient when assembling a new bike, though I rarely use it on an assembled bike. Probably because the front wheel adds enough weight that even a slight forward tilt give the front end a self-centering effect and keeps the handlebars stable.

One thing I've use mine for occasionally is centering saddles. Just lay the rod in the "split" (if it's an ergonomic saddle), then rotate until it's parallel with the top tube.

Naw man, it's all about the P-handles. I already have a set of ball-end L wrenches that works very well for me (not bondhus, just what was included in my Nashbar Essential kit). T-Handles I don't want. P-handles are ideal, as they have the ball-tip on the long end for quick low-torque use, and the straight hex-tip on the handle end so you can use the the long end for big torque.

Exactly...

Sorry, can't think of any worthless tools.

My most annoying tool is the Park Tool Campagnolo cassette tool. It needs a 1 inch wrench! So I got a Sears 1 inch to 1/2 socket. Then it slipped off the first time, half mangling the teeth. So I had to remove the quick release, apply the cassette tool, then put the quick release back on over the tool to hold it down. Grrr.



I got a Crombie cassette tool, and it's so easy. Leave the quick release on the wheel! A moderate pull on the Crombie is just about the right torque for the cassette. I'll switch cassettes just for one ride, it's so fast.



5 sets of Hex wrenches
I like my Park Y wrench, and use it often when there's room for it.
But I also have:
a set of loose L wrenches, for tight spaces.
a folding set of wrenches--but why can't they make these so the wrench arms won't flop all over?
And a set of hex bits for my small torque wrench

and
screwdriver handled wrenches in 3,4,5 mm sizes. These are great for assembly or disassembly, it's fast to spin the bolt in this way, and easier to get the bolts started correctly. But I usually need another wrench to do the final tightening.
similar to:

The Shimano one is the same. I usually use the QR skewer to keep it in place, and then tighten it with my Torque wrench and this deep socket:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2294-...rch_detailpage

Slightly cheaper than buying a $50 tool to do this job.

Or, you know, just use a Crescent wrench.

The 7 mm allen head piece that came with my set? I can't even use it on my corolla.

Maybe it's the Corolla that's useless and worthless...

Campagnolo used 7mm hex wrench sockets on crank bolts for a short period.

Yeah, and they required a 3.5 mm hex for their Delta brakes. Got one of those?

I've got a FSA afterburner crankset/bottom-bracket that requires a 7mm. The only one I have is a little cap that fits on top of a 6mm allen, it's from my Nashbar Woody multitool. To torque that thing up hard like it needs, I put the cap on my 6mm L-wrench, which is about 3-4 inches long, and put the handle of my car jack over that. That gives me like an 18" lever to work with.