I using hollowgram crank with BB30 on a carbon synapse.
The BB creaking use to be only when standing. Now it appears while sitting and pushing hard on the pedals.
It is much worst when standing.
The crank turns smoothly and freely when rotated w/o the chain.
I don't have the proper crank extractor at the moment, and I'm a bit concerned regarding using make-shift crank pullers in fear of stripping the threads.
Any suggestions apart from disassembly.
YannisG

If this were myself I would end the problem entirely. Get a Shimano crank, ultegra can be had pretty nice price and the get the Praxis Conversion Bottom bracket. Google this to get to the website see what I am taking about. It will end the creaking for good and you will have a better crank. I don't what I will do if we cannot get threaded standard BB. I guess I go praxis but what a joke in the industry for press fit.

For the average rider what easy maintenance and reliable stuff nothing better.

Bearing seat in the frame and Spindle passing thru the BB , bearing ID may get sloppy ..

Loc Tite makes a compound for filling in gaps around cartridge bearings for Industry..

It takes dis assembly ..

Maybe your pedals are the creaking sound source?, Buy new ones and see if you stop it.

or just live with it.

Thanks for responding.
I definitely agree with you on threaded BB. Unfortunately the bike came with BB30.
Even brand new there was slight creaking, but now it's much worst and annoying.
I have Holowtech on all my other bikes, and there replacement is a breeze.
My pedals are quite new. They occasionally squeak, but don't creak.
Between the creaks and the squeaks many heads turn.
YannisG

FWIW -- BB30 is a poorly conceived design and is prone to creaking. I'd say they all creak eventually but I'm sure that even if most do, at least some probably don't.

If you do an internet search for BB30 problems, or BB30 creaking, or similar, you'll find plenty of links, some from here on BF, both describing the problem and listing some fixes.

Good luck.

I experienced the same thing a few years ago: BB30 on a Synapse, creaking noise when excessive pressure applied.

I'll now contradict what I posted in another BB thread just a few days ago (there I said "take it to the LBS"). Maybe I was feeling more adventurous, had more time, whatever, a few years ago.

I did some research and bought a 10mm(?don't remember?) allen wrench to remove the crank and see what was inside (adopting the the learn-as-I-go method). I put the wrench in and started to loosen. Hmmm ... I was expecting to have to put out some heavy force to loosen it, but it started moving VERY easily. Since it didn't creak when new, maybe it wasn't tightened properly to start with, and came loose over time? So, I decided to TIGHTEN it and see if it had any effect.

A few seconds to tighten it; a few minutes to change into some more appropriate clothing. Hopped on the bike and got out of the saddle. No creaking! Been that way even since. That was the only time I used that wrench (which cost me something like $10-$15, as I recall), but it was well worth it. I still have the wrench, and if the creaking ever returns, you know what my first fix attempt will be ...

Sigh. BB30. A solution in search of a problem. That said...

JohnnyCyclist is on to something. A VERY common error is that shops don't tighten the left crank arm enough. That needs to be tightened a LOT, which, if overlooked, can lead to creaking due to slight play in the interference fit.

Otherwise, standard advice of clean, new bearings, Loctite 609.

If that doesn't work, a Praxis adapter, or the FSA permanently installed threaded sleeve.

Thanks for the info.
I decided to bite the bullet and remove both crank arms.
I use the octalink crank puller with a crank bolt washer that was mentioned on the web since I don't have the Cannondale tool.
However, a word of caution here since the thread engagement on the crank arm is minimum you can easily strip the crank arm threads.
Maybe you could grind down the washer a few tenths of a mm to gain more threads, but I didn't have any problems removing both crank arms in this manner.
The BB axle turned freely with no rough points so I'm not removing the brgs.
I noticed that the chain ring bolts were snug, but not tight. So this might have added to the creaking.
YannisG

Happened to me a few months ago. I removed my crank to swap out my inner chainring and did not tighten the 10mm bolt tight enough. After a few rides it would loosen up on me and seemed like my crank warbled a bit; just didn't seem right. Sure enough, tighted the crank to its spec (~430 in-lbs >>> translates to about 35 ft-lbs) and haven't had a problem since. 35 ft-lbs is quite a lot so tightening with a hand wrench will take some effort. I was surprised when tightening it with my car's 1/2" drive torque wrench with the amount of effort it took. Crank away...

Thanks for the response.
When you loosened the 10mm crank bolt where you able to remove the crank arm w/o using an extractor?
If that's the case your crank arm was really loose, and you were lucky there was no damage to the crank or spindle.
I have seen someone have to abandon a brevet in the middle of nowhere because the crank's 2 allen screws were not tightened correctly, and the crank was damaged beyond repair.
YannisG

So...yeah...

I'm not sure you know what BB30 is.

I have BB30 on my Cannondale, and hollowteck on my other bikes. I was just emphasizing how important it is to to tighten down the crank arms on whatever system you are using.
Didn't mean to confuse the issue.
YannisG