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Help Removing Crankset!

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Old 06-08-16 | 09:45 AM
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Help Removing Crankset!



OK, first off, I am completely brand new to working on bicycles and have never worked on a road bike. I am planning on building up a specialized frame I bought a little while ago. The crankset on there now came with the frame I bought and I cant figure out how to remove it.

What you see in the pictures is basically every angle I though would be important for someone here to help me identify it and remove it.

Important side note: That bolt hole you see in the side of one of the crank arms was damaged. The head of the bold broke off when I tried to remove it (i've never seen the head of a bolt break off with the screw portion still in). So in order to get the screw portion out I went to drill a hole in the middle and the screw portion fell into the middle of the crank set, completely detached from everything. So now the bolt is out but the crank arms won't budge and the crankset operates normally.

If anyone can please provide some guidance that would be greatly appreciated. I have the BIKEHAND complete tool kit, plus regular tools you would expect most homeowners to have. The tool kit link is below.
https://www.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Comp...=1&*entries*=0

Thanks for the help
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Old 06-08-16 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ragebiker
Important side note: That bolt hole you see in the side of one of the crank arms was damaged. The head of the bold broke off when I tried to remove it (i've never seen the head of a bolt break off with the screw portion still in). So in order to get the screw portion out I went to drill a hole in the middle and the screw portion fell into the middle of the crank set, completely detached from everything. So now the bolt is out but the crank arms won't budge and the crankset operates normally.
Hmm. That could be a problem. But let me ask, why do you need to remove the crank? Are you wanting to install a different one?

If anyone can please provide some guidance that would be greatly appreciated. I have the BIKEHAND complete tool kit
Here are the factory service instructions; you will need a Torx wrench which is not in your kit: https://service.specialized.com/colla...0039594_R1.pdf
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Old 06-08-16 | 10:14 AM
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Once the current crankset is removed I am going to repaint and upgrade with a new groupset so getting this last piece of off is very important. It seems as if that bolt that I removed wouldn't have done anything even it it was removed normally, the crank does not come apart like I see in various youtube videos on the subject.
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Old 06-08-16 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ragebiker
Important side note: That bolt hole you see in the side of one of the crank arms was damaged. The head of the bold broke off when I tried to remove it (i've never seen the head of a bolt break off with the screw portion still in). So in order to get the screw portion out I went to drill a hole in the middle and the screw portion fell into the middle of the crank set, completely detached from everything. So now the bolt is out but the crank arms won't budge and the crankset operates normally
That's a major point, not a side note. Since you drilled, there's no way for us to tell what's still intact, holding the whole thing together. It may be a challenge to figure out what's still in there, and even more so to get purchase on it to turn and remove.

Specialized has assembly instructions and diagrams online. It might've been more helpful to check them before starting this job or resorting to drilling, but now that we're at that point, they may help you visualize how things are put together so you can figure out how to proceed. I think THIS might be the one for your crankset. You may notice in step 2, in bold print, that the allen bolt is reverse threaded. (Or is it the nut? I'm not sure.) Might explain why it sheared from being forced counter-clockwise.

Bolt heads do occasionally shear. It's often from overtightening (which can include turning the wrong way in an attempt to remove) or trying to free a bolt that's stuck from corrosion. My worst mechanical @#$% moment ever came when I was replacing struts on my car and the pinch bolt on the steering knuckle sheared while I was trying to remove it. THAT SUCKED.

Last edited by SkyDog75; 06-08-16 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 06-08-16 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by techsensei
Hmm. That could be a problem. But let me ask, why do you need to remove the crank? Are you wanting to install a different one?



Here are the factory service instructions; you will need a Torx wrench which is not in your kit: https://service.specialized.com/colla...0039594_R1.pdf

It seems after looking at the factory instructions that the only thing I removed was object 10, the Drive-side crank arm cover screw. Which make sense as to why nothing can be removed. This guide will be extremely helpful. Now I just need to purchase a T40 Torx Key. I'm assuming my local bike store/mechanic will have that for sale?
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Old 06-08-16 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ragebiker
I just need to purchase a T40 Torx Key. I'm assuming my local bike store/mechanic will have that for sale?
I suspect not, but you can get one at Sears/Home Depot/Lowes.
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Old 06-08-16 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by SkyDog75
That's a major point, not a side note. Since you drilled, there's no way for us to tell what's still intact, holding the whole thing together. It may be a challenge to figure out what's still in there, and even more so to get purchase on it to turn and remove.

Specialized has assembly instructions and diagrams online. It might've been more helpful to check them before starting this job or resorting to drilling, but now that we're at that point, they may help you visualize how things are put together so you can figure out how to proceed. I think THIS might be the one for your crankset. You may notice in step 2, in bold print, that the allen bolt is reverse threaded. (Or is it the nut? I'm not sure.) Might explain why it sheared from being forced counter-clockwise.

Bolt heads do occasionally shear. It's often from overtightening (which can include turning the wrong way in an attempt to remove) or trying to free a bolt that's stuck from corrosion. My worst mechanical @#$% moment ever came when I was replacing struts on my car and the pinch bolt on the steering knuckle sheared while I was trying to remove it. THAT SUCKED.
Actually after looking at the diagram I am pretty sure that what I drilled has no effect on the overall crankset. Actually, what you said about it being reverse threaded makes a ton of sense as well since when I drilled forward, the screw came right out (the opposite direction of taking the screw out). I never actually drilled a hole into anything, the motion of the drill bit unscrewed the Drive-crank arm cover screw, which revealed the inner workings which I believe, based on the diagram, i'll need a T40 Torx wrench to get lose. So luckily I didn't do any damage to any of the parts and once I get the key set maybe I'll be at step 2 with no more hic-ups. Thanks for the info.
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Old 06-08-16 | 11:53 AM
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Put the drill down and slowly step back from the bike.....
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Old 06-08-16 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by techsensei
I suspect not, but you can get one at Sears/Home Depot/Lowes.
Even Harbor Freight.....
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Old 06-08-16 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ragebiker
. Now I just need to purchase a T40 Torx Key. I'm assuming my local bike store/mechanic will have that for sale?
Originally Posted by techsensei
I suspect not, but you can get one at Sears/Home Depot/Lowes.
Originally Posted by AlexCyclistRoch
Even Harbor Freight.....
Or any real hardware store. If it were me, I'd use the telephone and call around rather than drive around. Torx aren't rare tools, but not as common as socket wrenches or hex keys.

PS to OP: in the future, simply do a web search for the part you're trying to deal with before you start twisting bolts and drilling things. Almost everything on a bike has an online manual at the manufacturer's website, or generic-enough instructions at Park, Sheldon Brown or Youtube.
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Old 06-08-16 | 05:52 PM
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Got many pawn shops around? One of the local ones buys tool boxes all the time, and just dumps any non-complete sets into buckets sorted by: metric/SAE sockets, standard (flat/phillips) screwdrivers, anything else with a screwdriver handle, metric/SAE normal (open/box) wrenches, and specialty wrench-like things. Most are $2 each, some $1 each. Dig for good brands if you care that much. Occasionally when you go looking for a 10mm deep socket you walk out with a $2 Snap On instead of buying a whole set of JobSmart ones for $25. I've even found cone, pedal and headset wrenches in there for $1 each from time to time.
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