I purchased on older Norco CCX-2 Cyclocross bike. The drive train is Sora 9 speed,compact 48/34 crank, 11- 25 Cassette and Tiagra derailler. I live in a hilly area and I am finding the bike does not have sufficient low gearing.

I am thinking adding a Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M592, a 9 speed cassette 12-36 preferrably or a 11-34 and a new chain.

While this solution is not weight friendly I cannot see why it should not be a workable solution. The bike will get relatively low usage ie rail trails, back roads and one event every year (Paris to Ancaster 70km race)

Is this a workable solution? Are there any other workable solutions to make this a more hill friendly bike?

Thanks in advance for your opinions

Bob

Sounds like a plan. I've done something similar before. The weight is insignificant compared to having the right gears.

11-25 is a pretty tight cassette. If you were to bring your bike to me looking for an easier hill climb gear, the first thing that I would suggest would be a wider range cassette with whatever rear derailleur it would take to make it work.

+++

The 9 speed 36 cog cassette is a bit of a boat anchor. I think I'd go with the SLX 11-34 - the largest 3 gears are on a alloy carrier and a 34 with a 34 up front should work for almost anything.

We have the 9 speed 12-36 on our tandem for a stump pulling gear (28 tooth front). It has so much torque I fear we are going to rip it off of the rear wheel on some bigger hills.

The weight difference between cassettes will have no appreciable effect on your speed.

True, but then again why weigh down good wheels - and that attitude ends up with steel rims and 39 lb bikes.

34t is as low as you can go on a 110 bcd compact crank, without replacing it.

so, lowering gear range with a bigger large cog cassette is your only hope.


Except of course a Hybridized IGH/cassette rear wheel, then there is a triple
inside the rear hub so the chainring/rear cog combination passes through
a planetary reduction gear in the hub. (in low, 3rd is an overdrive gear)

the hub-shell is turning more frequently than the cassette driver.. 0.75:1

(Its not weightless either)



//

Okay, increasing the weight of your bike to 39lbs WILL have an appreciable effect on speed and climbing effort. Still better than weight weenies with only one bottle cage.

Same here - I added a 9 speed 11-32 MTB cassette and Deore XT (XT because I had it on hand, otherwise I'd have bought a cheaper one) RD to my wife's bike and she loves the gearing.... and hers is a triple with a 30t small ring! It works perfectly. The weight difference is really insignificant; I doubt you'll add more than a few ounces.

I'd look into something with a 32 -- a 34 in the front and a 32 in the rear can get you up a lot. It's what I climbed 11-12% on with a healing broken ankle and two torn ligaments, fresh off the couch for 2 months. If you can fit a x-34 in the back then do it...but the difference between a 25 and a 32 in the rear is insane. The difference between a 28 and a 32 in the rear is insane.

+1 Assuming HG50 type casette, it should be available in 11-30 or 11-32. Maybe the 11-30 might be enough. Might also need a longer cage rear derailleur and longer chain.

I just recently went from a 11-28 to a 12-32 and the difference was amazing. I was always able to power over all of the climbs with the 34-28 but having a 34-32 really helped me maintain a cadence that prevented sore knees. The 12-32 cassette worked with my short cage 105 RD, although Shimano lists a 30 as being the largest cassette that RD is compatible with. I bought the cassette first and tried it with my RD figuring that if it didn't I'd use a MTB RD but since it did I was able to save that extra money.

An 11-32 or 34 cassette is definitely the way to go. I recently built up an old Specialized Sequoia sport touring frame, with a Stronglight 50-34 compact crank, Deore XT rear derailleur and an 11-32 cassette. It shifts well and the gearing can get almost as low as my touring bikes with triple cranks. I recently rode for a week in southern Wisconsin with some very hilly roads and had no trouble getting up steepest hills sitting down.

Everyone's needs are as different as their bodies. That said, I've discovered I really don't
need an 11 or 12 tooth. My highest is a 15. What you say? Well here's the thing, there
are an awful lot a hills around here. It is for me easier & more sustainable to maintain a slightly
higher cadence than to grind my way into a hill & shift a the last moment. I'm not a racer;
I just want to get where I'm going with minimal struggle. I favor old 2 x 5 10 spds, pretty
hard to cross-chain one. Technology can be overrated. I often think it's really about marketing.

P.S. Nice ride, Tarwheel

the 110 bcd Schlumpf Mountain drive, with a 34t, acts like its 13.6t when the reduction gear is kicked in.

I use one on my Brompton with a 54t, there, low is a '21.6t'