Rim with 1-2mm vertical wobble.. fixable?
I just wanted to get some opinions from the people here on this, as i've gotten conflicting reports from a few LBSes.
My rear wheel (XT rear hub, DT Revolution spokes, alloy nipples, Mavic SUP 217 rim) has a vertical wobble. On a certain point, the rim bobs 'up' maybe 1.5mm. I took it to one LBS, which was pretty ghetto (ie. they only stocked cheap BMX bikes and sub $400 hybrids etc). Anyway, the guy there tinkered with it for maybe 20 minutes until he told me that some of the spoke nipples were stuck, and he'd have to replace some spokes, but he didn't have any of the right type (they only had straight guage generics). But he evidently thought the wheel was fixable. So i took it to a better shop that my friend recommended. They didn't look at it for more than 0.5 seconds before the guy said 'vertical wobble, you need a new wheel'. I was pretty surprised, so he was like 'don't believe me huh? Hey joe, this wheel needs to be rebuilt with a new rim right?' The mechanic looks up, grunts, nods, and goes back to whatever he was doing. Anyway, i stop by one more bike shop. This one has a lot of high end stuff but their 'repair' corner is pretty minimal. Just one stand and a few tools. I ask the guy there, he looks at the wheel for a couple seconds and says 'we can fix that.. it just needs to be trued'. I say 'but it has a vertical wobble.. isn't that bad?' and he looks at me totally blank. 'It just needs to be trued' he repeats. Soo... any suggestions from experienced wheelbuilders? Is a vertical wobble a terminal illness for a rim? Was the second shop playing me for a fool? Thanks, robin |
Originally Posted by robo
IThey didn't look at it for more than 0.5 seconds before the guy said 'vertical wobble, you need a new wheel'.
I would say a 1mm to 1.5mm flat-spot or bump is NOTHING for even a beginner wheel builder! |
Originally Posted by robo
Soo... any suggestions from experienced wheelbuilders? Is a vertical wobble a terminal illness for a rim? Was the second shop playing me for a fool?
(BTW, check that the bump isn't due to the tire: sometimes a tire isn't all the way seated, and so there appears to be an out of true rim but it's really just the bead of the tire.) |
Thanks. Looks like i'll be trying to get the rim trued, rather than replaced. Phew! Glad i asked. I was ready to shell out the $90 the 2nd shop wanted to rebuild the wheel (with a cheap rim and straight gauge spokes no less)
|
Originally Posted by robo
Thanks. Looks like i'll be trying to get the rim trued, rather than replaced. Phew! Glad i asked. I was ready to shell out the $90 the 2nd shop wanted to rebuild the wheel (with a cheap rim and straight gauge spokes no less)
Basic wheel truing is straightforward, though rather time consuming until you've had some practice. You could buy a $5 spoke wrench and fix this yourself in maybe 1 hour, even if you've never done it before. |
1 - 2mm is nothing. As long as your spokes and nipples are in good shape, it's a breeze.
PS - It's rare for me to see a well-used MTB wheel that isn't out of round by 1mm after a tough day- and those guys don't throw their wheels away after every ride!!! |
Brand new rims can have 1-2 mm wobbles in them. Don't go to that shop anymore. BTW, Are you sure you have DT Revolution spokes on your rear wheel? They are ok on the non-drive side, but I don't recommend them on the drive side of the wheel.
|
Yeah, i had the wheel built by Supergo a few years back, and specified the parts. I didn't know about not using thin spokes on the drive side.. i just wanted the lightest stuff (heh... i was 16 at the time)..
Incidentally, i just called another shop, Toga Bikes on the west side which is apparently a major shop, and over the phone the guy said that with a 1-2mm vertical 'hop' (as they called it), they might or might not be able to fix it, and i'd have to bring it in... |
hop is easy to fix. any novice wheel builder should be able to fix this in 10 minutes at a dollar a minute.
|
Originally Posted by robo
Yeah, i had the wheel built by Supergo a few years back, and specified the parts. I didn't know about not using thin spokes on the drive side.. i just wanted the lightest stuff (heh... i was 16 at the time)..
Incidentally, i just called another shop, Toga Bikes on the west side which is apparently a major shop, and over the phone the guy said that with a 1-2mm vertical 'hop' (as they called it), they might or might not be able to fix it, and i'd have to bring it in... |
If the spokes are evenly tensioned i'd be tempted just to leave it, but then I'm a bum.
|
Originally Posted by dooley
If the spokes are evenly tensioned i'd be tempted just to leave it, but then I'm a bum.
|
Without seeing the wheel I would guess that the rim needs to be "adjusted" with 2 blocks of wood and a rubber mallet, then trued radially and laterally. If the rim has a flat spot it will need to be rounded out before truing, otherwise truing will result in uneven tension and future problems. Check for cracks in the rim around the spoke holes before spending any money on the wheel. If you don't have any cracks it is probably worth repairing.
Al |
Thanks. I'm going to try out Toga bikes tomorrow morning, since i have a free day. If they give me any crap, i'm going to say 'But the guys at bikeforums.net said...' ;)
|
Heh. this is starting to get funny. Toga Bikes said that the wheel is unfixable, not because of the hop, but because one of the alloy spoke nipples is seized to the steel grommet in the rim.
every shop gives a different reason... i think i'm just going to give up and buy a new wheel online! |
Originally Posted by robo
Heh. this is starting to get funny. Toga Bikes said that the wheel is unfixable, not because of the hop, but because one of the alloy spoke nipples is seized to the steel grommet in the rim.
every shop gives a different reason... i think i'm just going to give up and buy a new wheel online! You must have some seriously incompetent shops. Besides, I don't think a 1-2 mm hop is a enough to warrant throwing out a wheel... but if you do, do you have any plans for that XT hub? :D |
Too bad you aren't near me, I'd fix it in about 10 seconds... when I rebuilt the wheel on my freeride bike after the crappy factory build went out on the first ride, I was getting probably 3-4mm hops out of the wheel, and its been perfect since. If a nipple is seized, soak it in penetrating oil/chain lube, whatever and then gently apply pressure to the spoke wrench (preferably using one with a 4 sided head to avoid rounding) until it snaps free. They are probably afraid of ripping out the eyelet, but I don't think I have ever had that happen.
|
Originally Posted by robo
Heh. this is starting to get funny. Toga Bikes said that the wheel is unfixable, not because of the hop, but because one of the alloy spoke nipples is seized to the steel grommet in the rim.
every shop gives a different reason... i think i'm just going to give up and buy a new wheel online! Or do it yourself as people suggests :) |
I'm going to try one more bike shop then... I've heard some good things about Treads in Inwood in another thread..
It's weird though. Most shops charge $20 to true a wheel. Maybe they just don't think it's worth the work for the $20 if it needs more than a few twists of a spoke wrench? |
Could be, but a 2mm hop should only be a few twists. Its not something that would require tensioning the whole wheel or something like that.
|
^^ Right, but as soon as they come across a stuck nipple or something, maybe they're just like 'Not worth it, we can just sell this sucker a new wheel'?
|
Originally Posted by robo
I'm going to try one more bike shop then... I've heard some good things about Treads in Inwood in another thread..
It's weird though. Most shops charge $20 to true a wheel. Maybe they just don't think it's worth the work for the $20 if it needs more than a few twists of a spoke wrench? |
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:50 AM. |
Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.