replace front forks?

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08-01-16 | 05:17 AM
  #1  
heres my older guffy hybrid I'm gonna turn it into a singlespeed and would like to take front suspension off and go with regular forks .will any ol set fit this frame? if so is there a place online that sells inexpensive front forks.


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08-01-16 | 06:30 AM
  #2  
One source: Mountain Bike Forks | Road Bike Forks | Bike Nashbar

Another: 1" Threaded Bicycle Forks | eBay

Note that the fork will need to have similar type of brake mount unless you plan to change brakes. You will need to
measure your fork diameter at the top of the head tube where the nuts holding it on the bike are. It will probably
be a nominal 1". Be aware that you will lose the ~4" of space between the top of the tire and the bottom of the
fork, so the front of the bike will be that much lower than now which will pitch you forward a bit. Some of this can
be recaptured if you switch from threaded to threadless headset with the use of extenders. You already have a lot
of rise in the stem so getting more won't be an option.
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08-01-16 | 07:38 AM
  #3  
I don't often say this but for a bike that isn't worth much and is at least a size too small for you this doesn't seem like a worthwhile investment. For the money you'll spend on this conversion even using cheap parts (fork, brake levers, crank, freewheel, chain, etc.), you can likely find an entire bike ready to ride.

$200 new: https://www.citygrounds.com/products...srCBoCy4Xw_wcB
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08-01-16 | 09:23 AM
  #4  
Quote: heres my older guffy hybrid I'm gonna turn it into a singlespeed and would like to take front suspension off and go with regular forks .will any ol set fit this frame? if so is there a place online that sells inexpensive front forks.
Best source would probably be a bike co-op with lotsa forks in the $10-$15 range.

If you like the handling with existing fork, then get on the fork and have an assistant measure the Axle-to-Crown (ATC) distance. Or, if one-person operation is required, put a zip tie around a stanchion of the fork, push it down against a slider. Measure unloaded ATC, then get on bike, get off bike and subtract the amount the zip tie moved from the unloaded ATC measurement.

Next up will be steerer length and threaded length. You have to make sure that the steerer length is long enough to go to the locknut, then make sure that the threaded length goes down far enough to accommodate the top cone or cup.

Niagara has some pretty cheap forks. Unfortunately they don't mention Axle-to-Crown dimension on some, so you might have to call or just roll the dice.
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...?sort=priceasc
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08-02-16 | 05:56 AM
  #5  
Just buy a new bike like joejack said, it's seriously not worth the trouble of converting that much.
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08-06-16 | 04:14 PM
  #6  
thank you for the advice
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08-06-16 | 05:52 PM
  #7  
Issues you will need to consider; you will need to find a fork that puts your headtube at exactly the came height, with the same headtube angle, and the same for offset (sometimes called 'rake'), or else your handling will be awful. So, either you need a longer fork with oh, about 6" of dead space above the tire, or you need a super-long steerer with about 6" of spacers.
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08-07-16 | 04:47 AM
  #8  
Quote: Issues you will need to consider; you will need to find a fork that puts your headtube at exactly the came height, with the same headtube angle, and the same for offset (sometimes called 'rake'), or else your handling will be awful. So, either you need a longer fork with oh, about 6" of dead space above the tire, or you need a super-long steerer with about 6" of spacers.
A suspension-corrected fork won't have a ton of space between the fork crown and tire on a normally suspended (80-100mm) bike. Suspension sags when you put your weight on the bike lowering the front end substantially and this isn't a downhill bike with a 200mm travel fork. This is also a Huffy so how awful can the handling get?
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