Frame issue
#1
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Frame issue
I have been watching this area on my frame and it seems to have gotten a bit bigger in the last couple of months and I was wondering how much of an issue this will be in the future. The bike is a motobecane grand record from 2012. It is an aluminum frame which the spec sheet is 7005 AL.
#2
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
That's obviously serious corrosion on the cable stop and the paint is also damaged. Even the cable housing looks damaged. Where is your bike stored and did anything corrosive drip or splash on it? It doesn't look good.
#5
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
That's not fatigue, that's corrosion and perhaps your sweat guard isn't doing the job. Concentrated salt solutions (e.g. drying sweat) will cause that kind of corrosion on aluminum if it's not painted properly.
#7
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#9
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From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Motobecane Grand Record is an $800 Bikes Direct bike at best.
Personally, I would not even bother to sand it and would just look for another bike or frame.
That choice depends on each person's financial situation and time constraints.
Personally, I would not even bother to sand it and would just look for another bike or frame.
That choice depends on each person's financial situation and time constraints.
#10
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Since it is a rainy day I went ahead and sanded that area down. Paint came off real fast in pieces from that area and after a little more cleaning of it it looks like the frame it self is ok. Now to do a little more detailed sanding and then get some paint.
#11
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
It seems to be ok but go EASY with the sanding, those tube walls are thin. Get some primer intended for aluminum and prime the area before painting over it.
#12
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I am just going to do a bit around the cable stop since I didn't do much there to clean it up a little and then look for some primer later to today. Thanks for the information and looking at it.
#13
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From: Deep South
Bikes: Cannondale SR's and ST's from the '80's
Aluminum oxidation tends to bubble up like that but results in very little actual metal loss or pitting.
Clean as you have, prime with an aluminum primer and paint.
Sweat is the most likely culprit for that damage.
Clean as you have, prime with an aluminum primer and paint.
Sweat is the most likely culprit for that damage.
#15
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I'll bet there was a brass housing stop on the brake housing. Salt water, brass and aluminum do exactly what you saw. I'll bet also that the brass stop was near completely wasted away. I've spent years salt water sailing. On boats we take pains to see that bronze is used, not brass, that aluminum and bronze/brass do not touch and that important bronze fittings are protected by mechanically attaching a pies of sacrificial zinc which corrode away (like I presume your brass stop did) to protect the bronze.
The other approach is to keep salt water away. Not feasible in marine environments and not for everybody on a trainer.
Ben
The other approach is to keep salt water away. Not feasible in marine environments and not for everybody on a trainer.
Ben
#16
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From: Bristol, R. I.
Bikes: Specialized Secteur, old Peugeot
I'll bet there was a brass housing stop on the brake housing. Salt water, brass and aluminum do exactly what you saw. I'll bet also that the brass stop was near completely wasted away. I've spent years salt water sailing. On boats we take pains to see that bronze is used, not brass, that aluminum and bronze/brass do not touch and that important bronze fittings are protected by mechanically attaching a pies of sacrificial zinc which corrode away (like I presume your brass stop did) to protect the bronze.
The other approach is to keep salt water away. Not feasible in marine environments and not for everybody on a trainer.
Ben
The other approach is to keep salt water away. Not feasible in marine environments and not for everybody on a trainer.
Ben
#17
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
We see a lot of this kind of corrosion on AL frames at work. For some reason Cannondales are a fair number of the ones we do see (although some early carbon tubed Treks suffer in greater numbers too). I always attributed this to salt induced corrosion. This damage is almost always on the rear brake cable stops on the top tube, right where sweaty drips or legs will contact the stops/tube/cable. We auger out the stop (after sometimes having quite a hard time pulling the cable/casing out of the stop) with a 5mm allen wrench and coat the stop with grease. We then tell the customer of the problem and far more frequent maintenance is needed to avoid future problems. We have seen a few times enough stop damage to have strong concerns about it's ability to remain reliable. I replaced one top tube stop with a clamp around one (Backstop?) Andy.
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