I'm currently looking to buy some supplies for a upcoming tour.
I know very little about bike maintenance, so I don't want to buy the wrong things and waste my money.
My bike is a Masi Giramondo 700c. I was looking on the site and I couldn't find what kind of cables it uses. I havent yet bought the bike so I can't just physically check.
So what I'm asking is what cables should I buy for replacement brake and shifter cables?

You need some more knowledge without relying on the internet if you are Embarking on a Bike tour .
so you can be capable of fixing things in the middle of Nowhere.

have you considered reading some Books on Bike General Bike repair?

You could ride your bike into one of the Many Bike Shops in your City and the staff can show you more about your Bicycle ..




'/,

Unless one of us has the same bike or we do a search (since you neglected to provide a link to a spec page) how do we know?





But to give a sort of answer- The vast majority of drop bar levers use what's called a road brake cable (A or B) and the vast majority of straight bar levers use a mountain brake cable (C). Shimano and SRAM shifters usually use gear cable D and Campy uses E.


There are exceptions to this with older stuff (Huret) or aero stuff.


BTW here's that link to the specs (see how easy that is?) https://www.masibikes.com/bikes/adve...ondo-700c-2017


I'd be more concerned about spare spokes and brake pads then cables. Andy.

you do realise thats why im asking you guys, 7 months before my trip?

One other thing: it would be prudent to go with stainless steel cables, they are not much more and will
have a longer life span from a rust POV. Shifter cables usually break in the shifters where the stress and
turning radius is small. Brake cables OTOH, being larger in diameter and not subject to tight radius turns
may last years if they don't rust. Coated cables, coated to be more slippery inside the housing, tend to
shed their coats over months to a yr or so. You may have to read closely whether coated is stainless
or not.

Inspect them frequently, especially if the shifting has changed suddenly, and change then out at the first sign of fraying. Getting the broken-off cable head out of a brifter is exquisite torture.

You want to buy the spares before you buy the bike? Won't you have time to examine the bike after you get it and before you leave to match the spares? [clue: You will probably only need a maximum of one spare inner which your LBS stocks.]

Is this trip coming up in 7 months your planned trans-Canada tour? If so you really do need to read up on and get some hands-on experience with basic bicycle maintenance/repairs as well as some hands-on short tours experience before embarking on a trans-Canada tour. A good book can be an immense help. Otherwise you run a very real risk of running into major insurmountable problems that could spell the end of your trip and possible in the worst location for that to happen.

Cheers

please dont reply to anymore of my posts

.
...

You have a number of threads going about touring. One of those threads states that you plan to ride a bicycle across Canada. There are large expanses of Canada were a breakdown could leave you stranded for some time. This thread that you started to ask about brake cables shows that you do not have the experience or knowledge to safely ride across Canada. That's why some here, such as myself and fietsbob are recommending that you do some reading. Read a good book on bicycle repair/maintenance and also read up on touring by bicycle. On top of that you really do need to do some short tours long before you embark on a cross-country tour. And by long tours we don't mean an overnight or long weekend tour. If at all possible you should do a tour of a bout one week with all the stuff you plan to take cross country. that way you'll have afar better idea of what you need and the effort required to carry it.

Btw, how do you plan to get back to your starting point?

Cheers

Read this a few times-

https://staff.katyisd.org/sites/01013...%20handout.pdf

Nice looking bike.

So here are some specs-

• Shimano Deore crankset, 44/32/24t w/ sealed Shimano BB
• Shimano Deore 10spd front and rear derailleurs w/ Microshift barend shifters
• Shimano 11-34t, 10-spd cassette

Look here for some good info-


Bicycle Brake and Shift Cables from Harris Cyclery


Die-drawn stainless cables are smoother and shift better I think. Stainless keeps the rust away. They have less wear and tear on the inside of the housing. If you pack spares you could pre-cut them for length and save finding a cable cutter.



When you get your bike I would like to test-ride it around the neighborhood.

In my early 20's while I was in 'old blighty' on the obligatory antipodean OE, I decided to tour India on my rigid fork MTB(no shocks in them days) I had next to zero wrenching skills but for some reason I never even considered what could go wrong. From memory I took a few spokes and a puncture repair kit for a 6 month tour of duty, somehow I survived with the odd puncture... Read up on basic maintenance, have a go at changing cables tyres etc before you leave, then get on that bike and ride

Learn about repair first, then by tools and supplies. The odds of needing a shift cable on a bike less than a year old is next to zero, but it weighs almost nothing, so no great loss to carry one. Brake cable is even less likely to be a problem, but go ahead if you insist. I did a 5000 mile tour in '76 and indeed needed to replace a shift cable, but the bike was 4 years old with thousands of miles on it.

You may have found fietsbob's reply annoying but there is some very good advice in what he wrote. Don't be too dismissive of it.