I'm currently cleaning and rebuilding an older bike and I would like to be able to restore the hubs to their original finish. Is it feasible to rebuild the wheels with the original spokes, or will I be getting into metal fatigue problems? The wheels have campy hubs and mavic rims.

There is far l ess fatigue involved in loosening and then retensioning the spokes than they have experienced during their life. don't worry about that. Just make sure that you properly rebuild the wheel (spoke pattern, dish and tension) and be very careful about "restoring" the hub.

New hub - I'd replace the spokes as well.

Old hub, new rim - keeping old spokes is fine.

Not super important but it's better to keep the old inner spokes inside, outer spokes outside. Less stress on the elbows as they won't need to be re-shaped to fit the hub.

If it was my bike, I'd replace the spokes. You'll almost surely have trouble removing at least a few of the spokes and then you'll have to clean them up to match your spiffy looking hub and rim. May also be some wear at the crosses.

+1 to both previous post (Retro Grouch and Crankycrank).

The title is Can spokes be reused. The OP asked if it would be feasible and whether fatigue would be an issue. Although it is of course more reliable to use new spokes I stand by my answer. I did not go into detail but Cranky's point is a good one.

I've not had any issues reusing spokes, but I first inspect them for damage and discard those that have flaws. I look for abraded surfaces at the heads (chain damage) and at the crosses and unusual bends at the nipple and head ends. If you think you have to "bend it back" to make it work, then discard. As Crankycrank recommended, make sure you maintain the original orientation.

When I say discard, that does not mean that I through them out. Stainless spokes are useful for a variety of other reasons. Also, if you have a threading machine, you can always cut down a thread damaged spoke for a smaller wheel.

Thanks to all of you guys who offered your input. I will be using the same hubs and rims. I had planned on re-installing the spokes using the same cross pattern and making sure that all of the spokes were oriented (inside/outside flange) as they had been. The finished bike will most likely not be ridden much or maybe not at all. I'm restoring the bike for an old friend who rode it for years. It was his first really serious road bike. I suspect that it will end up on a nice stand in his living room, but if he decides to ride I want to make sure the wheels don't give trouble.
Again, thanks.
Bob

I've reused spokes when salvaging wheels from various "flip" bikes, where maybe one wheel had a bad hub and another a bad rim etc.
It can be a pain.
Much depends on the condition of the threads.
If they are quite corroded, you can't get a good sense of "feel" when tightening them up.
I'll wire brush the threads and use new nipples to reduce the "binding" as much as possible.

Sometimes, new $.40-.50 spokes are just easier to use and avoid a lot of frustration.

Used so You dont know how much older or the previous owner, Right?

If I need to replace a rim, and have a second Identical Rim, I reuse the spokes , without un lacing the pattern.

Just to keep my life simple ,

tape the new rim to the old one and un wind all the spokes equally and then Move them 1 by 1.

cannot you polish and clean that hub without tearing the wheel apart ? You going to do that every time it gets dirty?




'/,

Just make sure to use new nipples.

If you're using the same hub, rims, and spokes, why are you taking everything apart?

Best answer: "It depends".

Have I reused spokes? Yes.

Would I recommend it? Probably not.

I've reused spokes many times and never had a problem.
That said, I prefer to use new spokes on new wheels.

+1 Andy

Yes.

I was planning to polish the hubs. They're nice Campy hubs, but really dull. I will see what I can do with the wheel assembled, but I suspect that I'll need to remove the spokes to do a really good job. I may still buy new spokes, but that would add significantly to the cost of the project.
My friend bought the bike new and rode it for many years. He always wanted to restore it, but finally decided he'd never get around to doing it and just gave it to me.

Be careful to not polish through the anodizing. Andy

That's something I was wondering about. How do I know if the hub has a clear anodized finish? How much polishing will an anodized finish tolerate?
Also, I know that the quality of the aluminum the hub is made from will affect how well the finish will hold up against the elements if it's not anodized.
Any thoughts?

I would do no more then hand rag and paste polishing of any anodized bike part. One reason to have the anodize layer present and intact is that it is the better protective layer WRT corrosion goes. That it lends it's self to a pretty look is the icing on the cake.


Most companies that do anodize their parts will state that in a spec sheet or published form as it's a selling point. Back in the day it was general knowledge that Campy anodized their parts. It was not hard to look at the finish color and texture and know it was an anodized one, or not.


But as long as one cleans the parts and keeps then from corrosive elements (like sea water) bare polished AL can and does stay shinny for a long time. The issue is when said parts have nooks and crannies or otherwise inaccessible spots, like around spoke holes on hubs or between the arms of a brake caliper. Andy.

Sounds like good advice, Andy. I'll begin with normal cleaning with detergent and water, then polishing with a quality aluminum polishing compound like Meguires or Mothers. I'll let you know how it works.
Thanks again to all of you,
Bob