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Refreshing a Specialized Rockhopper 26

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Refreshing a Specialized Rockhopper 26

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Old 11-15-16 | 10:28 AM
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Refreshing a Specialized Rockhopper 26

Folks, please take it easy on me since I am brand spanking new to biking world.

I have recently picked up this one: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...l#post19193130

I am planning to do all basic maintenance or tune up which I can do for 'Free'. Means, all greasing/cleaning/lubing and all.

Few questions, I have:

1- How and where should I start? I want to disassemble and what should be the starting point?

2-I have a lot of car/motorcycle tools/sockets/wrenches and all but none bike specific tools. Where can I get them for cheap and which ones I absolutely need for 'THIS' bike(https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...ches&_sop=15)?

3-Are these tools going to be standard say if I continue with bike journey and work on other bikes too?

I am planning to start in the coming days/weeks and looking forward to your help and advice.

Thanks again.
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Old 11-15-16 | 12:49 PM
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having had a look at the original post in C&V, the first question (which I can't see as having been answered) is, does it fit? if not, walk away now. (from your height given @5'7" and the tiny frame, think it maybe too small)

From the look of the bike, it has some old and basic parts, you haven't said what your end game for the bike is, but as it looks, would try to avoid taking anything apart if it is currently working, as you may break parts which will need to be replaced (especially as you don't have the tools, and are looking at a cheap/zero budget)

For your specific questions -

1 - Park Tool website/Google, ask on here for specifics? For what to take apart -see above, if it ain't broke...

2 - Bikes are almost all metric, what are your car tools? from the look of the bike, you can do a lot of it with a metric spanner/socket set and a set of hex keys. Some specific tools will be needed for the BB/headset/Cones/freehub (although think is probably has a freewheel), see Q3

3 - Yes, no, maybe. As the bike is old (early 90's ish) things like hex keys are standard, if you need specific tools for just about anything else, it won't be usable on a 2016/7 bike as standards have changed many times since the 90's

Would budget(cost) everything you can with that bike, as thinking it could be come a money pit as you are starting with no tools/limited knowledge.

Last edited by jimc101; 11-15-16 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 11-15-16 | 02:40 PM
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Most bikes rely on a fairly standard set of metric tools, if your tools are for working on older American cars, they're pretty useless. If you have tools for modern cars then you should be fine for most stuff.

An older bike like that will probably need specific wrenches for the bottom bracket and maybe the cones. Of course, those standards have changed, and may specific tools you buy won't be useful on a new bike.
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Old 11-15-16 | 02:41 PM
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"Money pit" is one way of looking at it. "Knowledge mine" is another.

I agree that the bike is too small for you, but as I said in the other thread it's up to you if you are happy riding the bike. Just understand that when you get something else you should try something bigger.

You can do about 50% of all bike tasks with a 4-5-6 mm hex wrench like this:


If you have allen wrenches in these sizes, you can get by with those. Most of the other 50% requires some kind of special tool.

The nice thing about bikes is that they usually don't fail completely. Bicycle maintenance is usually a matter of getting things to work better or smoother. If you're willing to tolerate a lot of clunkiness, you can keep riding a bike that's in pretty bad shape.

Of course, if you put some things off too long it can do damage (mostly to bearing races). For instance, hubs that need to be cleaned and greased will eventually become hubs that need to be replaced, but if they are already hubs that need to be replaced you can ride on them as long as you don't mind the grinding feel.

The reason I mention this is that it allows you to acquire tools as needed and budget allows. I highly recommend putting off all tool purchases until you want to take on a task and are ready to spend the money on the tool. It sounds like you have general mechanical skills and are interested in getting to know your bike. Just understand that hardly anything is likely to be urgently needed.
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Old 11-15-16 | 09:23 PM
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If you can locate a local bike co-op you can tap into their resources of both tools and knowledge, and perhaps parts.
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Old 11-16-16 | 01:27 AM
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you'll want a couple hub bearing cone wrenches (EXTRA thin)... Park tool 13mm and 15 mm sizes... A QUALITY pair of side cutters to cut Cables and cable casings. i bought a pair of "special" cutters for the cables/casings, and TOSSED them into a drawer after the first use... You'll want a GOOD floor pump with a built in gauge to air up tires... Buy the correct type of wrenches for the Bottom Bracket cups, and get a Park tool Crank remover...... get the correct Freewheel or FreeHUB remover tool too, and IF you have a Cassette type freehub, then you'll need a chain whip too... get a good one because the "cheap" ones tend to break at the most inopportune times....

SPOKE WRENCHES... get a set of good ones, then plan on replacing the one you use the most often, or just go to a decent shop with a wheel, and they can fit up the CORRECT size for your spokes... there is VERY LITTLE difference between the 3.2, and 3.3mm sizes, and i've replaced many a rounded off nipple because the 3.3mm will KINDA work, right up to the point where it RUINS the smaller 3.2mm nipples... Park Red(3.3), and Park Green(3.2) ones are the most used in my tiny shop, btw...

Chain breaker... you'll want one... get the Park tool CT-5, or it's big brother... it works fine, and will outlast your bike by many years... IF you need one, they sell replacement pins for them, even! The cheapo ones from across the Pacific might just break the FIRST TIME you try to use it! Been there, had that happen many years ago... that's what i get for trying to save ten bucks, i guess.... sigh....

a decent set of metric allen wrenches will be a must, too... i use the ones with the ball end on the long side... handy for spinning screws in tight spots, like under the seat... that's a 6mm on almost all seat posts.... the 8mm will remove/tighten the crank bolts... and the 3 or 2.5 will come into use for twist shifter set screws... you probably already have a set of metric allens, though, eh?

Tire irons/spoons/levers... i use a REALLY dull #2 flat screw driver that i custom bent, and a decent METAL tire lever... DON'T bother with those cheesy plastic/nylon ones... they are just about worthless.

your other metric wrenches, and basic tools, will work for most all other needs...

Start with the wheels/ hubs, then work your way up... and typical Automotive grease is too thick, it won't flow back onto the bearing surfaces... get a tube of phil's or park grease... both are water-resistant, and formulated for bicycle use.

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Old 11-16-16 | 12:03 PM
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Thanks so much for your response and reply guys, I really appreciate it.

I have a lot of tools, sockets/allen/hex wrenches/wrenches and many more-all for modern cars. Nothing at all which is bike specific though.

For now, I am going to take care of the basic stuff. Cleaning/lubricating all parts which do not require any specific tools.


'maddog34' when you say wheel and hub, you mean greasing front and rear wheel/hubs?
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Old 11-16-16 | 12:12 PM
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There's one co-op close to me and they charge $15/hr and let me use their tools.

Does this sound fair, since I have no clue at all?
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Old 11-16-16 | 01:01 PM
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To me $15/hr sounds a bit high unless that includes a lot of hands on help. One local co-op here charge $5 per hour, but you can get a monthly membership for $20 and a yearly membership for $60 and I believe that includes advice from volunteer mechanics. Another offers free use of their tools but charges for hands on help.
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Old 11-16-16 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by maverickfhs
Thanks so much for your response and reply guys, I really appreciate it.

I have a lot of tools, sockets/allen/hex wrenches/wrenches and many more-all for modern cars. Nothing at all which is bike specific though.

For now, I am going to take care of the basic stuff. Cleaning/lubricating all parts which do not require any specific tools.


'maddog34' when you say wheel and hub, you mean greasing front and rear wheel/hubs?

yep.... that's the first thing i do on a revival... you'll NEED those two cone wrenches, the automotive thin wrenches are too thick to fit most bicycle bearing cones... and find the correct freewheel/ freehub remover, too. And i sand the brake tracks on aluminum rims too,,, makes for better braking, and more even wear pattern. I use 180 or 220 grit sandpaper.
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Old 12-09-16 | 10:40 AM
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Thanks guys. Sorry, I got sidetracked. So I cleaned up all the chain/sprockets and whole bike yesterday. Utilized kerosene for all chain and sprockets/grime cleaning.

In the front wheel, there seem to be a small wobbling not sure how to define it. If I hold the wheel from the wheel and try to shake, it makes a slight noise. Does it need to be tightened or greased or front brake can be loose and making that noise?

Also, rear the brake is sticking from the lever. What's the best way to clean/lube these cables and brakes?
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Old 12-09-16 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by maverickfhs
Thanks guys. Sorry, I got sidetracked. So I cleaned up all the chain/sprockets and whole bike yesterday. Utilized kerosene for all chain and sprockets/grime cleaning.

In the front wheel, there seem to be a small wobbling not sure how to define it. If I hold the wheel from the wheel and try to shake, it makes a slight noise. Does it need to be tightened or greased or front brake can be loose and making that noise?

Also, rear the brake is sticking from the lever. What's the best way to clean/lube these cables and brakes?
There are a lot of environmentally friendly cleaners out there, would avoid using any hydrocarbon ones if possible, as much to avoid skin contact as anything else.

For the bike, the wheel could be bearings/lack of grease in them, they are probably cup and cone, you would need cone wrenches for this, not sure where the front brake comes in to play with this.

For the rear brake levers, would undo the cables, if the issue is still there, you will know if it's an issue with the lever or cantilever, for the age of the bike, replacing the cables wouldn't be a bad idea anyway.
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Old 12-09-16 | 12:14 PM
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Lots of good advice on this thread. If you end up thinking that the bike doesn't fit properly, you can find another and sell this. The process of learning how to work on this bike will be helpful on your next bike if you do sell it and keeping this running properly if you don't. This is a really good bike to learn basic bicycle repair skills since the parts are bog standard and readily available.

Basic idea is to do a complete overhaul (grease does not get better with age) and replace all the consumables (chain, cables, ball bearings, etc.). You'll likely want to change out the tires and brake pads as well (try kool stop pads). At that point you'll have a bike in tip top mechanical condition.
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Old 12-09-16 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jimc101
There are a lot of environmentally friendly cleaners out there, would avoid using any hydrocarbon ones if possible, as much to avoid skin contact as anything else.

For the bike, the wheel could be bearings/lack of grease in them, they are probably cup and cone, you would need cone wrenches for this, not sure where the front brake comes in to play with this.

For the rear brake levers, would undo the cables, if the issue is still there, you will know if it's an issue with the lever or cantilever, for the age of the bike, replacing the cables wouldn't be a bad idea anyway.
Thanks very much. How should I undo the brake cable? Are there are any screws or hex bolts since I don't see any? Please bear with me, don't want to break anything on this old girl
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Old 12-09-16 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
Lots of good advice on this thread. If you end up thinking that the bike doesn't fit properly, you can find another and sell this. The process of learning how to work on this bike will be helpful on your next bike if you do sell it and keeping this running properly if you don't. This is a really good bike to learn basic bicycle repair skills since the parts are bog standard and readily available.

Basic idea is to do a complete overhaul (grease does not get better with age) and replace all the consumables (chain, cables, ball bearings, etc.). You'll likely want to change out the tires and brake pads as well (try kool stop pads). At that point you'll have a bike in tip top mechanical condition.
Thanks, so far I am going to follow the advice of Andy_K. I'll do every maintenance which I can which is not going to cost any money and then see how I'll like the bike and then take it from there.

Thanks again.
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Old 12-09-16 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by maverickfhs
Thanks, so far I am going to follow the advice of Andy_K. I'll do every maintenance which I can which is not going to cost any money and then see how I'll like the bike and then take it from there.

Thanks again.
You realize that this is the only poster to give you wrong advice, right?


. . . . Just kidding; have fun, and welcome to the club of bicycle cheapskates.
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Old 12-09-16 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
You realize that this is the only poster to give you wrong advice, right?


. . . . Just kidding; have fun, and welcome to the club of bicycle cheapskates.
Truthfully, you all are very helpful and 'good people'

Andy_K has been very patient and helpful and I truly appreciate it.

Thanks for calling me 'cheap', not the first time I am hearing it.
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