While I was truing my Bongrader rear wheel a nipple on a RS spoke split. I tried to remove the split nipple, but I was unsuccessful. Usually I can remove a rounded nipple, but this time the leftover part was too small to grab. So I cut the spoke assuming I had a spare, but I didn't.
I tried locating the spoke (290X2.3X1.0 bladed), but so far I haven't.
Instead I used temporarily a DT DB (1.5/1.6).
During the truing I needed to tighten this spoke slight more to true the wheel, but as I tried to tension the spoke it reached a point where the tension wouldn't increase neither would the rim move.
I suspect that the spoke had reached its elastic limit. So I left it as is which is good enough.
Any comments on using a different spoke on a wheel is appreciated.
YannisG

just get one of a similar length.. (my LBS deals with cycletourists with a broken spoke all summer long)

Bladed spokes Do let you hold onto the flat with a little crescent wrench, to resist wind up.
Trek Bontrager has some bladed wheels , so there is a notched tool to hold the blade..

but With plain round single gage spokes the de stressing can be dellt with.

I probably have to see your wheel to really do much
Do you grease or anti-sieze the threads on the spoke?

Using a spoke with a different section is OK, just so long as you don't rely on audible tone to match the tension to it's neighbors. The tone will be different at the same tension.

Thanks for responding. Boy that was quick!
Of course I use the tool to prevent spoke twist.
I tension relieved the wheel twice, but this particular spoke show the same behavior.
My question is whether the spoke was nearing its elastic range.
YannisG

That should be obvious.

I assume you meant a DT 15/16 GAUGE? That's 1.8/1.6MM.
I won't use thinner than 1.8MM on the DS because of the exact reason you are experiencing.

Thanks for responding.
After re-measuring the spoke the actual measurements are 1.5mm in the middle and 1.8 close to the nipple.
I should go to a thicker gauge to avoid this then?
YannisG