Is it safe to hack it off?
#1
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What's your Fetish, eh?
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Is it safe to hack it off?
ok, i got an American Classic Seatpost along with my buildkit. however, the length is way too long and they dont' have anything around 280-300mm lenght for me to trade with.
so now i have this 350mm alu. seatpost that i know for sure will be too long for me to use. so would it be safe to hack of what i don't need, as long as i keep the same lenght for the min. insertion mark?
so now i have this 350mm alu. seatpost that i know for sure will be too long for me to use. so would it be safe to hack of what i don't need, as long as i keep the same lenght for the min. insertion mark?
#4
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What's your Fetish, eh?
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From: S. San Jose, Cali
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i know if today if it was a carbon seatpost then i probably wouldn't hack it.. but given that it's alu. i don't see any integratity problems. so yup.. unless if that buyer comes through with the dough.. otherwise.. time to meet my SAW!
#8
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What's your Fetish, eh?
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ok.. not i just gotta find me a pipe cutter... probably my local home depot will have it right?
i need something like these right: PIPE CUTTER
i need something like these right: PIPE CUTTER
#9
Originally Posted by veneer
ok.. not i just gotta find me a pipe cutter... probably my local home depot will have it right?
i need something like these right: PIPE CUTTER
i need something like these right: PIPE CUTTER
#10
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the key is not really the minumum insertion mark. Many seatposts are marked for old style frames where the top of the seat tube lug is right next to the top of the top tube. But I have a compact style frame that has a significant length of seat tube protruding above the top of the top tube, maybe 3 inches or so.
What you want to do is make sure that the bottom of the cut seatpost protrudes below the bottom of the top tube inside the seat tube when clamped at the correct height for you.
This ensures that you get the structural benefit of the top tube and seat stay cluster in resisting the bending imposed by your body weight.
What you want to do is make sure that the bottom of the cut seatpost protrudes below the bottom of the top tube inside the seat tube when clamped at the correct height for you.
This ensures that you get the structural benefit of the top tube and seat stay cluster in resisting the bending imposed by your body weight.
#11
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From: East Alabama
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Don't breathe the aluminum dust. It's toxic.
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#12
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Originally Posted by Moonshot
Don't breathe the aluminum dust. It's toxic.
Explosive, too (really!).
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#13
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What's your Fetish, eh?
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From: S. San Jose, Cali
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yeah i got a hacksaw... but using a pipe cutter will be easier. perhaps my neighbor has it.. since he's in construction field.
i use the hacksaw for my alu. fork steerer.
i use the hacksaw for my alu. fork steerer.
#14
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What's your Fetish, eh?
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From: S. San Jose, Cali
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Originally Posted by vainamoinen
the key is not really the minumum insertion mark. Many seatposts are marked for old style frames where the top of the seat tube lug is right next to the top of the top tube. But I have a compact style frame that has a significant length of seat tube protruding above the top of the top tube, maybe 3 inches or so.
What you want to do is make sure that the bottom of the cut seatpost protrudes below the bottom of the top tube inside the seat tube when clamped at the correct height for you.
This ensures that you get the structural benefit of the top tube and seat stay cluster in resisting the bending imposed by your body weight.
What you want to do is make sure that the bottom of the cut seatpost protrudes below the bottom of the top tube inside the seat tube when clamped at the correct height for you.
This ensures that you get the structural benefit of the top tube and seat stay cluster in resisting the bending imposed by your body weight.
#15
the commutor / tourer
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From: jacksonville fl
Bikes: trek 6700 turned touring machine, giant TCR2
dude,
just so you know, it would take about 3 minutes with a fresh hacksaw blade to cut it. Forget the pipe cutter, and use what you have. throw it in a vice, mark your line all the way around it, and cut away. touch up with a file when completed. You could have done it in the amount of time that it took me to type this reply!!!
just so you know, it would take about 3 minutes with a fresh hacksaw blade to cut it. Forget the pipe cutter, and use what you have. throw it in a vice, mark your line all the way around it, and cut away. touch up with a file when completed. You could have done it in the amount of time that it took me to type this reply!!!
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#17
actually i was refering to using a cheap hose type clamp just to keep the hacksaw blade straight. i don't even bother with that, just hack away, but it always comes out a little crooked without a guide.
a pipe cutter would be the primo way but it's overkill to buy one. you could always have em do it at the hardware store. they'd prob. do it for free.
a pipe cutter would be the primo way but it's overkill to buy one. you could always have em do it at the hardware store. they'd prob. do it for free.





