Roll yer own?
#1
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Roll yer own?
How many of ya'll have built your own wheels?
I'm contemplating lacing my own wheels, am I nuts?
(well, yeah. but thats besides the point).
I've just bought campy 8 hubs, NOS mavic CD4 rims and
I thought I might give it a try. From everything I've read
it doesn't look too difficult, what am I missing?
Thanks,
Marty
I'm contemplating lacing my own wheels, am I nuts?
(well, yeah. but thats besides the point).
I've just bought campy 8 hubs, NOS mavic CD4 rims and
I thought I might give it a try. From everything I've read
it doesn't look too difficult, what am I missing?
Thanks,
Marty
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#2
Just Pedal
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It is not difficult. You need a dishing tool, a good spoke wrench, some prior knowledge of wheels like truing, dishing, etc. , a truing stand would be good, and about 2 to 2 1/2 hours a wheel when you first start. Have fun!
#3
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I've build a couple. The lacing isn't too difficult as long as you are careful and methodical.
I'd say that the tricky part is determining when you have enough tension. If it is too low, the wheel will tend to go out of true and spokes may fail prematurely.
Don't forget to check out Sheldon Brown's page on wheelbuilding. If you are looking for a book I'll put in a plug for The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt.
I'd say that the tricky part is determining when you have enough tension. If it is too low, the wheel will tend to go out of true and spokes may fail prematurely.
Don't forget to check out Sheldon Brown's page on wheelbuilding. If you are looking for a book I'll put in a plug for The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt.
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I definitely would recommend Brandt's book. Also, that Sloane book, recommended by Mike is excellent. I used it when building my first wheel and it stayed true for two years before an altercation with an auto kind of bolixed it.
There are several sites on the web also. look under bicycles, wheel building.
Getting the right spoke length is very critical, but there are web sites for that too.
All in all, it's fun! You'll enjoy it. Take your time and follow the directions step by step and you probably won't go wrong.
There are several sites on the web also. look under bicycles, wheel building.
Getting the right spoke length is very critical, but there are web sites for that too.
All in all, it's fun! You'll enjoy it. Take your time and follow the directions step by step and you probably won't go wrong.
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ljbike
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I built two wheels last year..
Dont laugh, ut I found two wheels in the garbage...
not mine...
ok I found 3, one had no problems at all, and its in use today...
but back to the wheels I built...
I used the Bicycle Wheel by Brandt too, its a good book!
Both wheels are super, Ive been using them for XC racing and they are as true as when I built them!
(also they've survived several road rides, and several runs on the road at 65kmph +)
And trust me, if I can do it, you can...
just search the spoke length using spoke calc spread sheet available on the net.... and consult your LBS, they should be able to reccommend some tips to help you.
Dont laugh, ut I found two wheels in the garbage...
not mine...
ok I found 3, one had no problems at all, and its in use today...
but back to the wheels I built...
I used the Bicycle Wheel by Brandt too, its a good book!
Both wheels are super, Ive been using them for XC racing and they are as true as when I built them!
(also they've survived several road rides, and several runs on the road at 65kmph +)
And trust me, if I can do it, you can...
just search the spoke length using spoke calc spread sheet available on the net.... and consult your LBS, they should be able to reccommend some tips to help you.
#6
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If you are reasonably mechanically adept, go for it! If your frame is true, you do not need a dishing tool (I have never owned one, although I did use one when I worked at Bikecology/Supergo) -- just flip the rear wheel around and make sure the rim remains centered.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#7
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Lacing wheels is simple, just takes time especially when you do your first pair. Because of my riding style, the trails we ride and my weight I would trash rear hubs frequently so I started building my own wheels. As mentioned above, make sure you get the tension tight enough(I learned first hand why). Good luck, the first time can get a bit frustrating.
Sliante
Sliante
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if you have an older hub with a 6 speed freehub with a 6speed cassette on it, can you change the freehub to a newer one so it can take 8/9 speed or do you need to replace the whole hub
#9
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Brian,
My understanding is that the 6 speeds were 126mm and the
8/9 speed stuff is 130mm.
Of course I could be wrong (probably, almost definately!)
I've never seen 6 speed cassette, I thought they were
all Freewheels not Freehubs.
Marty
My understanding is that the 6 speeds were 126mm and the
8/9 speed stuff is 130mm.
Of course I could be wrong (probably, almost definately!)
I've never seen 6 speed cassette, I thought they were
all Freewheels not Freehubs.
Marty
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#10
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Originally posted by WorldIRC
if you have an older hub with a 6 speed freehub with a 6speed cassette on it, can you change the freehub to a newer one so it can take 8/9 speed or do you need to replace the whole hub
if you have an older hub with a 6 speed freehub with a 6speed cassette on it, can you change the freehub to a newer one so it can take 8/9 speed or do you need to replace the whole hub
#11
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ok it was just a thot.. prolly wont happen on this bike tho.. its cheaper and easier to just buy a new bike at the appropriate time. right my money is still going to my mountain bike as i compete
i bought the road bike to mainly practice my endurance for long distance. thats why i spent 400bux and not 4000bux. you can see where im getting at..
i bought the road bike to mainly practice my endurance for long distance. thats why i spent 400bux and not 4000bux. you can see where im getting at..
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I also use my road bike to practice climbing. Otherwise, Im not really a fan or road bikes. I still like XC.. Personally I like the jumping and smashing and stuff lol. My road bike is purely leg training
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There is a good practical step by step guide at
https://www.bikindex.com/wheels/index.asp
Pete's bike index was the original internet bike site. I remember it from the early 90's. Its a great site worth brousing.
https://www.bikindex.com/wheels/index.asp
Pete's bike index was the original internet bike site. I remember it from the early 90's. Its a great site worth brousing.
#15
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MichaelW
Thanks for the link, the site seems really good.
I've immersed myself into the world of spoke calculators
lacing patterns etc. Not much info on 28 hole rims
but it doesn't appear to different that then 36 hole.
Will let ya'll know the progress as I go.
Thanks to everyone who posted, this board is
really great for supporting/encouraging someone.
Marty
Thanks for the link, the site seems really good.
I've immersed myself into the world of spoke calculators
lacing patterns etc. Not much info on 28 hole rims
but it doesn't appear to different that then 36 hole.
Will let ya'll know the progress as I go.
Thanks to everyone who posted, this board is
really great for supporting/encouraging someone.
Marty
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#16
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Just one sugestion, use butted spokes, 14/15/14 are easier to weave, and still plenty strong. Only add a few bucks to the project and a nice costum touch of relability.
Last wheel I did was with DT Swiss 13/15/14, called Alpine III, ya gotta ream a little outa the spoke holes usually tho. For these it was 50 cents or so extra for the whole wheel.
kev
Last wheel I did was with DT Swiss 13/15/14, called Alpine III, ya gotta ream a little outa the spoke holes usually tho. For these it was 50 cents or so extra for the whole wheel.
kev
#17
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I'f you can't get a book then check out Seldon Brown's wheelbuilding page.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html