Measuring seatpost setback
#1
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On Your Left
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Measuring seatpost setback
I'm thinking of replacing the alloy seatpost on my CX bike with a carbon seatpost in the hopes to add some dampening.
The bike is a Cannondale SuperX and has a Cannondale C3 alloy 27.2mm x 300m seatpost. I already have the saddle pushed back most of the way, so I need to ensure I get a seatpost with at least the same setback.
So how do you measure it?
The bike is a Cannondale SuperX and has a Cannondale C3 alloy 27.2mm x 300m seatpost. I already have the saddle pushed back most of the way, so I need to ensure I get a seatpost with at least the same setback.
So how do you measure it?
#2
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The standard setback measurement is from the axis of the post, horizontally back to the center of the cradle.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
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Thanks....
Of course after posting I did a search and found a number of posts telling me the same.
Just measured... 25mm offset.
Of course after posting I did a search and found a number of posts telling me the same.
Just measured... 25mm offset.
#4
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Since you're now as far back as possible, look for more setback if possible. This will give you room for error, or if a new saddle wants to be farther back.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
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I think FSA makes a CF seatpost with 30-something mm of setback.
Just as an FWIW: I ride bikes with both aluminum and CF seatposts and don't really think CF adds anything noticeable to the "dampening". Setback and seat rails, I think, add more than the material of the seatpost, and tires many, many times more.
Just as an FWIW: I ride bikes with both aluminum and CF seatposts and don't really think CF adds anything noticeable to the "dampening". Setback and seat rails, I think, add more than the material of the seatpost, and tires many, many times more.
#6
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Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Just on the general topic of getting your butt farther back, I've found that the Selle AnAtomica saddle rails allow more range of setback than nearly any other saddle.
I've read that some at least of the Fizik models are as good in this respect, but I haven't tried one.
For a high-setback post, I use the Nitto S-84.
I've read that some at least of the Fizik models are as good in this respect, but I haven't tried one.
For a high-setback post, I use the Nitto S-84.
#7
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From: San Diego, CA
What you also want to know is how far back the forward edge of the seatclamp is. Not all seatposts are measured equally in that respect. That is what will determine how far back you can move a particular saddle. Set a straight edge along the front length of the post and measure to the leading edge of the clamp for the true setback that can be used compared to your present seatpost. Provided you can get you hands on various seatposts to measure that is.
#8
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+ the saddle rail factors in, shape & length of that adjustment..
check these out https://www.ergon-bike.com/en/product...tzen#cf-series
Lower one is even the 'set back' model.
check these out https://www.ergon-bike.com/en/product...tzen#cf-series
Lower one is even the 'set back' model.
#10
After years of trial and error I determined that I need my saddle pretty far back to achieve optimal pedaling. My knee ends up behind the pedal spindle. When searching for seatposts, this is the one I decided on (I wanted a nice aluminum post.)
VO Grand Cru Long Setback Seatpost MKII, Silver - Seatposts - Components
VO Grand Cru Long Setback Seatpost MKII, Silver - Seatposts - Components
#11
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After years of trial and error I determined that I need my saddle pretty far back to achieve optimal pedaling. My knee ends up behind the pedal spindle. When searching for seatposts, this is the one I decided on (I wanted a nice aluminum post.)
VO Grand Cru Long Setback Seatpost MKII, Silver - Seatposts - Components
VO Grand Cru Long Setback Seatpost MKII, Silver - Seatposts - Components
I have the same issue needing my saddle pretty far back. I'm not sure if it's femur length or just personal preference. I do have "long legs" (cycling inseam) compared to my overall height. I'm a tad shy of 5'8" and my cycling inseam is about 32.5". I'm not sure if it's the femur, but based on the amount of setback I need, I suspect it is at least part of it.
All I know is that it just feels better if my knee is well behind "KOPS". I do use KOPS when setting up a bike just because it's a handy landmark to go from. That's how I did it: I started adjusting my bikes to KOPS when I learned of it and then just experimented and found everything, including my butt, shoulders and hands, felt better behind KOPS.
#12
I have one of those too. It's a beautiful seatpost and high quality. I love the VO stuff that I've seen.
I have the same issue needing my saddle pretty far back. I'm not sure if it's femur length or just personal preference. I do have "long legs" (cycling inseam) compared to my overall height. I'm a tad shy of 5'8" and my cycling inseam is about 32.5". I'm not sure if it's the femur, but based on the amount of setback I need, I suspect it is at least part of it.
All I know is that it just feels better if my knee is well behind "KOPS". I do use KOPS when setting up a bike just because it's a handy landmark to go from. That's how I did it: I started adjusting my bikes to KOPS when I learned of it and then just experimented and found everything, including my butt, shoulders and hands, felt better behind KOPS.
I have the same issue needing my saddle pretty far back. I'm not sure if it's femur length or just personal preference. I do have "long legs" (cycling inseam) compared to my overall height. I'm a tad shy of 5'8" and my cycling inseam is about 32.5". I'm not sure if it's the femur, but based on the amount of setback I need, I suspect it is at least part of it.
All I know is that it just feels better if my knee is well behind "KOPS". I do use KOPS when setting up a bike just because it's a handy landmark to go from. That's how I did it: I started adjusting my bikes to KOPS when I learned of it and then just experimented and found everything, including my butt, shoulders and hands, felt better behind KOPS.
I discovered my saddle setback by accident when I tried setting up a new commuter bike exactly the same as my old one, which fits me better than any bike I've ever had. When I tried riding the new bike I could barely put any power into the pedals! It was terrible. After lots of careful measurements with a plumb bob I figured out that the seat tube angle on my new bike was significantly steeper, putting the saddle further forward even though it appeared to be in the same position. Moving it back fixed the problem.
I wonder how many bikes I've gotten rid of over the years because they didn't feel right or felt slow, but only felt that way because my saddle was in the wrong position.
#13
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,745
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After lots of careful measurements with a plumb bob I figured out that the seat tube angle on my new bike was significantly steeper, putting the saddle further forward even though it appeared to be in the same position. Moving it back fixed the problem.






