TRP HY/RD centering problem
#1
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From: Reykjavík
Bikes: Trek Crossrip 2 2017, Cube Cruve Pro 2015 and Berlín Dutch Bike 3 speed 2014
TRP HY/RD centering problem
Before I go back to my Trek dealer and bother them with my bike.
Been there few times and was hoping not to bother them for some time.
I have a problem with my Trek Crossrip with trp Hy/rd in teams of centering the brake.
I have a allen key skewers on the bike and when I remove the wheels I need to recenter the brakes, every time.
The problem is when I tighten the skewer the disc moves to one side of the caliber but only when I tighten the skewer.
The wheel is centred and I see the rotor in the middle of the caliber but like I said the moment when I tighten the skewer the rotor is no longer centered.
Someone know what could be causing that?
Been there few times and was hoping not to bother them for some time.
I have a problem with my Trek Crossrip with trp Hy/rd in teams of centering the brake.
I have a allen key skewers on the bike and when I remove the wheels I need to recenter the brakes, every time.
The problem is when I tighten the skewer the disc moves to one side of the caliber but only when I tighten the skewer.
The wheel is centred and I see the rotor in the middle of the caliber but like I said the moment when I tighten the skewer the rotor is no longer centered.
Someone know what could be causing that?
#2
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Joined: Sep 2015
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From: New Jersey
Put the bike on the ground, wheels down, and lean on the saddle/handlebar when you are tightening the bolt for the rear/front skewer. Your body weight will ensure that the hub axles are in the right place, and keep the skewer from wandering. Also, put some grease in the socket that the long skewer/bolt is recessed in, which will reduce the tendency for it to walk while tightening it.
#3
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Joined: May 2015
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From: Reykjavík
Bikes: Trek Crossrip 2 2017, Cube Cruve Pro 2015 and Berlín Dutch Bike 3 speed 2014
#4
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)
Before I go back to my Trek dealer and bother them with my bike.
Been there few times and was hoping not to bother them for some time.
I have a problem with my Trek Crossrip with trp Hy/rd in teams of centering the brake.
I have a allen key skewers on the bike and when I remove the wheels I need to recenter the brakes, every time.
The problem is when I tighten the skewer the disc moves to one side of the caliber but only when I tighten the skewer.
The wheel is centred and I see the rotor in the middle of the caliber but like I said the moment when I tighten the skewer the rotor is no longer centered.
Someone know what could be causing that?
Been there few times and was hoping not to bother them for some time.
I have a problem with my Trek Crossrip with trp Hy/rd in teams of centering the brake.
I have a allen key skewers on the bike and when I remove the wheels I need to recenter the brakes, every time.
The problem is when I tighten the skewer the disc moves to one side of the caliber but only when I tighten the skewer.
The wheel is centred and I see the rotor in the middle of the caliber but like I said the moment when I tighten the skewer the rotor is no longer centered.
Someone know what could be causing that?
[MENTION=421412]wschruba[/MENTION] gave you good advice about ensuring that the axle is fully seated every time to install the wheel. Even then, I've found that some QR skewers may not hold the axle strongly enough to prevent it from creeping once the brakes are applied. Older-style "internal" cam QR skewers (metal cap where the lever enters on one side) are more secure than "external" cam skewers (have a larger lever that is the cam). I don't know whether "allen key skewers" are more or less secure.
This problem is one of the big issues encouraging the use of through-axles with disc brakes, like on Trek's Crockett and Boone forks.
Also, you should center the brake calipers on the rotor only when the skewers are fully tightened, because that's the riding/operating position.
#5
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From: Reykjavík
Bikes: Trek Crossrip 2 2017, Cube Cruve Pro 2015 and Berlín Dutch Bike 3 speed 2014
#6
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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You use the Blocking Knob before you remove the wheel?
it keeps the auto pad wear function from closing the pads, into the air space, if the brake lever is touched..
It's unique to the Hy Rd ,... typical hydraulic brakes you need to stuff something between the brake pads.
...
it keeps the auto pad wear function from closing the pads, into the air space, if the brake lever is touched..
It's unique to the Hy Rd ,... typical hydraulic brakes you need to stuff something between the brake pads.
...
#7
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From: Reykjavík
Bikes: Trek Crossrip 2 2017, Cube Cruve Pro 2015 and Berlín Dutch Bike 3 speed 2014
#8
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
try it.. it's there.
Or, you could stuff in a conventional Hydraulic Keeper, every time you take the wheel out, too.
Any touching the brake lever* causes the caliper to close and not retract again, with no disc there.
*or given it's hybrid nature, pulling the cable on the open runs ...
...
Or, you could stuff in a conventional Hydraulic Keeper, every time you take the wheel out, too.
Any touching the brake lever* causes the caliper to close and not retract again, with no disc there.
*or given it's hybrid nature, pulling the cable on the open runs ...
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-29-17 at 02:00 PM.
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