Any attachments to make pedaling more difficult?
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2015
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Any attachments to make pedaling more difficult?
My bike wheel wore out. It wobbled. It was more work that it should be to pedal. I replaced it with a new one. That's much easier to pedal.
I don't mind the Superman feeling of my leg muscles being plenty strong for pedaling. That's going to fade if the muscles aren't used though. And I do notice the muscles are being fatigued in a different way. It's easier to pedal, so I'm probably on a higher/harder gear pedaling now.
If I wanted to make it more difficult to pedal again for the purpose of pushing those leg muscles a bit while I'm doing my normal riding.... Is there an attachment or something I could use on the bike that would do that? I went a long time with that extra 10% or whatever amount of work pedaling. I did notice it sometimes, but mostly it was hidden in my normal commute riding.
Is there anything I could add on my bike that would recreate that, make it harder to pedal?
I remembered an old exercise bike having an attachment like this that regulated the amount of work needed to pedal.
https://images1.americanlisted.com/nl...d_30658103.jpg
Would there be anything like that a normal bike? Except I've got splash guards over my wheels so this would quite work.
I don't mind the Superman feeling of my leg muscles being plenty strong for pedaling. That's going to fade if the muscles aren't used though. And I do notice the muscles are being fatigued in a different way. It's easier to pedal, so I'm probably on a higher/harder gear pedaling now.
If I wanted to make it more difficult to pedal again for the purpose of pushing those leg muscles a bit while I'm doing my normal riding.... Is there an attachment or something I could use on the bike that would do that? I went a long time with that extra 10% or whatever amount of work pedaling. I did notice it sometimes, but mostly it was hidden in my normal commute riding.
Is there anything I could add on my bike that would recreate that, make it harder to pedal?
I remembered an old exercise bike having an attachment like this that regulated the amount of work needed to pedal.
https://images1.americanlisted.com/nl...d_30658103.jpg
Would there be anything like that a normal bike? Except I've got splash guards over my wheels so this would quite work.
#2
Disco Infiltrator




Joined: May 2013
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From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
The shifter
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Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
#3
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From: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
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If I wanted to make it more difficult to pedal again for the purpose of pushing those leg muscles a bit while I'm doing my normal riding.... Is there an attachment or something I could use on the bike that would do that? I went a long time with that extra 10% or whatever amount of work pedaling. I did notice it sometimes, but mostly it was hidden in my normal commute riding.
#4
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From: Twin Cities, Minnesota, USA
Bikes: 2017 Salsa Carbon Mukluk frame built with XT, 2018 Kona Rove NRB build with Sram Apex 1,2008 Salsa El Mariachi, 1986 Centurion Ironman
You could just put a big ass chainring on it.
#6
Half way there

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From: North Carolina
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Add weight and seek out hills? Look at the weather forecast to plan for headwinds? Adjust your brakes to drag?
I do find that commuting on my 40+ lb bike (when loaded) sure helps mu speed on recreational rides.
I do find that commuting on my 40+ lb bike (when loaded) sure helps mu speed on recreational rides.
#7
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Joined: Nov 2006
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A rack with panniers and a good lock will make you pedal harder for sure.
New York Fahgettaboudit Mini
Product weight: 4.55 lbs (2.06 kgs)
Get 2 of these locks.
New York Fahgettaboudit Mini
Product weight: 4.55 lbs (2.06 kgs)
Get 2 of these locks.
#8
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From: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, 86 De Rosa Pro, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
hills. and in general best/most efficient technique is not to push hard on the pedals slowly, but to push less hard and pedal faster. it will build up your muscles just as well.
if you commute, try to go a little faster everyday, going faster takes more power the faster you go.
otherwise it is basically making what is supposed to be an efficient machine, less efficient is pretty....not sure the right word lame is close.
if you commute, try to go a little faster everyday, going faster takes more power the faster you go.
otherwise it is basically making what is supposed to be an efficient machine, less efficient is pretty....not sure the right word lame is close.
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
#9
My bike wheel wore out. It wobbled. It was more work that it should be to pedal. I replaced it with a new one. That's much easier to pedal.
I don't mind the Superman feeling of my leg muscles being plenty strong for pedaling. That's going to fade if the muscles aren't used though. And I do notice the muscles are being fatigued in a different way. It's easier to pedal, so I'm probably on a higher/harder gear pedaling now.
If I wanted to make it more difficult to pedal again for the purpose of pushing those leg muscles a bit while I'm doing my normal riding.... Is there an attachment or something I could use on the bike that would do that? I went a long time with that extra 10% or whatever amount of work pedaling. I did notice it sometimes, but mostly it was hidden in my normal commute riding.
Is there anything I could add on my bike that would recreate that, make it harder to pedal?
I remembered an old exercise bike having an attachment like this that regulated the amount of work needed to pedal.
https://images1.americanlisted.com/nl...d_30658103.jpg
Would there be anything like that a normal bike? Except I've got splash guards over my wheels so this would quite work.
I don't mind the Superman feeling of my leg muscles being plenty strong for pedaling. That's going to fade if the muscles aren't used though. And I do notice the muscles are being fatigued in a different way. It's easier to pedal, so I'm probably on a higher/harder gear pedaling now.
If I wanted to make it more difficult to pedal again for the purpose of pushing those leg muscles a bit while I'm doing my normal riding.... Is there an attachment or something I could use on the bike that would do that? I went a long time with that extra 10% or whatever amount of work pedaling. I did notice it sometimes, but mostly it was hidden in my normal commute riding.
Is there anything I could add on my bike that would recreate that, make it harder to pedal?
I remembered an old exercise bike having an attachment like this that regulated the amount of work needed to pedal.
https://images1.americanlisted.com/nl...d_30658103.jpg
Would there be anything like that a normal bike? Except I've got splash guards over my wheels so this would quite work.
#10
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From: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
#11
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From: Down Under
Bikes: A steel framed 26" off road tourer from a manufacturer who thinks they are cool. Giant Anthem. Trek 720 Multiroad pub bike. 10 kids bikes all under 20". Assorted waifs and unfinished projects.
I find dragging an old car tire works.
#16
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Joined: Apr 2007
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Hills and head wind.
Squats in the gym, or a series of 5+ 1 minute intervals with air squats in your home. (done' properly- don't hurt yourself). Do as many air squats in a minute as you can, and see how many times you can repeat that with, say, 15 - 30 seconds in between. Lengthen the time and/or number to progress. Learn to pace yourself so you can barely, only with maximum effort, match the first set with the last.
Weighted or unweighted lunges too (again, properly!)
Squats in the gym, or a series of 5+ 1 minute intervals with air squats in your home. (done' properly- don't hurt yourself). Do as many air squats in a minute as you can, and see how many times you can repeat that with, say, 15 - 30 seconds in between. Lengthen the time and/or number to progress. Learn to pace yourself so you can barely, only with maximum effort, match the first set with the last.
Weighted or unweighted lunges too (again, properly!)
#19
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 890
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Use thorn-resistant tubes.
You won't have flats. You'll also feel like dragging a stone.
Bontrager Thorn Resistant Tube (700c, 36mm Presta Valve) - www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com
27" x 1.125-1.25, 700 x 28-32C Weigth: 380g
You won't have flats. You'll also feel like dragging a stone.
Bontrager Thorn Resistant Tube (700c, 36mm Presta Valve) - www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com
27" x 1.125-1.25, 700 x 28-32C Weigth: 380g
#20
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From: Long Island, NY
Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport
Oh, man did you really want to ask this question or did you want to see some clever answers?
So, there is more weight and more friction. More friction can be further divided into mechanical friction and aerodynamic friction.
Adding weight and friction is relatively easy. It is usually lowering weight and friction that we all worry about.
I had a neighbor who wanted to use his old bike to get a little cardio-vascular exersize. He wanted me to look the bike over before he started this. It was an older but sturdy bike. Perhaps a Schwinn. The wheels were straight. The brakes worked. I probably adjusted his seat and told him to go to the LBS and get a set of tires.
He went and came back a few hundred dollars lighter. The LBS did a good job selling. However, you don't need a great bike to get the heart and blood flowing.
So, get an old clunker. Make sure you have fenders, ehem, mudgaurds, so that you can ride more often.
If that is not enough, I like the idea of the thorn resistant tubes and the parachute.
Some of the tractor guys put anti-freeze in their tires rather than buying wheel weights. I bet that would work well. It is best to remove the schrader valve to get the water/anti-freeze in the tube.
Boy, this could be fun (as long as I am not the one pedaling).
So, there is more weight and more friction. More friction can be further divided into mechanical friction and aerodynamic friction.
Adding weight and friction is relatively easy. It is usually lowering weight and friction that we all worry about.
I had a neighbor who wanted to use his old bike to get a little cardio-vascular exersize. He wanted me to look the bike over before he started this. It was an older but sturdy bike. Perhaps a Schwinn. The wheels were straight. The brakes worked. I probably adjusted his seat and told him to go to the LBS and get a set of tires.
He went and came back a few hundred dollars lighter. The LBS did a good job selling. However, you don't need a great bike to get the heart and blood flowing.
So, get an old clunker. Make sure you have fenders, ehem, mudgaurds, so that you can ride more often.
If that is not enough, I like the idea of the thorn resistant tubes and the parachute.
Some of the tractor guys put anti-freeze in their tires rather than buying wheel weights. I bet that would work well. It is best to remove the schrader valve to get the water/anti-freeze in the tube.
Boy, this could be fun (as long as I am not the one pedaling).
#24
Mechanic/Tourist
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
What you really need is an attachment to your keyboard that prevents inane posts. It's too bad you can't think of better ways to occupy your time and waste that of others on the forum.
#25






