Change drop handlebars for flat
05-03-17 | 01:15 PM
#26
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Many thanks for all the advice I hadn't thought of 'swept back' handlebars. I will measure the handlebars tomorrow - I have digital callipers at work. I think the centre of the handlebars (part that goes into the stem) is ever so slightly wider than the rest of the length. I should probably just buy a new bike as I'm sure its not worth all the money spent however I had the same model (different colour) stolen years ago so this one has 'sentimental' meaning!
05-03-17 | 04:41 PM
#27
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Joined: Nov 2006
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And get a $40 U-Lock.
A handle bar $22: https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...ycle-handlebar
Grips $7-15: https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...artape/comfort
2 cables and housing $4, though there are stainless cable kits in other colors: https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...sembly-1-brake
Last edited by Barabaika; 05-03-17 at 04:45 PM.
05-05-17 | 06:39 PM
#28
The Cinelli Priest is one riser bar that uses road brake levers. Because of the larger diameter, you don't use grips. You wrap them with bar tape.
VeloBase.com - Component: Cinelli Priest
VeloBase.com - Component: Cinelli Priest
05-05-17 | 06:59 PM
#29
The Nitto Moustache bar is the model RM-016.
The Nitto North Road is the model B-352. Mine was $40 or so when I bought it.
HANDLE BARÂ NITTO
A moustache bar is a flattened version of a drop bar with the same geometry. It's for a more aggressive position with the same stem length.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYNfLSdIRNk
The Nitto North Road is the model B-352. Mine was $40 or so when I bought it.
HANDLE BARÂ NITTO
A moustache bar is a flattened version of a drop bar with the same geometry. It's for a more aggressive position with the same stem length.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYNfLSdIRNk
The Moustache Handlebar
05-05-17 | 08:28 PM
#31
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12-15-17 | 02:16 PM
#32
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Joined: Sep 2015
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First, you should measure the diameter of the current handlebar using calipers. Or it can be stamped on the handlebar.
Your bicycle is from 1989, so the diameter should be standard - 25.4mm or 26mm. It's more likely to be 25.4mm.
The process is pretty simple.
1) Push on the brake levers and unscrew the bolts inside of them and take them out.
2) Use a metric allen wrench to unscrew the bolt at the bottom of the stem. Take out the handlebar.
3) Carefully insert a new handlebar trying not to scratch it and screw in the stem bolt.
4) Screw in the brake levers.
5) You may have to replace the brake cables and housing to match the new lengths.
Get a swept-back handlebar called Nitto North Road, it's more comfortable.
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...HWyWBigQ2SsIGA
There are other similar handlebars.
Category: - Ironweed Bicycle Products
Your bicycle is from 1989, so the diameter should be standard - 25.4mm or 26mm. It's more likely to be 25.4mm.
The process is pretty simple.
1) Push on the brake levers and unscrew the bolts inside of them and take them out.
2) Use a metric allen wrench to unscrew the bolt at the bottom of the stem. Take out the handlebar.
3) Carefully insert a new handlebar trying not to scratch it and screw in the stem bolt.
4) Screw in the brake levers.
5) You may have to replace the brake cables and housing to match the new lengths.
Get a swept-back handlebar called Nitto North Road, it's more comfortable.
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...HWyWBigQ2SsIGA
There are other similar handlebars.
Category: - Ironweed Bicycle Products
Does anyone know what the name of handlebar that is 4th from the top down is? I think it is a Velo Orange Belleville but from my understanding the Belleville is 43cm at the bend and so I didn't think that a Porteur bar(next bar down) that is 45cm at the bend would fit inside of it.
I am looking for a flat bar like that, with a swept back handle that I can use guidonnet levers with. I plan to chop the swept back portion to be just a tad longer than the guidonnet levers for an aggressive city/commuter look.
thanks
12-15-17 | 02:35 PM
#33
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Many thanks for all your replies. I am looking at different handlebars and was wondering if anyone can advise on what is the difference between the 'riser' handle bars and the completely straight handle bars. I was wondering what the pros/cons are why you would use one and not the other...
1. The upward rise bend limits how far inward you can slide your shifters, brake levers and handgrips. Consequently they tend to be a couple of inches wider then a straight bar. Since I normally cut downfall bars a bit, I really hate the wider riser bars.
2. Since they are wider, they tend to be swept back more to match the arc of your arms when stretched out so far to your side.
3. They limit your hand position more. If you install bar lends like on a straight handlebar, they'll look goofy.
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