Second wheel set - things to watch out for?
#1
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From: Sydney, Australia
Second wheel set - things to watch out for?
I am considering getting a second wheel set for my CX bike so that I can run different tubeless tires more easily.
Apart from the obvious things like rim diameter, correct thru-axle hub size and disk-brake specific rims, are there any other "gotchas" that I need to consider?
I presume that my life will be easier if I choose the same model of cassette, or at least the same gear ratios (11-32) to avoid having to re-index the gears.
Are there any other issues, such as disk rotor spacing etc. that I need to consider when choosing the new wheels?
Thanks!
John
Apart from the obvious things like rim diameter, correct thru-axle hub size and disk-brake specific rims, are there any other "gotchas" that I need to consider?
I presume that my life will be easier if I choose the same model of cassette, or at least the same gear ratios (11-32) to avoid having to re-index the gears.
Are there any other issues, such as disk rotor spacing etc. that I need to consider when choosing the new wheels?
Thanks!
John
#2
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Western PDX
Bikes: Cannondale Synapse, Focus Izalco, Focus Mares CX, BMC GF02, Giant VT3 MTB (upgraded), Felt Brougham SS
One piece of advice that I wished i knew about was that it's hard to find good disc rotors at 140mm for 6-bolt, so I would advise buying wheels with center-lock hubs. If you want 160mm rotors and don't see yourself ever using the wheels for a road disc bike than my advice is less important :-)
#3
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From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Assume that minor adjustments to the derailleur (limits and indexing) will be required with any change, even like for like, due to manufacturing tolerances; different hubs almost certainly. It is possible to adjust the cassette position with shims to mostly eliminate this. Sticking with the same gears, or at least large cog, will likely spare you from a B-screw adjustment.
#4
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From: Sydney, Australia
Assume that minor adjustments to the derailleur (limits and indexing) will be required with any change, even like for like, due to manufacturing tolerances; different hubs almost certainly. It is possible to adjust the cassette position with shims to mostly eliminate this. Sticking with the same gears, or at least large cog, will likely spare you from a B-screw adjustment.
#5
You can shim cassettes and rotors so theres no adjustments needed. I've done cassettes with excellent results, I'm getting ready to shim rotors for my new road disc wheelset. I don't run cassettes with large enough differences so that b-screw needed adjustment.
#6
What's a "good disc rotor"? I see Asian sources for Avid 6 bolt G2 rotors for $20/two, I've had good luck with those in 160/185/200 size and was thinking to buy a pair.
#7
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From: Western PDX
Bikes: Cannondale Synapse, Focus Izalco, Focus Mares CX, BMC GF02, Giant VT3 MTB (upgraded), Felt Brougham SS
I haven't used Avid's on the road but I have tried a few non Shimano rotors and didn't like how loud they were. I've had to order SRAM Centerline's which are not cheap. I would rather use XT or Ice Tech Shimano rotors (which are also readily available in LBS) but they are not available at 140mm in 6-bolt.
Last edited by Larry77; 05-03-17 at 08:39 PM.
#8
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I'm haven't used Avid's on the road but I have tried a few non Shimano rotors and didn't like how loud they were. I've had to order SRAM Centerline's which are not cheap. I would rather use XT or Ice Tech Shimano rotors (which are also readily available in LBS) but they are not available at 140mm in 6-bolt.
#9
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From: Western PDX
Bikes: Cannondale Synapse, Focus Izalco, Focus Mares CX, BMC GF02, Giant VT3 MTB (upgraded), Felt Brougham SS
You can probably get adaptors to accept bigger rotors but 160mm or larger on a road bike is overkill and you are paying with less aero and more weight...





