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Second wheel set - things to watch out for?

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Second wheel set - things to watch out for?

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Old 05-02-17 | 07:20 PM
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Second wheel set - things to watch out for?

I am considering getting a second wheel set for my CX bike so that I can run different tubeless tires more easily.

Apart from the obvious things like rim diameter, correct thru-axle hub size and disk-brake specific rims, are there any other "gotchas" that I need to consider?

I presume that my life will be easier if I choose the same model of cassette, or at least the same gear ratios (11-32) to avoid having to re-index the gears.

Are there any other issues, such as disk rotor spacing etc. that I need to consider when choosing the new wheels?

Thanks!

John
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Old 05-02-17 | 07:31 PM
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Bikes: Cannondale Synapse, Focus Izalco, Focus Mares CX, BMC GF02, Giant VT3 MTB (upgraded), Felt Brougham SS

One piece of advice that I wished i knew about was that it's hard to find good disc rotors at 140mm for 6-bolt, so I would advise buying wheels with center-lock hubs. If you want 160mm rotors and don't see yourself ever using the wheels for a road disc bike than my advice is less important :-)
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Old 05-03-17 | 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by johngwheeler

I presume that my life will be easier if I choose the same model of cassette, or at least the same gear ratios (11-32) to avoid having to re-index the gears.

John
Assume that minor adjustments to the derailleur (limits and indexing) will be required with any change, even like for like, due to manufacturing tolerances; different hubs almost certainly. It is possible to adjust the cassette position with shims to mostly eliminate this. Sticking with the same gears, or at least large cog, will likely spare you from a B-screw adjustment.
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Old 05-03-17 | 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
Assume that minor adjustments to the derailleur (limits and indexing) will be required with any change, even like for like, due to manufacturing tolerances; different hubs almost certainly. It is possible to adjust the cassette position with shims to mostly eliminate this. Sticking with the same gears, or at least large cog, will likely spare you from a B-screw adjustment.
Thanks - this is useful advice!
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Old 05-03-17 | 11:44 AM
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You can shim cassettes and rotors so theres no adjustments needed. I've done cassettes with excellent results, I'm getting ready to shim rotors for my new road disc wheelset. I don't run cassettes with large enough differences so that b-screw needed adjustment.
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Old 05-03-17 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Larry77
One piece of advice that I wished i knew about was that it's hard to find good disc rotors at 140mm for 6-bolt....
What's a "good disc rotor"? I see Asian sources for Avid 6 bolt G2 rotors for $20/two, I've had good luck with those in 160/185/200 size and was thinking to buy a pair.
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Old 05-03-17 | 03:42 PM
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I haven't used Avid's on the road but I have tried a few non Shimano rotors and didn't like how loud they were. I've had to order SRAM Centerline's which are not cheap. I would rather use XT or Ice Tech Shimano rotors (which are also readily available in LBS) but they are not available at 140mm in 6-bolt.

Last edited by Larry77; 05-03-17 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 05-03-17 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry77
I'm haven't used Avid's on the road but I have tried a few non Shimano rotors and didn't like how loud they were. I've had to order SRAM Centerline's which are not cheap. I would rather use XT or Ice Tech Shimano rotors (which are also readily available in LBS) but they are not available at 140mm in 6-bolt.
Is the rotor size determined by the mounting point of the caliber on frame, or is it possible to use different sizes?
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Old 05-03-17 | 08:38 PM
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You can probably get adaptors to accept bigger rotors but 160mm or larger on a road bike is overkill and you are paying with less aero and more weight...
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