I'm looking to build a touring bike from scratch & will be ordering all parts online (due to limited availability where I live). This will also serve as a crash-course in bike-mechanics as a bonus. I'm not overly eager about paying a fortunue for this bike (as I don't have much cash on hand), but as I've discovered I'll have to pay up quite a bit for quality stuff. Hopefully the price tag will land at around 1500-2000$.
I'm basically using this article as a reference: cyclingabout.com/build-a-round-the-world-touring-bike-on-a-budget/

So, on to the questions. Looking at the various drivetrain components out there has left me quite dumfounded ... where to even begin? Do the components need to match each other in order to function, what does the different specs mean? Will they match the frame? Searching around briefly I've found this: bike-components.de/en/Shimano/SLX-M7000-1x11-32-Groupset-2017-Model-p50738/ . Should I buy this perhaps? Will it fit on a surly lht frame?

You need to decide on what you are building first. What you need and what you want it to do.
I wouldn't think an 11 speed would be the best choice for a touring bike.
Have you decided on a flat bar setup?

Lots of cheap stuff on E-Bay, especially if you can accept stuff that isn't cutting edge.

As far as "matching", some must, some it doesn't matter. Sometimes new + old stuff matches better.

What I would suggest (and maybe you've done this), is to start with a list of features you want, then the rest should fall into place. It will be hard for anybody here too give advice without answers to those questions too.

• On Road? Off Road? Gravel?
• Brake Type (Calliper, Canti, V-Brakes, Mechanical Disc, Hydraulic Disc)
• Tire Size.
• Frame?
• Bar Type (flat, drops, something else)
• Front & Rear Gearing & Number of speeds. Single/Double/Triple Front? IGH?
• Shifter Type

That will mostly define your bike, and you will be able too quickly fill in the rest.

A 1x11 flat bar groupset wouldn't be my choice, but each person's choices are different.

Just an all-round touring bike. And yes, you're probably right. I just posted that thing because I have no clue really.



1. On Road mostly
2. V-brake or cantilever
3. 26" tire
3. Medium fram
4. Butterfly bar
5. Not sure
6. Not sure

I wan't a regular, versatile, robust touring bike, basically. I just don't have a clue where to start when it comes to the drivetrain because I don't understand the specs etc. So I'm looking for suggestions basically...

For drivetrain specs, hmmm

Rear width, this will be dependent on your frame specs.Hub Type:Most modern shifters are indexed and should be matched to your rear cassette.There are lots of gearing calculators. But, consider your needs for high end gearing (large front, small rear), and low end gearing (small front, large rear).

Many people in the touring forum target for somewhere around 1:1 gearing for the low end. And, many different solutions for the top end.

Surly LHT has a recommended list of components Long Haul Trucker | Bikes | Surly Bikes
But it is set up as a triple crankset plus a 10 speed cassette plus bar-end shifters.

Your selected Shimano SLX setup is 1x11 plus trigger shifters. It's more a mountain bike setup, but it'll work.

If you use a 3x8 speed setup, it'll be much cheaper to get and maintain.
If your setup has more speeds, it doesn't mean that it's of a higher quality.

Are you considering building up the frame just because you want butterfly bars? If so, it's probably more cost effective to buy the complete bike, buy butterfly bars, 3x10 flat bar road shifters (probably Tiagra SL-4603), and whatever SHORT PULL MTB brake levers, and a stem to match your desired fit. You can sell the bar end shifters and road levers and bar. Bicycle manufacturers buy parts at considerably lower cost than even distributors, which makes doing frame builds really expensive comparatively.

If you do build from the frame, I'd probably recommend 9 speed mountain bike components. These are available with slightly larger chainrings (48x36x26 is common) that will be appropriate for touring paired with probably a 11-32 cassette. Note that newer MTB triple cranks usually have a smaller big ring than a 40t, so try to find a front derailleur intended for a 48/36/26. Parts at this quality level are pretty reasonably priced, but come at a good quality level, and replacement parts should be pretty readily available for repair on the road. If you're using butterfly bars, you really don't need any road components--use MTB shifters and derailleurs, and V-brakes instead of cantis (with appropriate long-pull levers).

Some quick compatibility notes:
Your LHT uses a 28.6 bottom pull clamp on front derailleur
Road 10 speed and less and MTB 9 speed and less Shimano (as well as 2:1 ratio SRAM) rear derailleurs use the same cable pull ratios, and therefor can be interchanged
Road and MTB FDs are not compatible
V brake/Linear pull brakes use a different lever than cantilever/road brakes.
The rear derailleur must be rated for both its maximum cog size, and its chain wrap capacity, which is (largest chainring-smallest chainring)+(largest cog-smallest cog)

The stock LHT wheels are totally reasonable, but if you're doing long distance unsupported touring a even burlier, professionally built custom wheel set would meaningfully improve the reliability of the bike.

...read this again ^^^. It's true in all cases, with the possible exception of someone who already knows a lot about bikes and mechanics and has access to a reliable source for used components.

Read it several times in fact. If funds are an issue you're better off buying a complete bike, even if you need to pay to have it shipped to you. Shipping will be a cost consideration for that frame and all those parts you use to build it as well.

There are solid, well built and accoutered touring bikes available used all over the place if you look. And if you are new to this, there's a good chance your first attempt will turn out not to be exactly what you want anyway.


If your issue is that you want to know the mechanics of your bike so you can fix it while touring (a good idea), buy a used touring bike, disassemble it, clean everything, lube it up as you reassemble it, and pay attention to truing and tensioning the wheels.

I just did my first near-complete overhaul of my road bike, going from zero bike knowledge, to replacing almost everything - handlebar, stem, seat, seatpost, chain, derailleurs, shifters, even rear wheel hub. The only thing I didn't do because it required special tools was reinstall the headset (i changed the headset bearing though) beacuse the star-fangled nut and crown race require special tools to install.

I learned a ton in the process - and bought over $200 in tools in the process, so don't forget to factor those in! Youtube was my friend, and these forums are always great for noob questions. I will second that I didn't save any money on the build, probably spent a bit more in fact, but for sure in the long run, it's a win, as when you know how to break down your bike to overhaul it before things get fused, broken, etc, you def will save money in the long run, esp cause the tools are a 1x expenditure.


The idea above of buying a prebuilt bike and then disassembling it is actually a pretty decent one - you can waste a fair amount of money with incompatible parts despite good research about what should work and what doesn't, and being stuck for a week at a time waiting for the next part to arrive is really annoying, and you'll learn just as much and faster buying breaking down the bike and rebuilding it without the hassle of ordering parts.

Call Mike Varley at Black Mountain Cycles.

He put me together a "kit" for my first build and gave me some pointers on it.

5. I suggest 3x8.

Triple to get the most range (lowest). 22-32-42 chainrings. 22t is the smallest you can go. With a heavy load and fatigued state you won't need more than 42t. Also 42t is more readily available in steel (aka more durable).

8 speed has thicker chain compared to 9 and 10 speed. Also is compatible with 6 and 7 speed. If i am not wrong an 8 speed shifter can also be used to shift a 7 speed wheel.

6. The most comfortable i have used is Shimano trigger shifters. The separate types (not Easyfire EF series) ie Altus et al. Operated by index finger and thumb. Very easy operation.

EF series have the index finger lever in a higher position and you have to lift your index finger to activate it.

The separate ones have the index finger lever under the brake lever so you can activate it from your natural resting position.

Since 'Availability is an issue' where you live; and your cashflow is limited, I would recommend buying a bike that fits 80%-90% of your requirements and modifying from there.

From my experience and what I've read here, unless it's a bespoke, boutique bike, doing a full frame-up build will cost 30-50% more than the identical-spec bike bought 'off the rack'

Also, do you have a specific ride or trip you want to take this bike on? 'I want to ride Alaska to California' or 'spend the summer sightseeing in Europe' or even; 'I want a bike to replace my car'
If you can tell us what you want to do, we can give you a better idea of which direction to start.

Thanks for all your advice.

It's partly due that and has partly to do with availability and price. I do not need butterfly bars, but I've gotten palm numbness from riding a cheap bike with flat bars that I own, so I want something ergonomically friendly that doesen't cause any issues.
I thought I could make it cheaper by buying all components seperately, but you've opened my eyes with your statement.
Another thing is that most touring bikes online have 700c wheels, and I've read that 26" are more robust and versatile. I have never toured before, I'm planning on possibly doing a several month long tour. So I wonder if these wheels would hold up and not ruin my experience.

Did that two years ago. One LHT and 2 Trolls. Should fit your stated budget.

1. I can send you the entire list of components I've purchased if you care. Post or PM
2. WRT drivetrain/components, I'd suggest that you make a decision on the group you prefer. I went for XT. Then it is "simply" a matter of purchasing the group and mounting it on the frame.
3. In my experience it is MUCH cheaper to order from German online retailers (rosebikes, bike24 come to mind).

4. A somewhat relevant consideration is the handlebars. If you prefer drop-downs, then you'll have to deal with compatibility issues because their diameters are different from those used on MTBs. I prefer trekking (butterfly) bars so this was not an issue for me.

Of course, you can buy online cheaper because you buy only those parts that you want. You can also return them or sell easily if you don't scratch them. I would rather buy a part on ebay that is in a retail box than another one without a box that was taken of a complete bike.

Just use huge online sites that have almost everything:
https://www.niagaracycle.com/
https://www.universalcycles.com/
These are overseas, but some components are very cheap, especially Shimano.
Chain Reaction Cycles | MTB | Road | TRI | Run
https://www.bike24.com/

700c wheels are more appropriate for a taller guy 5'6" and up.
26" look better on a bike for a shorter person.

Get nice double-wall 36-spoke rims and lace them to nice hubs using double-butted spokes. For example, you can use CR-18 rims.

considering your ample budget... 3x8 MTB drivetrain, XT, or better... avoid sram, their stuff is finicky and just doesnt last as long... Durability is an issue with the Hollowtech II bottom brackets, so consider that factor... a high-end, sealed BB will be nearly as strong, and last much longer, IMO.... AVOID GXP BB's... they seem to fail like clockwork, i swear! unless you rarely ride your bike, of course.......

canti brakes are stronger, and will help when your bike is loaded up for touring. A bit tricky to get set-up properly, though, and more easily damaged in a hard crash... put on Kool Stop orange(salmon) pads, or the dual friction black/orange type, if you will be riding mostly in the warmer, drier, months.

Hubs... once again, the XT or better ones will have the qualities you seek... seals are a must for all weather use. the off-road stuff is meant to handle abuse and mud/water...

RIMS... STOUT, double-walled rims... don't even consider less, or you will be truing rims a LOT, if not actually REPLACING them... and get good quality stainless steel spokes.... DT are the standard, go-to, quality spokes.... then have a GOOD wheel builder build them... Sugar Wheels in Portland is my recommendation... those folks do a superb job! There may be a closer, GOOD, wheels shop near you.

CABLES... Jagwire's higher cable set is highly advised... they are lightly ground for an easy pull, and their top of the line sets are teflon coated, plus the housings/end caps are nice, too... this cable set will prevent early failure of the cables, and rust is not an issue.

Chains... get a shimano ultegra or XT/XTR grade chain... and get the correct one for an 8 speed setup.

FRAME... get a good one, with matching fork that has pannier inserts half way up the fork leg.... and MAKE CERTAIN it is the correct size for YOU. I prefer Chrome Moly frames... Comfort, strength, and DURABILITY is the reasoning there.

SEATS... the single most important thing on a touring bike... have an experienced fitter help you find the correct one... and if the shop won't let you TEST RIDE the seat, then walk out, and find a different shop.

With your budget you can get an older bike and update it with more modern components.
The Univega Gran Touring, the Trek 720, the Schwinn Voyageur, the Specialized Expedition, etc.

I just bought the Miyata 1000 for $600. I probably overpaid, but there are not many of these around.
The freewheel is 5-speed, the crankset is odd, the rims are 27". But it's very nice.

Almost anything will fit on almost any Surly!

As others have mentioned, it is difficult to build a bike from parts and save money vs a complete bike.

I built a CrossCheck from scratch (sorry that looks crappy, BF updated its engine and the formatting got jacked), and through careful eBay shopping, saved a little bit vs retail. But I started with a donor bike of usable parts, and had the luxury of time: buying parts only when good deals presented themselves, until all the original parts made their way back to the donor.

Surly Troll might be perfect for you. 26" wheels, designed for touring, tires look like they'd be ok on road as well as gravel/hardpack, and it already has a flatbar and a 3x10 drivetrain so you can just swap in a $20 butterfly bar and be done. And it looks like it shouldn't be too hard to order a complete Troll for about $1600.

So before you embark on your build-from-scratch project, plan out your whole parts (and tools!) list, add up the cost, and decide which way you want to go.

Why are the tires so huge? Are they meant for riding on a beach?
It'll be difficult to propel such a bike for 5 miles or more.

& you have a lot of tools to buy step 1 Buy a Book on bike repair, , read it.

So apparently you went to the page and pasted the picture, but didn't feel like reading the text?
Tires can be changed, but the tread on these looks actually decent for the road, and can be run at low pressures so they'll be super comfy. To say it would be difficult to propel them 5 miles is a ridiculous exaggeration.

You said that the frame "might be perfect for you". But it's a specialized bike for riding off-road in the country; thus, the wheels are huge and heavy.

The thread's author wants to tour on-road for months.
My opinion:

• front and rear racks with front and rear panniers
• a triple or double crankset with a very low gear small chainring. It's difficult to push a loaded bicycle using the 52t chainring. The crankset can use an "outdated" square taper bottom bracket.
• 8-speed. It's cheap, easily adjustable and available everywhere.
• shifters that can work in the friction mode if they fail to index. Usually bar-end shifters.
• a handlebar of your choice
• cantilever or long-reach (49-57mm) brakes that allow installation of full fenders
• 32-42mm 700c kevlar-belt tires like Panaracer Pacela Tourguard
• a Brooks B-17 saddle

The Salsa Marrakesh is an ugly bike, but it should work.
https://salsacycles.com/bikes/marrake..._flatbar_deore

The Velo Orange Campeur is more classic.
https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...eur-frame.html

you buy the parts and put them on your bike , you get the same parts , and make it easy ...

Heavy wheels are a little bit of a compromise, but it's not like people all over the world are dying of exhaustion because they tried to ride a mountain bike on pavement -- especially if the tread is sufficiently smooth. Touring bikes should have heavy-duty wheels anyways.