Cable routing problem with cross levers
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie

Joined: Nov 2016
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Cable routing problem with cross levers
Hi guys
I'm building a new touring bike with Gevenalle shifters which have the shifting cables exposed on the end of the brake levers on the drops. I also want to add cross top levers for riding on the tops giving more positions over a long journey.
However, I'm having trouble finding the best way to route the cables. I find the cross levers hit each other so I cannot operate the left lever individually as it hits the cable from the right lever.
I also find activating the cross levers sometimes hit the shifter cables, especially when the bike is > 35 degree turn (which doesn't happen often in real life, but still...)
I feel like I need to compromise on the individual action of the cross levers, which I can accept, though I still would like to know if there is a better way to clean up all this mess.

I'm building a new touring bike with Gevenalle shifters which have the shifting cables exposed on the end of the brake levers on the drops. I also want to add cross top levers for riding on the tops giving more positions over a long journey.
However, I'm having trouble finding the best way to route the cables. I find the cross levers hit each other so I cannot operate the left lever individually as it hits the cable from the right lever.
I also find activating the cross levers sometimes hit the shifter cables, especially when the bike is > 35 degree turn (which doesn't happen often in real life, but still...)
I feel like I need to compromise on the individual action of the cross levers, which I can accept, though I still would like to know if there is a better way to clean up all this mess.

#2
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,589
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move the cross levers farther apart
yours are currently clamping onto the tapered section of bar, which is bad anyway. have to clamp to a cylindrical, not conical area; less the clamps have a tendency to squeeze themselves out of position
get levers with smaller diameter clamps and mount them on the 24.0 section of bar father out.
yours are currently clamping onto the tapered section of bar, which is bad anyway. have to clamp to a cylindrical, not conical area; less the clamps have a tendency to squeeze themselves out of position
get levers with smaller diameter clamps and mount them on the 24.0 section of bar father out.
#3
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Joined: Nov 2016
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I did try them further apart (mounted after the edge of where the matte finish ends) but it doesn't completely solve the problem, they seem to still hit each other if I move the left lever on its own. There is also the problem of the brake cables hitting the shift cables in front and is further exacerbated if I turn to the right
#4
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
As noted, you will need to have the levers clamped on a non-tapered section of the bar; they will certainly walk down the taper and become loose as they are now.
You might try using a 45- or 90-degree brake noodle to turn the corner out of the lever, to avoid interference.
Also, I think you will find that the levers will not move as much as you are moving them when they are cabled up, and merely touching the other cable may not affect their performance.
You might try using a 45- or 90-degree brake noodle to turn the corner out of the lever, to avoid interference.
Also, I think you will find that the levers will not move as much as you are moving them when they are cabled up, and merely touching the other cable may not affect their performance.
#5
As noted, you will need to have the levers clamped on a non-tapered section of the bar; they will certainly walk down the taper and become loose as they are now.
You might try using a 45- or 90-degree brake noodle to turn the corner out of the lever, to avoid interference.
Also, I think you will find that the levers will not move as much as you are moving them when they are cabled up, and merely touching the other cable may not affect their performance.
You might try using a 45- or 90-degree brake noodle to turn the corner out of the lever, to avoid interference.
Also, I think you will find that the levers will not move as much as you are moving them when they are cabled up, and merely touching the other cable may not affect their performance.
#6
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,643
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From: Portland OR
Bikes: 61 Bianchi Specialissima 71 Peugeot G50 7? P'geot PX10 74 Raleigh GranSport 75 P'geot UO8 78? Raleigh Team Pro 82 P'geot PSV 86 P'geot PX 91 Bridgestone MB0 92 B'stone XO1 97 Rans VRex 92 Cannondale R1000 94 B'stone MB5 97 Vitus 997
When the brakes are cabled, the front brake cable will turn down toward the fork crown, while the rear brake cable will curve forward and back around to the top tube. The cables will not be mirror imaged as they are now. So you won't have the same issue.
I would actually mount the cross levers closer to the stem. That's personal preference. You do need to avoid the tapered part of the bar.
Are you using canti brakes? Don't you need a brake hanger (cable stop)?
I would actually mount the cross levers closer to the stem. That's personal preference. You do need to avoid the tapered part of the bar.
Are you using canti brakes? Don't you need a brake hanger (cable stop)?
Last edited by jyl; 05-15-17 at 07:06 AM.
#7
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Joined: Nov 2016
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I originally got these brakes to mount them near the stem yes, but I found that the problem worsens as are closer together.
I have disc brakes and wired so that right lever operates the front and left lever operates the rear (Australian style). I'd prefer it near the stem since it gives more space and plus I can operate it with 2 fingers on the tops. If it's near the sides I feel cramped and it's harder to grip and operate with 2 fingers.
Right now the left lever wraps around the right side of the head tube and then to the down tube on the left side. Alternatively I can wrap it straight down the left side instead of going around the head tube.
I'll have a look at these cable noodles to see if they can help. Any suggestions where I can get them? I see a lot of them are for V brakes.
Here are the four configurations I've tested:
1. UK/Australian style, near the stem (The cables hit each other significantly)

2. American style, near the stem (Similar issue)

3. UK/Australian style, further apart (Left side going straight down to left side feels weird)

4. American style, further apart (This feels the best to be honest, but I'd still prefer right hand = front brake)
I have disc brakes and wired so that right lever operates the front and left lever operates the rear (Australian style). I'd prefer it near the stem since it gives more space and plus I can operate it with 2 fingers on the tops. If it's near the sides I feel cramped and it's harder to grip and operate with 2 fingers.
Right now the left lever wraps around the right side of the head tube and then to the down tube on the left side. Alternatively I can wrap it straight down the left side instead of going around the head tube.
I'll have a look at these cable noodles to see if they can help. Any suggestions where I can get them? I see a lot of them are for V brakes.
Here are the four configurations I've tested:
1. UK/Australian style, near the stem (The cables hit each other significantly)

2. American style, near the stem (Similar issue)

3. UK/Australian style, further apart (Left side going straight down to left side feels weird)

4. American style, further apart (This feels the best to be honest, but I'd still prefer right hand = front brake)
Last edited by mklnz; 05-15-17 at 09:18 AM.







