Noise While Pedaling
#1
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Noise While Pedaling
All,
Brand new to biking, bought a Jamis Earth Cruiser. I love the thing, except for this annoying clicking sounds while pedaling. My wife also got one, and hers does not make the noise. I would take it back to the bike store, but TBH, they aren't spectacular. Hindsight, I would've drove a bit more out of the way for a more knowledgable store... I am very mechanically inclined, and would like to learn how to work on bikes and do the maintenance anyway, to keep this things riding smooth for years to come.
Brand new to biking, bought a Jamis Earth Cruiser. I love the thing, except for this annoying clicking sounds while pedaling. My wife also got one, and hers does not make the noise. I would take it back to the bike store, but TBH, they aren't spectacular. Hindsight, I would've drove a bit more out of the way for a more knowledgable store... I am very mechanically inclined, and would like to learn how to work on bikes and do the maintenance anyway, to keep this things riding smooth for years to come.
#3
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The first step of the diagnostic process is to listen and note the nature of the sound and the frequency.
If, for example the noise is a click or creak synchronous with pedaling (ie. once or twice per crank revolution), that would point to something in the cranks, pedals or BB, but not always so. If slower than once per crank revolution, and more like every second revolution or slower, then possibly the chain, or if faster, ie. once per wheel revolution, then look to the wheels. Random noises, not tied exactly to wheel or crank revolutions point so something loose anywhere on the bike.
If, for example the noise is a click or creak synchronous with pedaling (ie. once or twice per crank revolution), that would point to something in the cranks, pedals or BB, but not always so. If slower than once per crank revolution, and more like every second revolution or slower, then possibly the chain, or if faster, ie. once per wheel revolution, then look to the wheels. Random noises, not tied exactly to wheel or crank revolutions point so something loose anywhere on the bike.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
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Joined: May 2017
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The first step of the diagnostic process is to listen and note the nature of the sound and the frequency.
If, for example the noise is a click or creak synchronous with pedaling (ie. once or twice per crank revolution), that would point to something in the cranks, pedals or BB, but not always so. If slower than once per crank revolution, and more like every second revolution or slower, then possibly the chain, or if faster, ie. once per wheel revolution, then look to the wheels. Random noises, not tied exactly to wheel or crank revolutions point so something loose anywhere on the bike.
If, for example the noise is a click or creak synchronous with pedaling (ie. once or twice per crank revolution), that would point to something in the cranks, pedals or BB, but not always so. If slower than once per crank revolution, and more like every second revolution or slower, then possibly the chain, or if faster, ie. once per wheel revolution, then look to the wheels. Random noises, not tied exactly to wheel or crank revolutions point so something loose anywhere on the bike.
#5
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
OK, the video might have helped, but in the end you are the eyes and ears.
This isn't the classic click we see all the time, so I have questions. I suspect that it might be chain related and wonder if the chain tension is right.
Specifically, is the chain tight or is Rhee visible slack, which you can verify by seeing if there's freedom to move the middle of either chord up and down, or not. You may also compare to the other bike.
Report back for the next step.
This isn't the classic click we see all the time, so I have questions. I suspect that it might be chain related and wonder if the chain tension is right.
Specifically, is the chain tight or is Rhee visible slack, which you can verify by seeing if there's freedom to move the middle of either chord up and down, or not. You may also compare to the other bike.
Report back for the next step.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
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It is tight, but not overly tight. I can push the chain up/down with my finger, it will deflect about 3/8", or so.
Could it be the chain is too tight? It seems about the same, maybe slightly tighter, than the other bike we got.
Could it be the chain is too tight? It seems about the same, maybe slightly tighter, than the other bike we got.
#7
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Loosen the right side axle nut and bring that side forward a hair (push the wheel over between the chain stays a bit). Then loosen the left, and bring that in also so the wheel is centered between the chainstays again.
Keep in mind that you only need move the wheel a hair to achieve the goal, which is roughly 1/8-1/4" free vertical play at the center of the chain loop.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
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So, I loosened my hair up a bit, as advised above, and I no longer have that noise! Whew, Thanks. Still isn't completely silent, but much much better. Now I need to figure out how to true up the wheels... Front wheel is a little out.
#9
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Slowly turn the pedals while holding some tension on the chain by pushing it up or down with a finger. Note that it's safest to push up the lower chord from below, so there's no chance of getting a finger caught between the chain and sprocket.
You'll likely find that the amount of slack varies as you turn the pedals. Run through a few turns until you have a sense of the tightest position. That's where the 1/8" guideline applies, so there's the possibility that you might have to move the wheel forward a bit more.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#10
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OK, you're almost home regarding the chain, and it's time to follow up.
Slowly turn the pedals while holding some tension on the chain by pushing it up or down with a finger. Note that it's safest to push up the lower chord from below, so there's no chance of getting a finger caught between the chain and sprocket.
You'll likely find that the amount of slack varies as you turn the pedals. Run through a few turns until you have a sense of the tightest position. That's where the 1/8" guideline applies, so there's the possibility that you might have to move the wheel forward a bit more.
Slowly turn the pedals while holding some tension on the chain by pushing it up or down with a finger. Note that it's safest to push up the lower chord from below, so there's no chance of getting a finger caught between the chain and sprocket.
You'll likely find that the amount of slack varies as you turn the pedals. Run through a few turns until you have a sense of the tightest position. That's where the 1/8" guideline applies, so there's the possibility that you might have to move the wheel forward a bit more.
#11
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The fact that loosening it reduced but didn't eliminate the noise, suggests that there's still a tight spot.
BTW, the fact that they delivered the bike in this condition makes your "less than spectacular" comment an understatement.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#12
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Yes, the chain must ALWAYS have some slack.
The fact that loosening it reduced but didn't eliminate the noise, suggests that there's still a tight spot.
BTW, the fact that they delivered the bike in this condition makes your "less than spectacular" comment an understatement.
The fact that loosening it reduced but didn't eliminate the noise, suggests that there's still a tight spot.
BTW, the fact that they delivered the bike in this condition makes your "less than spectacular" comment an understatement.
You have no idea. Just the quick version... We looked for bikes for a few weeks, hit all the local bike stores, and a guy who sells & repairs (Sun beach cruisers new, rest used) out of his garage. Of everything we rode, we both liked the Jamis Earth cruisers the best. I also liked an Electra Townie, but liked the "swooped" handlebars better. The color my wife liked (green) they had in stock- ready to go, just needed to adjust the seat a bit. I wanted black, they didn't have one, but ordered (luckily) two and said they'd be there in two days. Called me when it came in and I went to pick them up!
Noticed right away the front wheel wasn't true. Guy said no big deal, he'll take care of it. Come back in half-hour... Left, came back and wheel was great, chain was fine, cool! Still, why wasn't the wheel even looked at, puzzles me? Fast forward a could days... I noticed (terminology might be a bit off) the cup on the headset was loose, spinning. wifes was tight. Also, seat was extremely loose- not the post, but the seat on the post. Being brand new, I took it back and he tightened the seat, but informed me the headset nut (?) was stripped, and he would have to order one in... He gave me the option to just take the other bike he ordered instead of being down and waiting on parts, which seemed fine (and partially my fault, I didn't test it- figured it was good being that it was out on the floor), but when I got home, noticed the chain noise, as well as the front tire, again, not true.
Being these arent exactly (to me, at least) cheap bikes, I want to keep them riding good, so figured I would just start now learning how to do maintenance, rather than going back there again. I will probably take the bikes to the guy who repairs in his garage for any future issues.
#13
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Also, I played with the chain a bit more today, and we are good to go. No more noises. It does "click" sometimes when riding, but I think that may be due to the cruiser brake/style, it happens when I let off, cruise for a bit, then start to pedal again. Like it is engaging, if that makes sense?
I must say also, I really, REALLY, appreciate the time you have taken to help me out.
I must say also, I really, REALLY, appreciate the time you have taken to help me out.
#14
I thought I'd add to this as I recently had a creak\click coming from my bike when I pedaled. I thought it emanated from the crankset/BB and occurred once per crank revolution. I tried pedaling one-footed with left/right and it was still there. Oiled my chain, removed the crank and basically tried almost everything. Finally, when I changed my rear derailleur hangar, the noise was gone. I had a fall perhaps a year ago, and had the hangar straightened by my LBS, but I think it must have bent back on its own since. Perhaps I should've just bought a new one then and saved myself the hours of noise hunting!
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