Practical limit for number of rear cogs in the future?
#51
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I believe true automatics are easy to build, but difficult to make nice to ride, as the bike doesn't know what you're planning/why you're slacking off or spinning up.
A shift under power will be harder on the gear, and quite surprising.
But maybe one could add a torque sensor to deal with that.
For my solo rides/commutes, i think it could work rather well even w/o a torque sensor.
Can't come up with a catchy name at the moment, maybe "utility" mode.
I don't try for any KOMs, I don't socialize.
It's strictly business.
Staying on power, in the zone.
While waiting on that, the first two features I'd like to see (one already on the way in) to do away with this front/rear shift stuff.
Toggle the button one way for a higher gear, Another for a lower gear.
The bike will figure out which derailer to move, and how.
(Frankly it's embarrassing that bike riders for so long accepted that the same hand action would have reverse effects on the overall pedalling experience depending on if it's a front or rear shift. Couldn't anyone spell "user friendly" back in the days?)
Then there's "auto-return" or "auto-start".
Maybe call it speed matching?
Bring the ol' FFS back, and have the bike automatically keep the drivetrain in a gear where I can apply power the moment I'm done coasting or braking.
I'd like that too, particularly on my commuter.
In urban riding, it happens quite often that I get distracted by something else when approaching an intersection that I forget to select a useful starter gear before coming to a stop.
One thing I've asked about before is a related, but sorta inversed question: how small increments can a rider actually benefit from? 5-8-12%?
This, I feel, is an overlooked or ignored feature.
I could easily specify the speed range that 90-95% of my commuting is done in.
That speed range translates into a gearing range.
Splitting that gearing range into finer increments/more ratios than my knees would actually notice would just be wasted engineering for me.
There ought to be a recommended, or ideal number of gears for each given speed range.
I could probably be quite comfy commuting on a 1x10 or 1x11 setup three out of four seasons.
But would need more range when winter comes around.
A shift under power will be harder on the gear, and quite surprising.
But maybe one could add a torque sensor to deal with that.
For my solo rides/commutes, i think it could work rather well even w/o a torque sensor.
Can't come up with a catchy name at the moment, maybe "utility" mode.
I don't try for any KOMs, I don't socialize.
It's strictly business.
Staying on power, in the zone.
While waiting on that, the first two features I'd like to see (one already on the way in) to do away with this front/rear shift stuff.
Toggle the button one way for a higher gear, Another for a lower gear.
The bike will figure out which derailer to move, and how.
(Frankly it's embarrassing that bike riders for so long accepted that the same hand action would have reverse effects on the overall pedalling experience depending on if it's a front or rear shift. Couldn't anyone spell "user friendly" back in the days?)
Then there's "auto-return" or "auto-start".
Maybe call it speed matching?
Bring the ol' FFS back, and have the bike automatically keep the drivetrain in a gear where I can apply power the moment I'm done coasting or braking.
I'd like that too, particularly on my commuter.
In urban riding, it happens quite often that I get distracted by something else when approaching an intersection that I forget to select a useful starter gear before coming to a stop.
One thing I've asked about before is a related, but sorta inversed question: how small increments can a rider actually benefit from? 5-8-12%?
This, I feel, is an overlooked or ignored feature.
I could easily specify the speed range that 90-95% of my commuting is done in.
That speed range translates into a gearing range.
Splitting that gearing range into finer increments/more ratios than my knees would actually notice would just be wasted engineering for me.
There ought to be a recommended, or ideal number of gears for each given speed range.
I could probably be quite comfy commuting on a 1x10 or 1x11 setup three out of four seasons.
But would need more range when winter comes around.
#52
Senior Member
I was thinking today, there has to be a practical limit for the number of cogs for a rear wheel to have. Today, we have up to 12 speeds, but will that trend continue? 13? 14? 15? Expanded rear dropout spacing? Even if they expand the dropout spacing, the wheel dish gets to be so bad that it'd be impossible to build a long lasting wheel.
When do you think the cog "expansion" will stop? Or what do you think will enable the next "number of speeds" revolution? Hyper efficient IGH's combined with cassettes (like SRAM dual drive)? Or will it be the bottom bracket 2 speed cranksets?
When do you think the cog "expansion" will stop? Or what do you think will enable the next "number of speeds" revolution? Hyper efficient IGH's combined with cassettes (like SRAM dual drive)? Or will it be the bottom bracket 2 speed cranksets?
#53
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A typical 6 speed cassette, widely available one, starts with 14 T sprocket. e.g. 14-28, or 14-32 for MTB.
Go to 7 speeds - all you get is one more smaller sprocket. Like 13-28 - 13-32.
8 speeds? Unless paying more than double the price, you get another gear you seldom use except on downhills:
12-28, 12-32, even more often 11 starting cassettes.
More sprockets? Sure - but you're still stuck with 11, or 12 T smallest sprocket. 13, or 14T starting ones, quite more useful to riding that isn't for sports (only).
For me (and most non-racing cyclists IMO), a 7 speed 14-15-16-17-19-23-28 cassette would be better than an 11 speed 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28 one. The latter one is a lot more expensive and calls for more cross chaining from the big ring on a triple setup, while gives me nothing I really need.
#54
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A modest proposal:
Make 1/2 inch pitch chain obsolete.
The 12.7mm -- 1/2 inch pitch chain is way too big. It's heavy and limits the cog choices.
It's time to bring back the Shimano "10 pitch", 10mm chain. Or even smaller.
Make the chain narrower, too. Now you can fit 15 cogs.
In 1/2 inch equivalents, 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 22 25 28 32 36. Lots of close shifts and gears for steep hills.
Since we are redesigning everything, allow for more variation in the chainring sizes. Not fitting smaller than 34 chainrings was short sighted.
12.7mm vs 10 mm equivalent ratios (rounded to the nearest whole tooth):
10 tooth cog is the same as a 13 cog in 10mm.
20 tooth to 25
30 tooth to 38
34 chainring to 43.
50 chainring to 64
There's a limit to the diameter of the smallest cog that still fits on the cassette body. So the whole assembly can't just shrink down to 80% of the current sizes. Or can it?
Make 1/2 inch pitch chain obsolete.
The 12.7mm -- 1/2 inch pitch chain is way too big. It's heavy and limits the cog choices.
It's time to bring back the Shimano "10 pitch", 10mm chain. Or even smaller.
Make the chain narrower, too. Now you can fit 15 cogs.
In 1/2 inch equivalents, 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 22 25 28 32 36. Lots of close shifts and gears for steep hills.
Since we are redesigning everything, allow for more variation in the chainring sizes. Not fitting smaller than 34 chainrings was short sighted.
12.7mm vs 10 mm equivalent ratios (rounded to the nearest whole tooth):
10 tooth cog is the same as a 13 cog in 10mm.
20 tooth to 25
30 tooth to 38
34 chainring to 43.
50 chainring to 64
There's a limit to the diameter of the smallest cog that still fits on the cassette body. So the whole assembly can't just shrink down to 80% of the current sizes. Or can it?
Last edited by rm -rf; 05-31-17 at 06:05 AM.
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Bicycle is my only means of transport, used for recreation as well. As far as gearing goes, I'm quite happy with 3x6 drivetrain(s). One more thing:
A typical 6 speed cassette, widely available one, starts with 14 T sprocket. e.g. 14-28, or 14-32 for MTB.
Go to 7 speeds - all you get is one more smaller sprocket. Like 13-28 - 13-32.
8 speeds? Unless paying more than double the price, you get another gear you seldom use except on downhills:
12-28, 12-32, even more often 11 starting cassettes.
More sprockets? Sure - but you're still stuck with 11, or 12 T smallest sprocket. 13, or 14T starting ones, quite more useful to riding that isn't for sports (only).
For me (and most non-racing cyclists IMO), a 7 speed 14-15-16-17-19-23-28 cassette would be better than an 11 speed 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28 one. The latter one is a lot more expensive and calls for more cross chaining from the big ring on a triple setup, while gives me nothing I really need.
A typical 6 speed cassette, widely available one, starts with 14 T sprocket. e.g. 14-28, or 14-32 for MTB.
Go to 7 speeds - all you get is one more smaller sprocket. Like 13-28 - 13-32.
8 speeds? Unless paying more than double the price, you get another gear you seldom use except on downhills:
12-28, 12-32, even more often 11 starting cassettes.
More sprockets? Sure - but you're still stuck with 11, or 12 T smallest sprocket. 13, or 14T starting ones, quite more useful to riding that isn't for sports (only).
For me (and most non-racing cyclists IMO), a 7 speed 14-15-16-17-19-23-28 cassette would be better than an 11 speed 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28 one. The latter one is a lot more expensive and calls for more cross chaining from the big ring on a triple setup, while gives me nothing I really need.
Last edited by skoda2; 05-31-17 at 06:42 AM.
#57
Senior Member
fwiw and a a bit off topic, I see electronic shifting (and that enabling automatic shifting) moving into lower cost bikes more rapidly than most would think. I think that will also drive more 1xX setups?
why?
cost and simplicity. Electronic wireless will eliminate a lot of cabling, making bikes cheaper. going 1xX reduces cost by not having to have the front shifter mechanism, software and shift botton. Once electronic is common, it is not that big a deal to go automated
why?
cost and simplicity. Electronic wireless will eliminate a lot of cabling, making bikes cheaper. going 1xX reduces cost by not having to have the front shifter mechanism, software and shift botton. Once electronic is common, it is not that big a deal to go automated
For me it doesn't matter, as I use a triple crank and therefore don't exist in the industry's eyes. So I'll sit on the sidelines and continue frankenbiking as long as I can, to get wider gear ranges. Shimano's E-Tube project looks interesting though, at least until some bean counter shuts it down.
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I think Porsche has a GPS-enable transmission algorithm that "looks ahead" and anticipates what gear will be needed "next". Combine that with some sort of heart-rate or glucose-level monitoring technology and you could have a bicycle transmission that would figure out what gear is "optimum".
....
....
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#60
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Bicycle is my only means of transport, used for recreation as well. As far as gearing goes, I'm quite happy with 3x6 drivetrain(s). One more thing:
A typical 6 speed cassette, widely available one, starts with 14 T sprocket. e.g. 14-28, or 14-32 for MTB.
Go to 7 speeds - all you get is one more smaller sprocket. Like 13-28 - 13-32.
8 speeds? Unless paying more than double the price, you get another gear you seldom use except on downhills:
12-28, 12-32, even more often 11 starting cassettes.
More sprockets? Sure - but you're still stuck with 11, or 12 T smallest sprocket. 13, or 14T starting ones, quite more useful to riding that isn't for sports (only).
For me (and most non-racing cyclists IMO), a 7 speed 14-15-16-17-19-23-28 cassette would be better than an 11 speed 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28 one. The latter one is a lot more expensive and calls for more cross chaining from the big ring on a triple setup, while gives me nothing I really need.
A typical 6 speed cassette, widely available one, starts with 14 T sprocket. e.g. 14-28, or 14-32 for MTB.
Go to 7 speeds - all you get is one more smaller sprocket. Like 13-28 - 13-32.
8 speeds? Unless paying more than double the price, you get another gear you seldom use except on downhills:
12-28, 12-32, even more often 11 starting cassettes.
More sprockets? Sure - but you're still stuck with 11, or 12 T smallest sprocket. 13, or 14T starting ones, quite more useful to riding that isn't for sports (only).
For me (and most non-racing cyclists IMO), a 7 speed 14-15-16-17-19-23-28 cassette would be better than an 11 speed 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28 one. The latter one is a lot more expensive and calls for more cross chaining from the big ring on a triple setup, while gives me nothing I really need.
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42-11 gives roughly the same gear ratio as 53-14, but the latter combo makes the (rear) chainring last a lot longer, and is more mechanically efficient (lower mechanical losses).
#63
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That's basically what the Schlumpf Mountain and Speed Drives are. The Mountain version has the higher gear at 1:1 and has a lower second gear available while the Speed version provides a higher than 1:1 high gear. But I'm not sure there's really that much more loss in a multi-gear IG vs. one that only has two or 3 gears.
I am not sure if I will be ready to trade my Rohloff for it but I am considering it within N+1 rule
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Pinion may become more popular, https://pinion.eu/en/
-Jeremy
#65
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I can't believe it took 62 replies to get to a Pinion-fitted bike. The future is no cassettes, no chains. It's gearboxes. They're already making 18-speed gearboxes with 636% range, and people are riding them for tens of thousands of kilometers with zero maintenance. Also, it makes the frames proprietary. And if the cycling industry loves anything, it's getting as absolutely proprietary as technically possible. Lefty forks, Shimano levers that don't work with anything outside their own specific product line, anything electronic, etc...
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I can't believe it took 62 replies to get to a Pinion-fitted bike. The future is no cassettes, no chains. It's gearboxes. They're already making 18-speed gearboxes with 636% range, and people are riding them for tens of thousands of kilometers with zero maintenance. Also, it makes the frames proprietary. And if the cycling industry loves anything, it's getting as absolutely proprietary as technically possible. Lefty forks, Shimano levers that don't work with anything outside their own specific product line, anything electronic, etc...
Which is not many people at all.
I don't know when, if ever, IGH's will enter the mainstream. Right now, you can buy bikes with 3x8 systems which shift perfectly and disk brakes for $300. Whereas pinion bikes start at $5K.
#67
Non omnino gravis
Maybe. If you don't mind your bike being 3 lbs. heavier. :-)
Which is not many people at all.
I don't know when, if ever, IGH's will enter the mainstream. Right now, you can buy bikes with 3x8 systems which shift perfectly and disk brakes for $300. Whereas pinion bikes start at $5K.
Which is not many people at all.
I don't know when, if ever, IGH's will enter the mainstream. Right now, you can buy bikes with 3x8 systems which shift perfectly and disk brakes for $300. Whereas pinion bikes start at $5K.
And just as I don't care, the guy that buys a $300 bike doesn't give a crap what it weighs, or even how many gears it has. Weight concerns are for the idiots that buy $250 titanium cassettes that last 1500 miles.
And sure, a Pinion bike is $5k. One company in Germany makes the gearboxes. Give it time.
#68
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Three whole pounds? Oh my stars! My steel frame weighs double or triple what some hi-mod CF frame would weigh.
And just as I don't care, the guy that buys a $300 bike doesn't give a crap what it weighs, or even how many gears it has. Weight concerns are for the idiots that buy $250 titanium cassettes that last 1500 miles.
And sure, a Pinion bike is $5k. One company in Germany makes the gearboxes. Give it time.
And just as I don't care, the guy that buys a $300 bike doesn't give a crap what it weighs, or even how many gears it has. Weight concerns are for the idiots that buy $250 titanium cassettes that last 1500 miles.
And sure, a Pinion bike is $5k. One company in Germany makes the gearboxes. Give it time.
$5K in the road market gets you dual suspension, Ultegra Di2 electronic shifting, carbon frame and hydraulic discs. And this is from specialized known for charging a premium. This feature and value spec is so superior to IGH alone it's game over. And don't expect standard drivetrains to remain at a standstill.
IGH's are in a catch 22; they need market share in order to cut cost and potentially reduce weight with greater R&D budgets. The problem is, the touring market, where light weight is not essential, is tiny. MTB's could make good use of the gear range, but IGH's have virtually no presence there either.
Let's face it: derailleur drivetrains are so good, so light and so inexpensive, 99+% of cyclists will neither have the need nor desire to look for an alternative. And conventional drivetrains have just taken a major leap forward with electronic and also with wireless.
Derailleurs are here to stay. IGH's are CLOSE to being irrelevant, but I hope they stick around as they are a cool product.
#69
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#70
Non omnino gravis
#72
Senior Member
Maybe. If you don't mind your bike being 3 lbs. heavier. :-)
Which is not many people at all.
I don't know when, if ever, IGH's will enter the mainstream. Right now, you can buy bikes with 3x8 systems which shift perfectly and disk brakes for $300. Whereas pinion bikes start at $5K.
Which is not many people at all.
I don't know when, if ever, IGH's will enter the mainstream. Right now, you can buy bikes with 3x8 systems which shift perfectly and disk brakes for $300. Whereas pinion bikes start at $5K.
Last edited by Racing Dan; 06-01-17 at 12:50 AM.
#73
Senior Member
I can't believe it took 62 replies to get to a Pinion-fitted bike. The future is no cassettes, no chains. It's gearboxes. They're already making 18-speed gearboxes with 636% range, and people are riding them for tens of thousands of kilometers with zero maintenance. Also, it makes the frames proprietary. And if the cycling industry loves anything, it's getting as absolutely proprietary as technically possible. Lefty forks, Shimano levers that don't work with anything outside their own specific product line, anything electronic, etc...
Yep, 636% range (more than my Rohloff), rated for 60 000 kms.
Only downside for me personally - no easy retrofit to non-Pinion specific frames and so no easy way to transfer between bikes (right now it takes me about 2 hrs to relace rohloff to different rim and put it on another bike, I switch once or twice a year between cross frame and 29+ frame)
#74
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So how much time to an electronic, automatic Pinion? That would be great!
#75
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Sheldon agrees.
Nanodrive Bicycle Chain Drive System
Nanodrive Bicycle Chain Drive System