crank cap removal - how do i ?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
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crank cap removal - how do i ?
I've gone and done it now!
not sure if it was over-enthusiasm or the plastic cap had just UV ray degradation, but I've managed to remove the entire outside of the cap but left the threaded part inside the crank. so i'm not getting a socket or crank puller in there now!
anyone suggest a way to dig this out? could I dissolve it was acetone or something equally nasty?
thanks.
oh, yeah - I need two "Sugino" dust caps, too!
not sure if it was over-enthusiasm or the plastic cap had just UV ray degradation, but I've managed to remove the entire outside of the cap but left the threaded part inside the crank. so i'm not getting a socket or crank puller in there now!
anyone suggest a way to dig this out? could I dissolve it was acetone or something equally nasty?
thanks.
oh, yeah - I need two "Sugino" dust caps, too!
#2
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,780
Likes: 17
From: Upstate NY
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
A chisel or pick of some sorts, some elbow grease, and a little careful determination.
...at least that's been the consensus when the topic's come up before:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...eck-frame.html
...at least that's been the consensus when the topic's come up before:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...eck-frame.html
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,180
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
I'm thinking a small metal tool, perhaps a sharpend paper clip, a pick of some sort (or the right dental tool). Keep it small so damage to threads stays very local and the odds are the crank remover will sort all the damage out when it is used. (Damaging the threads until the remover cannot be started or wrecks th threads is a big problem. With force, you can still get the crank off but its life as a useful bike part is over.
Ben
Ben
#4
Generally bewildered

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,038
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From: Eastern PA, USA
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior
Get an exacto keyhole saw. Or, if you can't easily find that, a knife with a blade edge that is parallel to the axis of the knife handle (like the pic below). Take that knife and place its sharp edge against the face of a sharp file. Whack it with a hammer. The file should cut little "teeth" in the blade. But a keyhole saw is better.
Saw several radial cuts in the remaining plastic cap, almost to the crank arm threads. Then use a chisel to break off part of the cap. The rest of the cap should then easily be removed using an awl, or a dental pic.
Saw several radial cuts in the remaining plastic cap, almost to the crank arm threads. Then use a chisel to break off part of the cap. The rest of the cap should then easily be removed using an awl, or a dental pic.
#6
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,402
Likes: 5,333
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Usually you can just use a punch to unthread the remains. If the plastic shatters more, big deal. If enough shatters, it will just fall out without unthreading.
N.B. ther caps aren't strictly necessary, but they do help keep the extractor threads clean. If your bottom bracket has a "female" type axle, you can get Allen head bolts with integral caps to keep the threads clean.
N.B. ther caps aren't strictly necessary, but they do help keep the extractor threads clean. If your bottom bracket has a "female" type axle, you can get Allen head bolts with integral caps to keep the threads clean.
#7
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Joined: Aug 2011
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those are what my Surly LHT has. if they would work, it will save me the hassle searching for covers. right now, the penetrating oil is earning its keep so it might be a couple of days before I summon the courage to attack the crank bolts.
as easy as the rest of the bike fell apart, I think the crank bolts will make up for gained time.
as easy as the rest of the bike fell apart, I think the crank bolts will make up for gained time.
#8
Nigel
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,991
Likes: 7
From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: 1980s and 1990s steel: CyclePro, Nishiki, Schwinn, SR, Trek........
Get an exacto keyhole saw. Or, if you can't easily find that, a knife with a blade edge that is parallel to the axis of the knife handle (like the pic below). Take that knife and place its sharp edge against the face of a sharp file. Whack it with a hammer. The file should cut little "teeth" in the blade. But a keyhole saw is better.
Saw several radial cuts in the remaining plastic cap, almost to the crank arm threads. Then use a chisel to break off part of the cap. The rest of the cap should then easily be removed using an awl, or a dental pic.
Saw several radial cuts in the remaining plastic cap, almost to the crank arm threads. Then use a chisel to break off part of the cap. The rest of the cap should then easily be removed using an awl, or a dental pic.
Or hit the plastic with dry ice or liquid nitrogen, followed by a tap with a punch or screwdriver and the plastic will shatter.
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