Installing Pedals for the first time - Lithium Grease Ok?
06-18-17 | 11:47 AM
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Installing Pedals for the first time - Lithium Grease Ok?
Hi everyone!
I recently bought my first road bike and I have been using platform pedals for the past month on it. I like to learn to do things on my own and I will be installing my pedals as soon as I get my cycling shoes for them.
I was looking around my house for some grease to use and I found: Lubriplate AERO Multi Purpose Lithium Grease.
Looked on amazon and here is the description:
Would this be ok to use for my pedals or should I look around to see if I have any other grease in my house or buy something else?
I recently bought my first road bike and I have been using platform pedals for the past month on it. I like to learn to do things on my own and I will be installing my pedals as soon as I get my cycling shoes for them.
I was looking around my house for some grease to use and I found: Lubriplate AERO Multi Purpose Lithium Grease.
Looked on amazon and here is the description:
Lubriplate Aero, L0113-086, CTN 36 1¾ Oz Tubes LUBRIPLATE AERO LUBRIPLATE Aero is a neutral lithium base lubricant, manufactured with a light viscosity mineral oil that remains plastic down to -70°F, has an ASTM Dropping Point of over 350°F and is an NLGI No. 1 consistency. LUBRIPLATE Aero is recommended for a large variety of applications: Trailer landing gear cases Speedometers, odometers and tachometers Parking meters -- Change boxes Instruments -- Gaming machines Garage and door opening mechanisms Cables of various types Steering columns and gear cases TV antenna gear boxes O-Ring and seal lubrication Railway switch and signal equipment Advantages - Low Torque start-up capability - Corrosion and oxidation resistant - Long lasting film strength over a wide temperature range - Outstanding aniline point of base oil offers excellent compatibility with exotic metals, plastics and rubber materials Typical Tests Type of Base Lithium Worked Penetration @ 77°F 310 to 340 NLGI No. 1 Mineral Oil Viscosity SUS @ 100°F 100 cSt @ 40°C 19 Aniline Point 205+ ASTM Dropping Point 381°F/194°C Norma Hoffman Oxidation Bomb Less than 5 psi/1000 Hours Color Off-White Return Policy Returns Our policy lasts 30 days. If 30 days have gone by since your purchase, unfortunately we can't offer you a refund or exchange. To be eligible for a return, your item must be unused and in the same condition that you received it. It must also be in the original packaging. If a seal of a tote, drum, pail, or case is damaged, you will not be eligible for a return. Re-stocking fee applies to all eligible products for return. The re-stocking fee is estimated to be 20 % of the value of the product. All food graded goods are exempt from being returned. To complete your return, we require a receipt or proof of purchase. Please do not send your purchase back without written authorization, granted by Miles Lubricants LLC.
06-18-17 | 11:53 AM
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From: Bozeman
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06-18-17 | 11:56 AM
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I also have found some White Lithium Grease, although it does appear to be a bit old (5-10 yrs maybe?) while the previous grease I mentioned is brand new. I doubt it goes bad but just thought I would mention it.
When I do apply it do I just put it on my finger and rub it on the threads on the crank and pedal?
06-18-17 | 12:32 PM
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Ok thats great.
I also have found some White Lithium Grease, although it does appear to be a bit old (5-10 yrs maybe?) while the previous grease I mentioned is brand new. I doubt it goes bad but just thought I would mention it.
When I do apply it do I just put it on my finger and rub it on the threads on the crank and pedal?
I also have found some White Lithium Grease, although it does appear to be a bit old (5-10 yrs maybe?) while the previous grease I mentioned is brand new. I doubt it goes bad but just thought I would mention it.
When I do apply it do I just put it on my finger and rub it on the threads on the crank and pedal?
You say you're new to this bicycle mechanic stuff, so be sure to note that there is a left pedal and a right pedal and that you turn BOTH left and right pedals toward the Front of the bike to Fasten, and the Rear of the bike to Remove! Failure to do so will strip the pedal threads.
Have fun!
06-18-17 | 12:37 PM
#7
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From: Llano Estacado
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You won't know you have a problem until you attempt to remove the pedals. Because of the dissimilar metals, nickel based anti-seize compound is better and will prevent corrosion. It's available at many farm supply stores and good hardware stores.
06-18-17 | 04:45 PM
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I agree with the above that Lithium will work just fine but I would remove the pedals a couple of times a year to make sure they don't seize due to galvanic action.
Anklework's suggestion above for nickel-based anti-seize is good but that stuff is pretty expensive unless you buy a blister-pack size...as is the copper-based anti-seize but they do work admirably well. I have those as well as the aluminum-based anti-seize and that's what I use on my bike. I reserve the nickel and copper anti-seizes for my old sports car.
Anklework's suggestion above for nickel-based anti-seize is good but that stuff is pretty expensive unless you buy a blister-pack size...as is the copper-based anti-seize but they do work admirably well. I have those as well as the aluminum-based anti-seize and that's what I use on my bike. I reserve the nickel and copper anti-seizes for my old sports car.
06-18-17 | 05:59 PM
#10
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Don't worry, you'll be fine.
I've been fooling with bikes for over 50 years. I dab whatever grease I have handy when I install pedals. In all that time I've never had a pedal that I couldn't get off.
FWIW, usually the left pedal has an "L" stamped somewhere on the spindle. Other pedals have a series of lines stamped into them to indicate the left hand thread.
I've been fooling with bikes for over 50 years. I dab whatever grease I have handy when I install pedals. In all that time I've never had a pedal that I couldn't get off.
FWIW, usually the left pedal has an "L" stamped somewhere on the spindle. Other pedals have a series of lines stamped into them to indicate the left hand thread.
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06-18-17 | 06:59 PM
#12
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Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Now that I have a couple I use torque wrenches on bottom brackets, cranks and high dollar stems. Everything else i just guess at. Pedals you want to get pretty snug.
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My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
06-18-17 | 07:00 PM
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also I use teflon tape instead. less messy
06-19-17 | 10:25 AM
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Thanks everyone, just installed my pedals. Feels good to do this on my own
Last edited by bazap; 06-19-17 at 10:36 AM.
06-19-17 | 10:40 AM
#15
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Pedals are being installed. Let's not confuse that with bearing loads for balls in races in industrial or mechanized applications. The point here is the grease is being used as an anti-seize.
I've got a high dollar dial torque wrench and I've never used it with a crow's foot to check the torque. Snug is snug. Save the torque wrench for stems, cranks, bottom brackets, top caps etc.
My favorite pedal wrenches are the Var and the old Professional yellow Pedro's, haven't used the new black one yet. I despise my Park professional pedal wrench. It's a preference thing. The angles are just "off" to me.
I've got a high dollar dial torque wrench and I've never used it with a crow's foot to check the torque. Snug is snug. Save the torque wrench for stems, cranks, bottom brackets, top caps etc.
My favorite pedal wrenches are the Var and the old Professional yellow Pedro's, haven't used the new black one yet. I despise my Park professional pedal wrench. It's a preference thing. The angles are just "off" to me.
06-19-17 | 12:18 PM
#16
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Won't the pedals get tighter as they're used? Isn't that one of the reasons that they both tighten by turning the spindles toward the front of the bike?
06-19-17 | 12:47 PM
#17
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If you observe the pedal itself, it actually spins BACKWARDS (or rearwards) as you pedal forward. Counterclockwise on the drive side and clockwise on the non-drive side. Thus, if your pedal bearing freezes stuck, the pedal will actually loosen itself as you pedal forward (a good thing, rather than breaking your ankle). To my understanding, this is why the pedal threads are as they are.
06-21-17 | 10:57 AM
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If you observe the pedal itself, it actually spins BACKWARDS (or rearwards) as you pedal forward. Counterclockwise on the drive side and clockwise on the non-drive side. Thus, if your pedal bearing freezes stuck, the pedal will actually loosen itself as you pedal forward (a good thing, rather than breaking your ankle). To my understanding, this is why the pedal threads are as they are.
06-21-17 | 11:11 AM
#20
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From: Fredericksburg, Va
Bikes: ? Proteous, '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, 'Litespeed Catalyst'94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster
The bearing balls reverse the force. Your pedal looks like it is rotating clockwise from the crank reference (DS) but the bearing reverses that force to the spindle because it is rotating the opposite direction to the pedal race.
It is all reletive.
It is all reletive.
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06-21-17 | 02:40 PM
#21
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From: Chicago area
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession_(mechanical)
Clif Notes version: "It's Complicated!"
BTW, the left-handed threads on the NDS pedal are generally attributed to the Wright brothers! (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wright_Cycle_Company)
Steve
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