rosefarts

I have a pretty standard older Chorus setup, 53-39 and 12-25. It was mostly fine but I am both weaker than I used to be and more interested in the biggest hills around (Colorado, so this can be rather substantial).

Today my much anticipated package showed up in the mail, the 13-29. I suppose I'll have to coast down hills.

Once installed, I ran through the gears. Big ring first, no problems, no hesitation, and even very carefully went for the cross chain. No problem. Gotta love campy.

Next up was the 39, 13 up to 26 was perfect. The final gear, the reason for this purchase, rubs against the top pulley. It's not outrageous. It's not catching or hanging up. It's not going to throw the chain into the spokes or tear my derailler off. It is rubbing though. It's rideable, for the short amount of time I'll be in this gear, I might just leave it.

Is there something position wise I can change? An adjustment that a Campy ignorant such as myself can make?

It actually seems like if I removed a link, it would bring the whole mechanism more forward, and give me that extra mm of clearance I need. I'm sure this would eliminate my ability to cross chain but I don't do that anyway.

Any tips? I've got a 90 mile steep plan for tomorrow. I'd sure like to ride this old lady cassette if I can.

FBOATSB

I was reading a thread somewhere in here today about sliding your rear wheel forward or back in your dropouts to fine tune shifting.

chorlton

Google for B-adjustment screw...

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

Assuming you have one that's the one you adjust to keep the top pulley away from your big cog.

... Oh just noticed from the Sheldon Brown page.

4) Angle adjustment ("B-tension")

Campagnolo do something different.

Shimagnolo

You could try this to get more space between the cog and the top pulley: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...ducts/roadlink

rosefarts

That fixed it. I'm such a campy n00b and a lot of the adjustments are in a slightly different place. I keep missing easy things.

This bike has something like a b tension. It's not quite like the screw that literally moves into the tab on the frame. It's a screw on the under side of the pulley mech that moves the derailer in the same fashion as a traditional b-tension. It's probably going against the end of a spring coil on the inside of the derailer mounting bolt.

chorlton

Excellent :-) Enjoy your 90 miles.