Adjusting front derailleur height.
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2017
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Adjusting front derailleur height.
I am very new at this and I'm trying to adjust the front derailleur correctly. Is there a certain front gear I have to be in before moving the height of the derailleur band up and down so that the outer chain guard is 1-2mm above the largest chainring? Because the videos I've watched seem to have the chain on the smallest gear but if I move it there, the outer chain guard will not line up with the biggest ring. My bike has a triple chainring.
Last edited by JohnSnoh; 07-27-17 at 02:19 PM.
#3
Keepin it Wheel




Joined: Aug 2011
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From: San Diego
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
I've never seen any trick to doing it easier than the hard way:
Shift into the big ring
Decide whether you need to raise or lower the derailleur, and by how much
Shift into the small ring, so the cable is slack
Loosen the band clamp
Adjust the height, guesstimating the amount from what you saw before.
Try not to maladjust the rotation
Tighten the band clamp
Shift into the big ring
Repeat
the short answer to your question is you have to be in the small ring so the cable is slack, otherwise the cable will pull the whole derailleur when you loosen the band clamp.
Can I say 'band clamp' any more times?
This one time, in band clamp...
Shift into the big ring
Decide whether you need to raise or lower the derailleur, and by how much
Shift into the small ring, so the cable is slack
Loosen the band clamp
Adjust the height, guesstimating the amount from what you saw before.
Try not to maladjust the rotation
Tighten the band clamp
Shift into the big ring
Repeat
the short answer to your question is you have to be in the small ring so the cable is slack, otherwise the cable will pull the whole derailleur when you loosen the band clamp.
Can I say 'band clamp' any more times?
This one time, in band clamp...
#5
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
Likes: 2
I've never seen any trick to doing it easier than the hard way:
Shift into the big ring
Decide whether you need to raise or lower the derailleur, and by how much
Shift into the small ring, so the cable is slack
Loosen the band clamp
Adjust the height, guesstimating the amount from what you saw before.
Try not to maladjust the rotation
Tighten the band clamp
Shift into the big ring
Repeat
the short answer to your question is you have to be in the small ring so the cable is slack, otherwise the cable will pull the whole derailleur when you loosen the band clamp.
Can I say 'band clamp' any more times?
This one time, in band clamp...
Shift into the big ring
Decide whether you need to raise or lower the derailleur, and by how much
Shift into the small ring, so the cable is slack
Loosen the band clamp
Adjust the height, guesstimating the amount from what you saw before.
Try not to maladjust the rotation
Tighten the band clamp
Shift into the big ring
Repeat
the short answer to your question is you have to be in the small ring so the cable is slack, otherwise the cable will pull the whole derailleur when you loosen the band clamp.
Can I say 'band clamp' any more times?
This one time, in band clamp...
#6
Keepin it Wheel




Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,969
Likes: 5,246
From: San Diego
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
That's why you check it when the cable is on and you can shift it into the big ring. Try to decide, does it need to go up 1mm? down 2mm? Then try to reproduce that adjustment when the cable is slack, and check it again after it's wired up.
You can move the derailleur cage by hand with the cable detached, it's a fairly strong spring. You don't have to worry about breaking anything, just try to apply the force in about the same place the cable would be pulling, and then it's no different than the cable pulling it. Don't push way down at the end of the cage or anything.
You can move the derailleur cage by hand with the cable detached, it's a fairly strong spring. You don't have to worry about breaking anything, just try to apply the force in about the same place the cable would be pulling, and then it's no different than the cable pulling it. Don't push way down at the end of the cage or anything.
#8
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
Likes: 2
That's why you check it when the cable is on and you can shift it into the big ring. Try to decide, does it need to go up 1mm? down 2mm? Then try to reproduce that adjustment when the cable is slack, and check it again after it's wired up.
You can move the derailleur cage by hand with the cable detached, it's a fairly strong spring. You don't have to worry about breaking anything, just try to apply the force in about the same place the cable would be pulling, and then it's no different than the cable pulling it. Don't push way down at the end of the cage or anything.
You can move the derailleur cage by hand with the cable detached, it's a fairly strong spring. You don't have to worry about breaking anything, just try to apply the force in about the same place the cable would be pulling, and then it's no different than the cable pulling it. Don't push way down at the end of the cage or anything.
Also, I'm a little confused on my left shifter. It's a lever type shifter with a lever on top that shifts it from 3-2-1 and a bottom lever that shifts from 1-2-3. This is weird to me because the right shifter's top lever shifts from 1 to a progressively harder gear all the way to 7, but the left's top lever shifts to an easier, smaller gear so they are reversed Is this right?
#9
Keepin it Wheel




Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,969
Likes: 5,246
From: San Diego
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
Yes they are reversed in terms of whether top/bottom makes it easier/slower for uphills, and which direction makes it faster/harder for downhills.
They are unified in that the big lever requires more force, and it pulls cable so that the corresponding derailleur moves the chain to the bigger cog (more teeth). The other lever releases cable so that the spring in the derailleur can allow it to fall back and move the chain to a smaller cog.
The oppositeness comes because the gear ratio is front teeth divided by rear teeth, so since rear teeth is in the denominator, more teeth means slower, while front teeth in the numerator means more teeth=faster.
They are unified in that the big lever requires more force, and it pulls cable so that the corresponding derailleur moves the chain to the bigger cog (more teeth). The other lever releases cable so that the spring in the derailleur can allow it to fall back and move the chain to a smaller cog.
The oppositeness comes because the gear ratio is front teeth divided by rear teeth, so since rear teeth is in the denominator, more teeth means slower, while front teeth in the numerator means more teeth=faster.
#10
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
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I think I did it! It doesn't rub in any of the 3 gears anymore and goes up the gears easily. However, going down from 2nd to the smallest ring takes a little bit and the derailleur rubs for a few seconds before the chain goes to it. I've loosened the cable tension and I don't think that's working. Is there anything to adjust to make it go into the small ring easier?
That makes sense. Thanks for clearing it up!
Yes they are reversed in terms of whether top/bottom makes it easier/slower for uphills, and which direction makes it faster/harder for downhills.
They are unified in that the big lever requires more force, and it pulls cable so that the corresponding derailleur moves the chain to the bigger cog (more teeth). The other lever releases cable so that the spring in the derailleur can allow it to fall back and move the chain to a smaller cog.
The oppositeness comes because the gear ratio is front teeth divided by rear teeth, so since rear teeth is in the denominator, more teeth means slower, while front teeth in the numerator means more teeth=faster.
They are unified in that the big lever requires more force, and it pulls cable so that the corresponding derailleur moves the chain to the bigger cog (more teeth). The other lever releases cable so that the spring in the derailleur can allow it to fall back and move the chain to a smaller cog.
The oppositeness comes because the gear ratio is front teeth divided by rear teeth, so since rear teeth is in the denominator, more teeth means slower, while front teeth in the numerator means more teeth=faster.
#11
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
Likes: 2
I've encountered a different issue with the front derailleur. The outer guard is a little too close to the biggest chainring and the high screw adjustment doesn't move it far enough outward. Is there a way I can move it further out?
#12
Keepin it Wheel




Joined: Aug 2011
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From: San Diego
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
The screw doesn't move it outwards, it's a limit screw, it limits its motion outwards. If you screw it in, you will push it in. If you loosen it until it is not limiting anything anymore, then the amount it goes out will depend on how far the cable pulls it out. If you want the cable to be pulling it further out, then increase cable tension either by adjusting a fine-tuning barrel adjuster if you have one(at the shifter maybe?), or by reattaching the cable. Shift to small so the cable is slack, loosen the pinch bolt, pull a little (couple mm) cable through the pinch bolt to remove a little slack, tighten the pinch bolt again, then shift in the big ring see how it looks.






