Hello folks, I stripped my 1990 Schwinn Paramount PGD 70 MTB. I'm torn between powder coating or just touching up a few small, minor rust areas. Mainly wondering if powder coating is durable.
I can also have the frame bead blasted only and painting myself.

Thanks!

Depends on who does it, some coaters are better than others. Try and find who has a good reputation in your local area.

I assume by stripped you mean you have removed *everything* and are looking at a frame with detached forks without any other bits. As per jimc101... Some time ago there was a thread where someone got their frame powder coated and things went slightly wrong... Nice job, shame about the nooks, crannies [BB and other threads] and left over hardware [headset].

If it is one of these...

https://budgetbicyclectr.com/schwinn...icycle-20.html

and just touching up a few small, minor rust areas will do the job for you I would be just touching up a few small, minor rust areas.

Powder coat describes the process, but not the material. There are various types of powder coats, and of course a range of diligence among powder coaters.

Quality powder coating is generally more durable than most modern paints applied wet, but probably not as durable than older baked enamel finishes.

Thank you all, now I'm just leaning more towards touching up, that will also preserve the decals and save $$.
chorlton: yes that's the bike exactly. I removed everything including the fixed BB cup. Only thing left is the headset races because I wasn't sure what I was going to do, have it painted or not.

I had a frame and fork powder coated just a couple months ago. I called around for estimates and all the shops I called said they included sandblasting in the price. I paid $150. It looks good and is pretty durable. You'll have to go over the frame with the person doing the powder coating to make sure they know which nooks and crannies can not be coated.

Dan

This bike was powder coated in 1995 and basically looks as good today as it did back then. Some very minor scrapes from using it over the years. It has been ridden across the USA twice. Roger

pay a bit extra and get it painted in a panelbeaters/car body shop.... thats what I will be doing with my 1984 Koga Miyata ... shop around and you will see that it does not cost much more and the quality is 100 times better

you can buy the exact same decals from sites like ebay ....

What?

...if you have the choice, matching and touching up a few small areas is always preferable, IME.

There are a number of issues that can arise in powdercoating that can be painful to address upon reassembly, not the least of which is that you never seem to get to talk to the actual guys doing the spraying of the PC.

There are myriad stories here about threads, headset race seats, and other places on your frame that don't do well with plastic on them, but got it anyway. I have a couple of stories myself, and my guy supposedly has done a lot of bike frames.

Go to a small powdercoating shop, one which does custom auto parts and firearms. The owner of the shop I went to did the spraying. He knew how to protect gasket surfaces and hydraulic fitting threads. I pointed out the areas I didn't want sprayed and they did a great job. I didn't really tell him anything he didn't know and he showed me a BMX bike frame he had done for display.

Do not go to a large job lot shop where your bike frame will be mixed in with three hundred washing machine lids or a production run of lawn furniture.

The powder coat on my bike wore through where a cable rubbed on the frame - no surprise as powder coat is plastic. It has resisted normal bike chemicals - degreasers, lubes and perspiration. A derailleur hanger clamp had no noticeable effect on the coating.


-Tim-

it is a glazing done with an electronically retained polyurethanes, heated to the melting point of the powder.

Ceramics can be applied, and have been for centuries but usually to flat objects.. not being subject to static clinging..


Like quality Paint, It All Depends on Surface Preparation.





...

On the bike in my picture I went to a Powder Shop with the owner and one other worker. They specialize in Street Rods, Harleys and other custom items. The price quoted included all prep work including sand blasting which is required. If anyone touches the surface after the blastingwhole item has to be blasted again as finger prints ruin the coating job. We had a nice 30 minute discussion to make sure we were both on the same page before signing the agreement to do the job. Roger

Thanks again everyone, the experiences with powder coating is good info. I actually have two frames to work on so think on the Schwinn MTB I'll just touch up because the light rusted surfaces are small. My other frame is a 1970's Rauler roadbike frame which I like to make into a singlespeed and get bead blasted and painted professionally with a new color.

Just to throw this out there. Powder shops are like all other trades. There are good and bad.

I've had many bikes powder coated. Mine have always been masked and plugged properly and came out perfectly. Mine have a show car gloss, no orange peel, and are more durable than wet paint. My guy charges $65.00 for a single color and $15.00 extra for a clear coat on top. That's frame, fork, and all prep work.

A two part "Illusion" metal flake powder coat cost $140 and included all prep - stripping the old paint, masking, plugging, etc.

...1970's Rauler's should be marine blue.

Here's the real choice:

Powder coating will give your bike a classy resto-mod look. Touching up the original paint will retain it's classic patina. It's your bike, which do you prefer?

Thanks all tips again. Looks great TimothyH.
Retro: I just don't want rust, hate rust, so decided will just touch up. It's a old bike and just use it as a city bike, not into pretty, just good mechanically but utility.

This is a misconception.

The colors and finishes available are virtually limitless.
Please don't take my word for it. Look for yourself.


-Tim-