Gouges in aluminum frame. Should I worry?
#1
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Gouges in aluminum frame. Should I worry?
While repainting an aluminum frame, my dad used a Dremel to remove some hard-to-reach bits of paint. This resulted in a couple gouges in the aluminum along the bottom of the seat tube, near where it connects with the bottom bracket shell.
I'm planning on taking this bike on a 1200 mile tour of the Midwestern/eastern US in a couple of weeks. Is this something to worry about? For reference, it's a 1980s Cannondale that was never ridden much. Not a "super-light" frame and seems generally pretty robust (except for this, maybe).
I'm planning on taking this bike on a 1200 mile tour of the Midwestern/eastern US in a couple of weeks. Is this something to worry about? For reference, it's a 1980s Cannondale that was never ridden much. Not a "super-light" frame and seems generally pretty robust (except for this, maybe).
#2
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
ride it.
if it were the chain stays that got nicked, or the down tube near the head tube, i'd be worried... seat tubes are a compressed member of the frame.
if it were the chain stays that got nicked, or the down tube near the head tube, i'd be worried... seat tubes are a compressed member of the frame.
#3
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Bikes: 2004 Trek 520, resto-modded 1987 Cannondale SR400, rando-modded 1976 AD Vent Noir; 2019 Wabi Classic; 1989? Burley Duet
Normally I wouldn't agonize so much, but I really want to avoid getting stranded in rural Michigan with a broken frame and 40 pounds of gear...
#4
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I think it'll probably be OK for the length of that trip, but it's a bad place for a stress riser.
The seat tube near the BB is one of the most highly stressed area on a bicycle, being pushed down and rocked with every pedal stroke. Seat tube failures near the BB are among the most common non-crash breaks of older frames. see below

On the bright side, this kind of failure is among the least likely to cause a crash or injury. Speaking from first hand experience, it can be field repaired (won't be pretty) with readily available stuff and a bit of creativity.
So, as I said, enjoy the tour, and after that ride it as long as it lasts, but if/when you start to hear creaks or clicks as you pedal, you know where to check first.
The seat tube near the BB is one of the most highly stressed area on a bicycle, being pushed down and rocked with every pedal stroke. Seat tube failures near the BB are among the most common non-crash breaks of older frames. see below

On the bright side, this kind of failure is among the least likely to cause a crash or injury. Speaking from first hand experience, it can be field repaired (won't be pretty) with readily available stuff and a bit of creativity.
So, as I said, enjoy the tour, and after that ride it as long as it lasts, but if/when you start to hear creaks or clicks as you pedal, you know where to check first.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I didn't mean to alarm you. I just wanted you to understand the realities.
Fatigue failures take time, so while the gouge may have a significant effect on the LONG TERM life of the frame, the odds still favor you completing your trip and riding for a long while afterward.
A factor to consider is the terrain, since standing (or even not standing) with high pedal pressure to climb is the kind of thing that would be hardest on the area. Another is your weight and strength. Lastly there's your riding style, with spinning lower gears being easier on the joint than mashing big gears.
Fatigue failures take time, so while the gouge may have a significant effect on the LONG TERM life of the frame, the odds still favor you completing your trip and riding for a long while afterward.
A factor to consider is the terrain, since standing (or even not standing) with high pedal pressure to climb is the kind of thing that would be hardest on the area. Another is your weight and strength. Lastly there's your riding style, with spinning lower gears being easier on the joint than mashing big gears.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
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Brad
#9
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Bikes: 2004 Trek 520, resto-modded 1987 Cannondale SR400, rando-modded 1976 AD Vent Noir; 2019 Wabi Classic; 1989? Burley Duet
I didn't mean to alarm you. I just wanted you to understand the realities.
Fatigue failures take time, so while the gouge may have a significant effect on the LONG TERM life of the frame, the odds still favor you completing your trip and riding for a long while afterward.
A factor to consider is the terrain, since standing (or even not standing) with high pedal pressure to climb is the kind of thing that would be hardest on the area. Another is your weight and strength. Lastly there's your riding style, with spinning lower gears being easier on the joint than mashing big gears.
Fatigue failures take time, so while the gouge may have a significant effect on the LONG TERM life of the frame, the odds still favor you completing your trip and riding for a long while afterward.
A factor to consider is the terrain, since standing (or even not standing) with high pedal pressure to climb is the kind of thing that would be hardest on the area. Another is your weight and strength. Lastly there's your riding style, with spinning lower gears being easier on the joint than mashing big gears.
#10
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The major local stresses on the bottom bracket area are due to pedaling. Nothing you do or don't do now will make much difference. The tube will last until it cracks, which will happen sooner than it originally would have,
In the meantime, focus on enjoying the bike as if I had never given you a reason to be worried about it.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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