Crappy gear changes
08-22-17 | 11:56 AM
#1
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Crappy gear changes
Ηello everyone ,my bike is a rossignol mtb from 96' or 97' (i think) i cleaned my bottom bracket replaced bearings
bought new freewheel ,chain,crankset and adjusted my derailleurs.My back derailleur is serving me well is not that fast but it get the job done ,but the front gears are so terrible, the chain go the chainring that i selected so slow or even dont change at all and because it has twist shifters i look like a ****** trying to get the correct chainring .What is the problem i almost changed everything and the problem is still there.
bought new freewheel ,chain,crankset and adjusted my derailleurs.My back derailleur is serving me well is not that fast but it get the job done ,but the front gears are so terrible, the chain go the chainring that i selected so slow or even dont change at all and because it has twist shifters i look like a ****** trying to get the correct chainring .What is the problem i almost changed everything and the problem is still there.
08-22-17 | 12:19 PM
#2
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Learn technique and timing and terrain reading and friction shifters work reliably well. (toss the grip shifters for friction thumb-shifters)
or maybe you have envy of the higher tech indexed shifting that reduces the skill -i nvolvement - participation.
there have been engineers working on that for decades now.
maybe time for a new bicycle?
....
or maybe you have envy of the higher tech indexed shifting that reduces the skill -i nvolvement - participation.
there have been engineers working on that for decades now.
maybe time for a new bicycle?
....
08-22-17 | 12:21 PM
#3
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Well one constant is the rider... Andy
08-22-17 | 12:39 PM
#4
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I dont want spend alot of money now on a new bike, if i buy a new bike it would be a hardtail that costs atleast 600-800euros and i dont have that kind of money right now, bying a cheap "new" bike that has the same components or little better than mine now doesnt make any sense to my pocket.So you are telling that the shifters are the problem?
08-22-17 | 12:48 PM
#5
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From: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Perhaps some more details about the shifting problems.
Upshifting? Downshifting? Small, Middle, Large chainring?
Shifter? Derailleur model? Photos?
I worked on an older cheap Shimano MTB derailleur a while ago. It tended to trap the chain when upshifting from the middle to the big ring. The solution was to move the derailleur up enough that most of the shifting was with the flat part of the derailleur.
A bent derailleur cage can also cause problems, and might be able to be straightened if done with care.
Look carefully at the derailleur cables and cable housings. New slick derailleur housing might be helpful.
Upshifting? Downshifting? Small, Middle, Large chainring?
Shifter? Derailleur model? Photos?
I worked on an older cheap Shimano MTB derailleur a while ago. It tended to trap the chain when upshifting from the middle to the big ring. The solution was to move the derailleur up enough that most of the shifting was with the flat part of the derailleur.
A bent derailleur cage can also cause problems, and might be able to be straightened if done with care.
Look carefully at the derailleur cables and cable housings. New slick derailleur housing might be helpful.
08-22-17 | 12:59 PM
#6
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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,382
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
twist grips... freewheel... low end bike...
the crank/chain rings are riveted together, right? they are low end parts, and may not shift easily, no matter what you try.
watch a youtube video on front derailleur adjustment... do what it says to do.... alignment, adjusting the clearance between the der. cage and large chain ring... adjust cable correctly, then set the limit screws correctly.
OR... buy a newer, better crank set if the adjustments don't help. Modern designs use a system of ramps and pins to LIFT the chain onto the larger sprocket when you shift...
the crank/chain rings are riveted together, right? they are low end parts, and may not shift easily, no matter what you try.
watch a youtube video on front derailleur adjustment... do what it says to do.... alignment, adjusting the clearance between the der. cage and large chain ring... adjust cable correctly, then set the limit screws correctly.
OR... buy a newer, better crank set if the adjustments don't help. Modern designs use a system of ramps and pins to LIFT the chain onto the larger sprocket when you shift...
08-22-17 | 01:49 PM
#7
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Joined: Jun 2015
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From: Western NC mountains
Bikes: Trek Domane gen 5, Marin Gestalt X10, Diamondback Century 3. Marin Four Corners
Ηello everyone ,my bike is a rossignol mtb from 96' or 97' (i think) i cleaned my bottom bracket replaced bearings
bought new freewheel ,chain,crankset and adjusted my derailleurs.My back derailleur is serving me well is not that fast but it get the job done ,but the front gears are so terrible, the chain go the chainring that i selected so slow or even dont change at all and because it has twist shifters i look like a ****** trying to get the correct chainring .What is the problem i almost changed everything and the problem is still there.
bought new freewheel ,chain,crankset and adjusted my derailleurs.My back derailleur is serving me well is not that fast but it get the job done ,but the front gears are so terrible, the chain go the chainring that i selected so slow or even dont change at all and because it has twist shifters i look like a ****** trying to get the correct chainring .What is the problem i almost changed everything and the problem is still there.
08-26-17 | 01:40 PM
#8
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Changing my cables was the first thing i have done, but i didnt changed the housings i used the old ones and put some light grease inside them. Could this be a problem?Also i didnt mention that my front derailleur is a from the low end tourney series.Sorry for the late response.
Last edited by manos99; 08-26-17 at 01:52 PM.
08-26-17 | 02:25 PM
#9
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
I could train a chimpanzee to tune a rear derailleur but front derailleurs can be tricky.
My advice is to go to the Park tool website. You should be able to find a set of step-by-step instructions for installing a front derailleur. Since you've obviously been struggling with it for awhile, assume that everything is screwed up. Disconnect the shift cable from the derailleur and pretend that you are installing it for the first time.
Step 1 has to do with the position of the derailleur on the seat tube. Before doing anything else, make sure that's as perfect as you can get it. My experience has been that whenever I've had a lot of trouble adjusting a front derailleur, the ultimate problem was the position of the derailleur on the seat tube.
Follow the rest of the steps IN ORDER because each adjustment affects the subsequent adjustments.
Good luck! The good news is that after you get it right, you will have the sense of accomplishment at having figured it out yourself.
My advice is to go to the Park tool website. You should be able to find a set of step-by-step instructions for installing a front derailleur. Since you've obviously been struggling with it for awhile, assume that everything is screwed up. Disconnect the shift cable from the derailleur and pretend that you are installing it for the first time.
Step 1 has to do with the position of the derailleur on the seat tube. Before doing anything else, make sure that's as perfect as you can get it. My experience has been that whenever I've had a lot of trouble adjusting a front derailleur, the ultimate problem was the position of the derailleur on the seat tube.
Follow the rest of the steps IN ORDER because each adjustment affects the subsequent adjustments.
Good luck! The good news is that after you get it right, you will have the sense of accomplishment at having figured it out yourself.
__________________
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My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
08-26-17 | 03:03 PM
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 997
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From: Western NC mountains
Bikes: Trek Domane gen 5, Marin Gestalt X10, Diamondback Century 3. Marin Four Corners
Changing my cables was the first thing i have done, but i didnt changed the housings i used the old ones and put some light grease inside them. Could this be a problem?Also i didnt mention that my front derailleur is a from the low end tourney series.Sorry for the late response.
I could train a chimpanzee to tune a rear derailleur but front derailleurs can be tricky.
My advice is to go to the Park tool website. You should be able to find a set of step-by-step instructions for installing a front derailleur. Since you've obviously been struggling with it for awhile, assume that everything is screwed up. Disconnect the shift cable from the derailleur and pretend that you are installing it for the first time.
Step 1 has to do with the position of the derailleur on the seat tube. Before doing anything else, make sure that's as perfect as you can get it. My experience has been that whenever I've had a lot of trouble adjusting a front derailleur, the ultimate problem was the position of the derailleur on the seat tube.
Follow the rest of the steps IN ORDER because each adjustment affects the subsequent adjustments.
Good luck! The good news is that after you get it right, you will have the sense of accomplishment at having figured it out yourself.
My advice is to go to the Park tool website. You should be able to find a set of step-by-step instructions for installing a front derailleur. Since you've obviously been struggling with it for awhile, assume that everything is screwed up. Disconnect the shift cable from the derailleur and pretend that you are installing it for the first time.
Step 1 has to do with the position of the derailleur on the seat tube. Before doing anything else, make sure that's as perfect as you can get it. My experience has been that whenever I've had a lot of trouble adjusting a front derailleur, the ultimate problem was the position of the derailleur on the seat tube.
Follow the rest of the steps IN ORDER because each adjustment affects the subsequent adjustments.
Good luck! The good news is that after you get it right, you will have the sense of accomplishment at having figured it out yourself.
08-26-17 | 04:14 PM
#12
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 6,006
Likes: 2,286
From: Mission Viejo
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Perhaps some more details about the shifting problems.
Upshifting? Downshifting? Small, Middle, Large chainring?
Shifter? Derailleur model? Photos?
I worked on an older cheap Shimano MTB derailleur a while ago. It tended to trap the chain when upshifting from the middle to the big ring. The solution was to move the derailleur up enough that most of the shifting was with the flat part of the derailleur.
A bent derailleur cage can also cause problems, and might be able to be straightened if done with care.
Look carefully at the derailleur cables and cable housings. New slick derailleur housing might be helpful.
Upshifting? Downshifting? Small, Middle, Large chainring?
Shifter? Derailleur model? Photos?
I worked on an older cheap Shimano MTB derailleur a while ago. It tended to trap the chain when upshifting from the middle to the big ring. The solution was to move the derailleur up enough that most of the shifting was with the flat part of the derailleur.
A bent derailleur cage can also cause problems, and might be able to be straightened if done with care.
Look carefully at the derailleur cables and cable housings. New slick derailleur housing might be helpful.
Sometimes you need to raise the front derailleur to get it to work right. This is especially important if you changed chainring size. If you went from a 46t to a 42t large ring, (really necessary if you drop a chainring and just run middle/small), the front derailleur may not want to shift up if you set it at 2mm. I've raised a FD till I found a sweet spot. It does make it infinitely easier if you have a bike stand.
John
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