Say it like I spelled it. It just rolls off the tongue. So much better and more elegant than kludge.

I recently retrofitted my SS mountain bike with a 1x10 setup. It doesn't have any braze ons for the housing and the frame has non standard enough tubes that I don't think the clamp style braze on things problem solvers sells would fit well. I ran full SIS housing. I works, I've ridden it several times. It doesn't shift great. No kinks, good loop at the R-der, etc. It just shifts like there is too much friction in the system. Makes sense, there is about double the length of housing when using a closed system like I did.

So I'm going to fabulusly (say it out loud!) add braze ons to the frame. Probably tomorrow afternoon as a wake up from the hangover of 3 night shifts in a row. Framebuilders supply sent me a 10 pack of braze ons for $2.50 and a bottom bracket cable guide for $1.00. I won't be brazing onto an aluminum frame of course. My current idea is to use JB weld Steel stick, it's a putty that gets really hard (supposedly like steel but I highly doubt that). I have used it to repair a broken AT ski tech riser. It does work.

So for my idea, putty around the braze on and build up a buttress for security in the direction of the pull. Once finished and hardened, I'll put a fat zip-tie over the braze and tighten it down with a cable puller. The buttress will keep it from moving forward and the zip tie will keep it down and also add security since I don't fully trust the adhesive properties of steel stick.

It'll be a day before I get after it, so post up ideas if you have them, I'm open to changing my approach. Bear in mind I have a bag of braze ons already. I'll post an update in a few days and let you know if it worked.

Wonder if a mini rivet would be ideal?

I'd want to try it with the shifter for awhile before doing braze ons for the brakes.

Jb weld is just glorified glue, it's best to keep that in mind. Good luck.

I have disc brakes routed in the typical fashion. Absolutely no plans to do anything for the brakes.

self adhesive patches that you can use to zip tie down housing , are made and sold.

I've seen that for routing but not for actual stops. I'm interested if you have a link.

Put out the search effort its your question..

Where do you live/ Shop? there are online sellers like Universal cycles in Portland, 'Bikeman' in Maine,, that reesell QBP stuff..
and SJS Cycles in UK.. and several others for retail importing..

you can also ask your LBS to order them.. lots of shops have a QBP account..

Clamp on stops are made too, but for Brakes just run full housing so the clamp grip wont be an issue.





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Interested to see how it turns out, but for extra security I'd start by drilling a small hole and inserting (jb-welding in place?) some kind of pin (maybe just a small length of nail) to act as a buttress, perhaps with jbweld then packed all around, to keep the braze-on snugly butted up against the buttress.

Butt.

However, before possibly doing permanent damage to your frame, I would investigate attaching (welding?) a braze-onto to a hose clamp, and clamping that onto your frame.

Sometimes when things that should work don't, there is a reason. This was the case.

When taking the shift cable off (btw, I never mentioned the brake cable, except to say that I wasn't touching it), I noticed that the cable wasn't moving inside the housing well (housing and cable were new 2 weeks ago when I did this setup). Of course this was the root of the problem. I figured it was from excessive friction from a longer piece of housing. With a little fiddling around, I noticed that the housing ends on the SIS were kinda tight. Tight enough to slow the cable movement, this was what was causing my slow shifts. I widened the holes on the housing ends with a tiny drill bit and put it back together and it works perfect.

Sorry to disappoint, I was really looking forward to making cable stops.

Cool. Full housing is a more elegant solution than brazeons anyways.