Standover height - how important?
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Main problem with the snugger fit on the hybrid is the bare brake cable running along the top tube. In real world riding conditions it would never interfere. But occasionally I worry about straddling the bike and the bare wire cable rubbing the paint. So next time I replace cables I'll use full length housings. The road bike already has a full length cable housing for the brake cable running along the top tube.
The old Colnago had full length cable housing with vintage Campy cable guides. Originally it was configured with the guides to the left side, but I've twisted them with the guides now down the center.
When shifted to the side, the cable housing gave moderate protection from pants rub on the left side. When twisted to the top, the cable housing seems to lightly abrade the paint down the top of the top tube.
If I had cable stops installed, I might consider adding a loose fitting cable liner sheath the length of the cable between stops. It might give some minimal protection for the frame.
Anyway, as mentioned above, I have a habit of sitting on the tube, so I don't think standover height has much impact on how the cables or cable housing rubs the paint.
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Most bike folks who see me with these bikes think the frames are a bit too large for me. But my legs are just a big longer than usual for a 5'11", around 33.5". And I have a long waist with narrow hips, so I tend to wear my pants low, which makes my legs appear shorter than they are. So if I depended on bike shop sales people who didn't do fittings, I'd be riding bikes a bit too small for me.
#28
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Seat tube (center to center, bottom bracket to top tube): 22.5"/57cm, approx
Top tube, head tube to seat tube: 23"
Bottom bracket height: 9.5"
1993 Univega Via Carisma
Seat tube: 22.5"/57cm
Top tube: 23.5"
Bottom bracket height: 9.75" (influenced by the larger tire)
My measurements don't exactly match the specifications from Univega and Centurion. I'm not sure how they measured the frames. So technically my Ironman is a 56cm or 58cm, per Centurion specs. I'd probably be satisfied with most horizontal top tube bikes in that range of 56-58cm.
I've been pondering an old style rigid fork/frame mountain bike and would probably go 54-56cm, assuming 26" wheels/tires, to ensure plenty of crotchal clearance in case of emergency bailout. These things show up often on craiglist and other used sites for cheap -- Treks, Specialized 'hoppers, Univegas, etc. Another local rider my height, build, etc., has a couple of those older MTBs and he seems to favor a slightly smaller frame than with his road bikes.
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1989 Centurion Ironman
Seat tube (center to center, bottom bracket to top tube): 22.5"/57cm, approx
Top tube, head tube to seat tube: 23"
Bottom bracket height: 9.5"
1993 Univega Via Carisma
Seat tube: 22.5"/57cm
Top tube: 23.5"
Bottom bracket height: 9.75" (influenced by the larger tire)
My measurements don't exactly match the specifications from Univega and Centurion. I'm not sure how they measured the frames. So technically my Ironman is a 56cm or 58cm, per Centurion specs. I'd probably be satisfied with most horizontal top tube bikes in that range of 56-58cm.
I've been pondering an old style rigid fork/frame mountain bike and would probably go 54-56cm, assuming 26" wheels/tires, to ensure plenty of crotchal clearance in case of emergency bailout. These things show up often on craiglist and other used sites for cheap -- Treks, Specialized 'hoppers, Univegas, etc. Another local rider my height, build, etc., has a couple of those older MTBs and he seems to favor a slightly smaller frame than with his road bikes.
Seat tube (center to center, bottom bracket to top tube): 22.5"/57cm, approx
Top tube, head tube to seat tube: 23"
Bottom bracket height: 9.5"
1993 Univega Via Carisma
Seat tube: 22.5"/57cm
Top tube: 23.5"
Bottom bracket height: 9.75" (influenced by the larger tire)
My measurements don't exactly match the specifications from Univega and Centurion. I'm not sure how they measured the frames. So technically my Ironman is a 56cm or 58cm, per Centurion specs. I'd probably be satisfied with most horizontal top tube bikes in that range of 56-58cm.
I've been pondering an old style rigid fork/frame mountain bike and would probably go 54-56cm, assuming 26" wheels/tires, to ensure plenty of crotchal clearance in case of emergency bailout. These things show up often on craiglist and other used sites for cheap -- Treks, Specialized 'hoppers, Univegas, etc. Another local rider my height, build, etc., has a couple of those older MTBs and he seems to favor a slightly smaller frame than with his road bikes.
Last edited by Boondocksaints; 10-14-17 at 06:45 PM.
#30
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Main problem with the snugger fit on the hybrid is the bare brake cable running along the top tube. In real world riding conditions it would never interfere. But occasionally I worry about straddling the bike and the bare wire cable rubbing the paint. So next time I replace cables I'll use full length housings. The road bike already has a full length cable housing for the brake cable running along the top tube.
Now back to our regular programming...
#31
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Don't listen to squeaky above!!!!!!!!
It is very important!
Trust me, standover clearance is mandatory.
Regards,
Crankster
Trust me, standover clearance is mandatory.
Regards,
Crankster
#32
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Thread Starter
I've got a bike fit coming up next weekend so I'll take all the points mentioned on board.
#33
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1989 Centurion Ironman
Seat tube (center to center, bottom bracket to top tube): 22.5"/57cm, approx
Top tube, head tube to seat tube: 23"
Bottom bracket height: 9.5"
1993 Univega Via Carisma
Seat tube: 22.5"/57cm
Top tube: 23.5"
Bottom bracket height: 9.75" (influenced by the larger tire)
My measurements don't exactly match the specifications from Univega and Centurion. I'm not sure how they measured the frames. So technically my Ironman is a 56cm or 58cm, per Centurion specs. I'd probably be satisfied with most horizontal top tube bikes in that range of 56-58cm.
I've been pondering an old style rigid fork/frame mountain bike and would probably go 54-56cm, assuming 26" wheels/tires, to ensure plenty of crotchal clearance in case of emergency bailout. These things show up often on craiglist and other used sites for cheap -- Treks, Specialized 'hoppers, Univegas, etc. Another local rider my height, build, etc., has a couple of those older MTBs and he seems to favor a slightly smaller frame than with his road bikes.
Seat tube (center to center, bottom bracket to top tube): 22.5"/57cm, approx
Top tube, head tube to seat tube: 23"
Bottom bracket height: 9.5"
1993 Univega Via Carisma
Seat tube: 22.5"/57cm
Top tube: 23.5"
Bottom bracket height: 9.75" (influenced by the larger tire)
My measurements don't exactly match the specifications from Univega and Centurion. I'm not sure how they measured the frames. So technically my Ironman is a 56cm or 58cm, per Centurion specs. I'd probably be satisfied with most horizontal top tube bikes in that range of 56-58cm.
I've been pondering an old style rigid fork/frame mountain bike and would probably go 54-56cm, assuming 26" wheels/tires, to ensure plenty of crotchal clearance in case of emergency bailout. These things show up often on craiglist and other used sites for cheap -- Treks, Specialized 'hoppers, Univegas, etc. Another local rider my height, build, etc., has a couple of those older MTBs and he seems to favor a slightly smaller frame than with his road bikes.
No doubt! Looking at your BB height I estimate a BB "drop" (not influenced by tires) of 10cm. A drop of 7cm and a Bb height of around 10.75" is vastly more likely what you have. I suggest re measuring from the bike's other side. Seriously, change your perspective when measuring the second time. Andy.
#34
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I usually need Small sized bike frames as I'm vertically challenged, being just 5'6". I also have short legs so struggle with standover height. As an example, I have a 52cm Roubaix SL4 road bike but I struggle to plant my feet flat on the ground whilst standing over the top tube. The same is true of my hybrid. Both are effectively small frames. In all other respects, the bikes feel comfortable to ride.
So, how important is standover height?
So, how important is standover height?
Frame fit isn't just pick one dimension...usually top tube length...and say that's the size bike you need. All of the dimensions work together. Standover is just as important as top tube length which is just as important as the seat tube (or "size") of the frame. A bike that has too tall a standover likely is too large and has too long a top tube for your size. It all works together. In all honesty, the differences between frame dimensions for a certain "size" of bike aren't all that different from model to model or even manufacturer to manufacturer.
For all those who say that "standover isn't important", do an experiment. Go find a bike that is 2 sizes too big and go for a ride. Make sure you stop the bike at some point and "just lean it over". It's not comfortable and not as easy as you think it is.
My wife has struggled with finding bike frames in the proper size for 40 years. It took me a long time to convince her that the proper sized bike was actually more comfortable. It took a long time for manufacturers to even make a bike in her size. Even now they are few and far between. "Just lean it over" doesn't cut it.
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#35
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Right you are. That's what I get for measuring on the carpet while I'm half asleep. And I measured from the bottom of the BB shell, rather than the center.
#36
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Nearly everyone will tell you that standover is unimportant. They are wrong because most of them have never had to deal with it. Frankly, a 52cm road bike for someone 5'6" is a bit on the tall side. A 50cm would be a better fit.
Frame fit isn't just pick one dimension...usually top tube length...and say that's the size bike you need. All of the dimensions work together. Standover is just as important as top tube length which is just as important as the seat tube (or "size") of the frame. A bike that has too tall a standover likely is too large and has too long a top tube for your size. It all works together. In all honesty, the differences between frame dimensions for a certain "size" of bike aren't all that different from model to model or even manufacturer to manufacturer.
Frame fit isn't just pick one dimension...usually top tube length...and say that's the size bike you need. All of the dimensions work together. Standover is just as important as top tube length which is just as important as the seat tube (or "size") of the frame. A bike that has too tall a standover likely is too large and has too long a top tube for your size. It all works together. In all honesty, the differences between frame dimensions for a certain "size" of bike aren't all that different from model to model or even manufacturer to manufacturer.
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#37
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It is the first bit of geometry that I look at, as I will not countenance a bike that would give me grief in an emergency stop.
As someone who often finds he has to carefully and slowly move around pedestrians, coming to an annoying stop is a frequent occurrence.
Now obviously I am also lucky that I don't have crazy long or crazy short proportions, so finding a bike with the standover I want/need will almost always also give me the effective top tube length I like.
As someone who often finds he has to carefully and slowly move around pedestrians, coming to an annoying stop is a frequent occurrence.
Now obviously I am also lucky that I don't have crazy long or crazy short proportions, so finding a bike with the standover I want/need will almost always also give me the effective top tube length I like.
#38
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I usually need Small sized bike frames as I'm vertically challenged, being just 5'6". I also have short legs so struggle with standover height. As an example, I have a 52cm Roubaix SL4 road bike but I struggle to plant my feet flat on the ground whilst standing over the top tube. The same is true of my hybrid. Both are effectively small frames. In all other respects, the bikes feel comfortable to ride.
So, how important is standover height?
So, how important is standover height?
Realistically, I am rarely ever having to stand flat footed over the top tube.
Last edited by Kapusta; 10-12-17 at 02:52 PM.
#39
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
The long top tube and head tube help me achieve the comfortable riding position that I prefer.
Last edited by SquidPuppet; 10-12-17 at 02:15 PM.
#40
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I'm going to disagree with the majority consensus here. I live on my bike and last April while on a tour, my best friend was stolen. I was in a non-biking city and region, so my choices for replacement (used) were minimal. The bike that had been kidnapped was too small for me and it's replacement is too big. Trying to lift my leg over the top bar is cumbersome. The number of times I've nearly fallen because I can't get one or both feet down at the last second is too many. It hasn't screwed up my back, but it has made it worse. Once I'm on the bike, no problem, but yes size does matter. None of these problems I had with the too-small bike.
#41
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#42
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#43
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Old thread but I wanted to add I think you should be able to clear your TT, maybe you just clear or have very minimal clearance but if you have negative SOH than I personally think that's a non starter. Yes clearance doesn't determine overall fit and you don't need to clear your TT to pedal, but for quick mounting and dismounting, safety, and even aesthetics I think clearing a TT matters. If you were using a bike on a static trainer yeah SOH doesn't matter. I am also 5'5" so I know the pain of not being able to find a frame I can clear. I will say bike sizing for the most part has gotten so much better over the past 5 years or so with more compact frames with sloping TTs.
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Sort of shocked at the number of people claiming standover height is unimportant. But it probably explains the number of improperly sized bikes that show up here!
#46
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Its a personal choice. I have some clearance on all my frames, 5' 11" with 32 in seam . The 61 is very comfortable when riding and with shoes on, it touches. The 56 is way to short only because I want to use a matching Campagnolo 2 bolt post The only way I can get there is with a Brooks Pro where the saddle top to rain is likely the max for it type of saddle design.
61
2010 Langster Steel 61cm on Flickr
56
1983 Colnago Superissimo
The best for me is 59
P1030581 on Flickr
I have no idea what the stand-over height is for any of them. They all have 700 wheel sets.
The MTB is a 21" because it was the largest available at the time.
P1030581 on Flickr
When it comes to tandems, you really need it to clear to use the top tube to steady the bike along with the handlebars when the stocker gets on.
61
2010 Langster Steel 61cm on Flickr
56
1983 Colnago Superissimo
The best for me is 59
P1030581 on Flickr
I have no idea what the stand-over height is for any of them. They all have 700 wheel sets.
The MTB is a 21" because it was the largest available at the time.
P1030581 on Flickr
When it comes to tandems, you really need it to clear to use the top tube to steady the bike along with the handlebars when the stocker gets on.
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Last edited by SJX426; 07-23-23 at 08:06 AM.
#47
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#48
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Why resurrect a dead thread from almost six years ago when there are several threads on stand over height that were made this year.
Fitting Your Bike
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#49
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Why resurrect a dead thread from almost six years ago when there are several threads on stand over height that were made this year.
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#50
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If I can have one foot on the ground while not having my groin hitting the top tube I am fine. I have no need to have both feet on the ground and be able to straddle the bike. The bike frames meant for women are going to be closer in their frame geometery and worth checking out.
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