Chainring- pins & ramps question.
#1
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Bikes: 1992 Serotta Colorado II,Co-Motion Speedster, Giant Escape Hybrid, 1977 Schwinn Super Le Tour
Chainring- pins & ramps question.
Looking to put a new more "classic" looking crankset n my wife's bike. I like the Sugino XD600 triple but would like a bit different ring combo. It appears that after market rings with pins & ramps are not to available. Her front shifter is index and I want to keep it simple for her.
How well would non pin & ramp chainrings perform?
Thanks!
How well would non pin & ramp chainrings perform?
Thanks!
#2
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From: Upstate NY
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
The XD600 has a common 110 mm / 74 mm bolt circle diameter, so there are ramped & pinned chainring sets available that would fit. Chainrings don't have to be Sugino-branded so long as the number of bolts and the BCD's match.
Alternatively, you could look for similar cranksets that come with different chainring sizes. XXCycle, a French web site, carries Stronglight Impact cranksets that are a spitting image of the XD600:
https://www.xxcycle.com/crankset-str...triple,,en.php
Alternatively, you could look for similar cranksets that come with different chainring sizes. XXCycle, a French web site, carries Stronglight Impact cranksets that are a spitting image of the XD600:
https://www.xxcycle.com/crankset-str...triple,,en.php
#3
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From: NE Ohio
Bikes: 1992 Serotta Colorado II,Co-Motion Speedster, Giant Escape Hybrid, 1977 Schwinn Super Le Tour
Thanks! I just took a look but they don't say whether or not there are pins & ramps. Maybe I am just not seeing it.
#4
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One thing to be aware of with Sugino Cransksets is that their standard it that the "5th" spider arm is hidden as the crankarm (see below picture). This is different than the Shimano standard where all five arms of a 5 arm 110 BCD crankset, are visible. Why is this of interest. Well when I went to install a TA large chainring (With pins and ramps) on my wife's triple Sugino crankset, a had to relocate the "chain" retention pin that is designed to go behind the crankarm, and keep the chain from jamming between the crankarm and crankset. Other than drilling a small hole and relocating the pin, the shifting seems to be fine. I also have a TA middle chain ring on this crankset. Note I am also running a TA middle and small chainring on this crankset. FOr my bike, I always liked the look of the old Shimano 110 BCD triple cranksets, so I bought a NOS Shimano FC-M737 on ebay. Some would say its old tech because it is a square taper bottom bracket interface, but I never had a problem with this interface.
#5
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How well a non ramped/pinned ring will shift in an otherwise indexed system will be very rider dependent. As in how well do they shift using best techniques like reasonable quick cadence and soft pedaling during the shift. I see riders every weekend with vast mileage behind them who still don't follow these guidelines and then comment on how lousy their front shifting is.
But there are ramped/pinned rings out there, with some tooth counts much more likely to be had then others. Some, like the TA rings, are rather expensive. Others (again like TA) are not going to be stocked at the LBS. But all can be ordered either by the rider directly or through a LBS. If your LBS isn't interested in seeking what you want out then you might want to try a more motivated shop. Andy.
But there are ramped/pinned rings out there, with some tooth counts much more likely to be had then others. Some, like the TA rings, are rather expensive. Others (again like TA) are not going to be stocked at the LBS. But all can be ordered either by the rider directly or through a LBS. If your LBS isn't interested in seeking what you want out then you might want to try a more motivated shop. Andy.
#6
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There are , just you may be looking too down market..
FWIW with a friction shifter and a little thinking to make the shift not forced
when there is too much chain tension, even the lowly pre ramp and pin chainrings are OK.
Tom, turn off the online shopping and go to a bike shop ..
(a friend from here moved to Cleveland, works in the oldest bike shop in the state, there.)
...
FWIW with a friction shifter and a little thinking to make the shift not forced
when there is too much chain tension, even the lowly pre ramp and pin chainrings are OK.
Tom, turn off the online shopping and go to a bike shop ..
(a friend from here moved to Cleveland, works in the oldest bike shop in the state, there.)
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-16-17 at 10:30 AM.
#7
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#8
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From: Pearland, Texas
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Tandem Tom, I'm using non ramped or pinned chain rings with a Shimano indexed FD shifter. Shifting under power will cause the chain to skid across the teeth, sometimes. Not so when using proper technique. The chain engages smoothly and quickly when not power shifting.
Brad
Brad
#9
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Vuelta makes ramped-and-pinned 110 BCD replacement chainrings here in the USA: https://www.vueltausa.com/components...lack-1321.html
Ramps and pins can be really nice when there is a large jump in teeth from one chainring to the next. I don't think compact cranks would have taken off without them.
Ramps and pins can be really nice when there is a large jump in teeth from one chainring to the next. I don't think compact cranks would have taken off without them.
Last edited by ThermionicScott; 10-16-17 at 10:01 AM.
#10
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From: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
Vuelta makes ramped-and-pinned 110 BCD replacement chainrings here in the USA: https://www.vueltausa.com/components...lack-1321.html
Ramps and pins can be really nice when there is a large jump in teeth from one chainring to the next. I don't think compact cranks would have taken off without them.
Ramps and pins can be really nice when there is a large jump in teeth from one chainring to the next. I don't think compact cranks would have taken off without them.
Brad
#11
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One thing I would like to add. If you change the tooth count of the chainrings, the ramps on the front derailleur may not match the new rings. You may need to move the derailleur up or down on the seat tube to get it to work better, or you may need to replace the derailleur with a non-ramped one.
I have never noticed any great improvement in shifting with ramped front derailleurs, for what it is worth. But I am old school, and ease off my pedaling when I shift. So please don’t get too worried about whether the new rings will work properly.
I have never noticed any great improvement in shifting with ramped front derailleurs, for what it is worth. But I am old school, and ease off my pedaling when I shift. So please don’t get too worried about whether the new rings will work properly.
#12
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Many brands of rings, pinned and ramped and not pinned and ramped will work well enough. Actually, the non pinned and ramped will often give you less trouble if your front derailleur is not perfectly adjusted.
Chainrings sets are matched so the pins and ramps of each ring are in a particular relationship to each other and to the position of the arms. Sets of rings are usually marked so you get them in the proper orientation. Of course, the inner ring dosen't have any.
The hidden chain ring bolt on the Sugino is a real pain to deal with, but I did for several years. The one real problem I encounter was mixing chainrings. I did this to get ratios I wanted and, surprise! to save money. ( I have lots of chainring hanging in the shed) Though is is not a problem to put 'sets' of chainring on a given crank. (Sugino rings on a Shimano crank or vice versa.) It is a problem using Shimano and Sugino rings together. Their offset from the spiders are slightly different, enough so to make adjusting a triple derailleur very difficult. So if you use different rings, I've found I had to put spacers (also known as washers) on the spider to make the offset the same for each ring. Then you can go ahead and adjust your derailleur.
I finally got fed up with the Sugino triple crank and replaced just that part of my tandem crankset to one that was completely compatible with the Shimano standard.
Anyway, that was my experience and my path of 'discovery.'
Chainrings sets are matched so the pins and ramps of each ring are in a particular relationship to each other and to the position of the arms. Sets of rings are usually marked so you get them in the proper orientation. Of course, the inner ring dosen't have any.
The hidden chain ring bolt on the Sugino is a real pain to deal with, but I did for several years. The one real problem I encounter was mixing chainrings. I did this to get ratios I wanted and, surprise! to save money. ( I have lots of chainring hanging in the shed) Though is is not a problem to put 'sets' of chainring on a given crank. (Sugino rings on a Shimano crank or vice versa.) It is a problem using Shimano and Sugino rings together. Their offset from the spiders are slightly different, enough so to make adjusting a triple derailleur very difficult. So if you use different rings, I've found I had to put spacers (also known as washers) on the spider to make the offset the same for each ring. Then you can go ahead and adjust your derailleur.
I finally got fed up with the Sugino triple crank and replaced just that part of my tandem crankset to one that was completely compatible with the Shimano standard.
Anyway, that was my experience and my path of 'discovery.'
#13
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From: Upstate NY
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
The XXCycle web page for the Stronglight Impact Triple doesn't mention ramps or pins, but it does specify Stronglight CSA chainrings (Chain Shifting Assistance), which are ramped and pinned. And you can see the pins in the product image.





