BB stuck
#1
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Joined: Aug 2017
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BB stuck
Hey guys, I have the campagnolo square taper bb tool - bb is similar to this https://www.bikyle.com/images/Parts/C..._bracket_1.JPG
I managed to remove the drive-side with the cartridge but the non-drive side won't budge - any solutions? (Tommasini alloy extra frame)
I managed to remove the drive-side with the cartridge but the non-drive side won't budge - any solutions? (Tommasini alloy extra frame)
#3
Right side can have either right or left threads depending on the model of BB.
How much of the bottom bracket are you able to get out? With vintage bottom brackets, people have been able to attach a big bolt to extract a stuck bb cup (if one side was removed).
#5
Generally bewildered

Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Eastern PA, USA
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior
In general, the fixed side of BBs can be hard. Do make sure that you are twisting in the right direction! That said, wrenches that fit the BB cone don't always give one the leverage needed. To get that, one can put the flats of the cone in a vise, and use the bike to as a wrench. But it depends upon the design. Old school campy cones have flats. New stuff ... I don't know.
#6
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My process for this has never failed me when the fixed cup is the only thing left and is oldschool with the two flats for the wrench. Put the wrench on the cup, next have a small flat piece of wood or aluminum about 4 inches square, use a clamp, C style, ratchet bar, etc to clamp the square down on the wrench. This will keep the wrench from slipping off while you wrestle with it. I have an old Sugino with the hook on the other end that I can use a big box end with if I need more leverage. They are never as tight as they seem to be once you get the wrench to stay on. Like I said, this works for me 100% of the time. It will also work on other styles of fixed cups with the right setup.
#7
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...the last one of those I pulled out for someone, I just used a regular old VAR lock ring plier.
Make sure you dose it at the cup/shell interface (both inside and outside the shell) with a penetrant like 50/50 acetone and ATF, and give it five or ten minutes to wick down into the threads. And as repeated several times now, make sure you know which is the proper direction to turn the thing.
...the last one of those I pulled out for someone, I just used a regular old VAR lock ring plier.
Make sure you dose it at the cup/shell interface (both inside and outside the shell) with a penetrant like 50/50 acetone and ATF, and give it five or ten minutes to wick down into the threads. And as repeated several times now, make sure you know which is the proper direction to turn the thing.
#8
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Joined: Aug 2017
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Update, I used the preload bolt and screwed the cartridge side of the bb slightly in. I put the preload bolt through the bb tool, put the wrench on and literally stood on it.
First time didnt work, I dropped some lube into the threads and left it overnight, now I jumped on the wrench, and it comes off - thanks all.
First time didnt work, I dropped some lube into the threads and left it overnight, now I jumped on the wrench, and it comes off - thanks all.
#9
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From: Dublin, Ireland
Bikes: Bianchi Ti Megatube; Colnago Competition; Planet-X EC-130E; Klein Pulse; Amp Research B4; Litespeed Catalyst; Trek Y11
Update, I used the preload bolt and screwed the cartridge side of the bb slightly in. I put the preload bolt through the bb tool, put the wrench on and literally stood on it.
First time didnt work, I dropped some lube into the threads and left it overnight, now I jumped on the wrench, and it comes off - thanks all.
First time didnt work, I dropped some lube into the threads and left it overnight, now I jumped on the wrench, and it comes off - thanks all.






