So I have a road bike whose brake cable runs along the top tube at about 190 deg from top of the top tube. My current work stand pinches the brake cable and makes it difficult to adjust the rear brakes when in the stand and clamped down on the top tube. So I’m trying to find a work stand whose jaws won’t do this. Yes I realize there are other options, e.g. clamp on the down tube or seat post, but that is not what I’m looking for. I’m looking for a work stand that will allow me to clamp down on the top tube and not pinch the rear brake cable. Any ideas?

TIA,
Rick

You mean like in the following photo? Feedback's Ultimate clamp seems to leave enough of a gap for the cable housing to pass through untouched.

20171228_141847 (Medium).jpg

My Park stand has notches on the top and bottom jaws to allow clearance for cables.


Maybe you just need to spend a few minutes with a hacksaw?

From the photo I believe your cable runs at the bottom, where mine would run about 10deg towards the top from your cable. your system would probably work if I could notch the clamp. Would the clamp material allow for notching?

My cable is not dead-center bottom. It's toward the left where it would be if there were also a right-side cable. I guess the positioning doesn't show well in the image.

What model of park, 9,10? My current stand is an old Blackburn, circa 1985. The clamp is metal covered with rubbery stuff which I’ve replaced a couple of times. About time to replace the stand I think.

Hum. I’ll look into the feedback. They get great reviews. Thx

Good mechanic does not let what repair stand they use, pinch the brake cable..

You could fashion a secondary clamping surface (wood?) with a notch, to be placed inside the original on the same side as the brake cable. I prefer the seat tube when I am able to clamp there, as it allows the easiest rotation of the bike. It's extremely difficult to securely rotate the bike when clamped on the top tube. Unfortunately clamping on the seat post requires a high stand and also makes it extremely awkward to rotate the bike.

OK. Bit of a mae culpa here. My cable has enough slack that the clamp pushes it slightly toward the center like you see in the photo. Does that matter to you? If I clamp precisely where the housing guide is on the frame, then I run into interference.

Wrap a shop towel around the top tube and clamp on that.

It's a 10. Is it "PCS-10"? We have a bunch of the aluminum framed portable stands at Communicycle, a bicycle ministry where I volunteer, and they all have replaceable rubber cauls that allow for cable clearance. I'm not sure of the model. They're the two-legged models, like my steel "home shop" Park stand, but aluminum. Very nice, light, and pricey.

If you have a Performance Bikes near, this is on sale:

Spin Doctor Pro G3 Work Stand - Performance Bike

Nashbar also has it, but it's called Topeak and can be a really great deal when Nashbar has their 25% off sales:

Topeak Prepstand Elite Work Stand - 2017 - Nashbar

Maybe clamp the seatpost?
Steve

Only if you really want to. I've done fine with no stand at all for decades. Upside down on the handlebars and seat... works. Bought a 9 a few months ago. Same head as the 10 IIRC. I doubt either is better than what you have. Seriously. Spend real money and go higher up the Park Tool food chain, or take a hard look at your stand (and bike) and get 'er done.

Yeah, someone has to say it even if it's not what you want to hear. I wouldn't clamp my own or any other bike by the top tube.

+10 on clamping the seat post, not the top tube. If you have a CF or other "nice" seatpost, you can purchase a cheap aluminum alloy one for About $12 and keep it around just for shop work.

My thoughts exactly! I may have to take off my seat bag, but I do NOT put my bikes in the stand by the top tube!

The clamp on my Ultimate stand clamps from the sides, so the gaps are at the top and bottom when clamping the top tube, and leaves enough room for an off-center brake cable to pass through.

I have an old (30 years old?) Blackburn stand that is like a 3-legged saw horse. Remove front wheel and clamp to stand with provided qr. No tube clamping at all so all cables are clear. It also comes with a wheel truing jig.
Jon

There is always stands like the Feedback Sprint. You will never have the problem you are experiencing but it does come with different challenges, like never having both wheels on at the same time.

Thanks for all who responded! I went down to the local performance and got a hands on feel for the different brands and models. I walked away with a park PSC-10 with a 25% discount. Base price 139. This is a nice stand, ok maybe not the best but very nice for my needs and orders of magnitude better than my 30 year old Blackburn.

As far as clamping to the seat post, I didn’t and don’t see that as an option because only two inches of the post is exposed to clamp on to, which would require pulling the post up high enough to clamp on to and then readjusting when done. PITA. The down tube is an option with the new stand but not with the old one because the rotation clamp could not be tightened enough to hold the bike in set position.

In any event, problem solve and thanks for the advise.

We like this outcome!

If you truly can't be bothered to properly clamp your bike by the seat post, then the seat tube is better than the others. Not correct, but the best of the three choices.

Just pull the brake cable around the vise before you snug it down.