1999 Litespeed Tuscany rebuild
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"Perhaps" your rather overarching skepticism that a Ti EMS fork could perhaps exists in the face of someone telling you about them and providing evidence was, perhaps, off-putting.
Perhaps.
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OK, be put off. As I said, you made your point. We have both invested more time into this topic than it warrants.
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Well, @shelbyfv had the magic touch. We put a longer stem bolt down in there and a little bit of finesse broke the expander bolt free and the stem came out shortly thereafter. It also looks like the headset cups, bearings, and crown race are all in pretty good shape, too. Thanks for the help Shelby!
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Happy we got it loose, that stem is too pretty to destroy!
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Nice job guys!
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I had a little time last night so I decided to check out the headset in detail. Amazingly, the races have no blemishes and look as though they came right from the factory. I pulled the bearings apart, soaked them in some degreaser and they came out clean and are in really good shape too. A fresh coat of grease for the balls and cage, sealed them back up and they're ready to go. I'm waiting for a nicer day to clean the frame really well and once that'd done I'll start in on the re-build.
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Just a quick shout-out to Shimano. I wanted to make sure I had the headset pieces put back in the correct order and didn't have the bearing cartridges flipped up-side-down so I went to their site expecting to find nothing. Their Manuals and Tech Doc site is awesome! Manuals & Tech doc They had an exploded drawing of a circa 1999 HP-6500 headset. I never expected that.
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Made a lot of headway this afternoon. Installed the headset, fork, bottom bracket, cranks, front and rear brakes, front and rear derailleurs, and the new cassette. Chain, cables kits, and tape arrive tomorrow so I'm at a bit of a stopping point today.
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Those headset "races" you pictured aren't really races, they are just cups that locate the bearing cartridges, so they should never show any wear. I had one of those HP-6500 on my '96 Litespeed and it was a great headset. It's too bad Shimano withdrew from headset manufacture after threadless headsets/forks came on the scene.
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Those headset "races" you pictured aren't really races, they are just cups that locate the bearing cartridges, so they should never show any wear. I had one of those HP-6500 on my '96 Litespeed and it was a great headset. It's too bad Shimano withdrew from headset manufacture after threadless headsets/forks came on the scene.
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It's become an almost universal design for mid-to-upper level headsets. Chris King, Cane Creek, FSA, Velo Orange's Gran Cru, and several others use cartridge bearing and most are sealed.
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IMO cartridge bearings in hubs are rubbish, but they're perfect for headsets.
Pity there's no such thing as cup & cone BBs for modern cranks...
Pity there's no such thing as cup & cone BBs for modern cranks...
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Well, I finished installing everything last week and I’ve put about 100 miles on the Tuscany and I must say it was totally worth the rebuild. Some thoughts:
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I was diligent to make sure I greased threads everywhere it was needed and I put some anti-seize on the stem/fork interface. I’m guessing it might be a good idea to pull the stem out once a year, clean it, apply fresh anti-seize and replace it in an attempt to keep the galvanic action at bay.
#69
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Awesome job! Very nicely done and it's a great feeling to rebuild your own bike instead of simply paying someone to do it for you. More pics please!
I found this thread while searching for a question on my 2000 LS Classic as I am upgrading my headset. I hope you don't mind if I ask a question here in your thread. You may know the answer or one of the LS experts as well.
I want to upgrade to a Cane Creek 110 headset. I have a threadless 1" steerer tube on my fork. I'd like to know the inside diameter of the headtube. I'm guess the 1999 and 2000 shared the same size headtube. Can anyone tell me what the ID is on these headtubes?
Thanks in advance and I must admit, although I am partial, LS really did a great job on frame building back in the day. I'm sure they still do, along with Lynskey now, but what a sweet riding machine these bikes are.
I found this thread while searching for a question on my 2000 LS Classic as I am upgrading my headset. I hope you don't mind if I ask a question here in your thread. You may know the answer or one of the LS experts as well.
I want to upgrade to a Cane Creek 110 headset. I have a threadless 1" steerer tube on my fork. I'd like to know the inside diameter of the headtube. I'm guess the 1999 and 2000 shared the same size headtube. Can anyone tell me what the ID is on these headtubes?
Thanks in advance and I must admit, although I am partial, LS really did a great job on frame building back in the day. I'm sure they still do, along with Lynskey now, but what a sweet riding machine these bikes are.
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Awesome job! Very nicely done and it's a great feeling to rebuild your own bike instead of simply paying someone to do it for you. More pics please!
I found this thread while searching for a question on my 2000 LS Classic as I am upgrading my headset. I hope you don't mind if I ask a question here in your thread. You may know the answer or one of the LS experts as well.
I want to upgrade to a Cane Creek 110 headset. I have a threadless 1" steerer tube on my fork. I'd like to know the inside diameter of the headtube. I'm guess the 1999 and 2000 shared the same size headtube. Can anyone tell me what the ID is on these headtubes?
Thanks in advance and I must admit, although I am partial, LS really did a great job on frame building back in the day. I'm sure they still do, along with Lynskey now, but what a sweet riding machine these bikes are.
I found this thread while searching for a question on my 2000 LS Classic as I am upgrading my headset. I hope you don't mind if I ask a question here in your thread. You may know the answer or one of the LS experts as well.
I want to upgrade to a Cane Creek 110 headset. I have a threadless 1" steerer tube on my fork. I'd like to know the inside diameter of the headtube. I'm guess the 1999 and 2000 shared the same size headtube. Can anyone tell me what the ID is on these headtubes?
Thanks in advance and I must admit, although I am partial, LS really did a great job on frame building back in the day. I'm sure they still do, along with Lynskey now, but what a sweet riding machine these bikes are.
I thought I posted some after pictures, but I guess not. Its not as photogenic right now as it should be because I took it out yesterday after a full day of rain. I'll get some up eventually.
I can't specifically answer your question about the headset but I will say that Litespeed were responsive to my questions. There's a Contact tab on their Support page on their website. I just asked my questions and included my bike's serial number and I got a response in a day. I'm sure they can help you out with your headset question.
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2000 was a transition year for Litespeed. That year most of their road bikes had been converted to 1-1/8" headsets but the Classic was an exception and retained the use of a 1" headset. You need a 1" ISO press-in cup type headset and crown race. The cup OD will be 30.2 mm and the crown race ID will be 26.4 mm.
The Cane Creek 110 headset is an excellent one but very expensive. Their 40-series are extremely good and a lot less costly. I have a 40-series on my 1996 Litespeed Catalyst that I converted to a threadless fork and stem and it works perfectly.
The Cane Creek 110 headset is an excellent one but very expensive. Their 40-series are extremely good and a lot less costly. I have a 40-series on my 1996 Litespeed Catalyst that I converted to a threadless fork and stem and it works perfectly.
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And you picked a great bike!
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Hey everyone! I’ve decided to rebuild my 1999 Litespeed Tuscany. I bought her new when I didn’t have a lot of responsibilities in my life. It was my dream bike back in the day and that first year I put a few thousand miles on her. A year later my daughter was born and my riding time dropped significantly for the next three years and dipped even more when my son was born, we moved and I took a new traveling job all in quick succession. My job required me to be on the road Monday-Friday for weeks on end, so when I was home I spent time with my family rather than on the bike. So the Tuscany stayed in the garage unused for about a decade. A few years ago, I changed positions where I wasn’t traveling so I got the Litespeed back on the road and started slowly by putting a few hundred miles on her per year. In 2016 I decided I was going to get back into cycling whole-hog and to celebrate I upgraded to a Cervelo R3. Since getting the Cervelo, the Litespeed has been hanging in the garage and I’ve decided to rebuild her.
The Tuscany has all of the original Shimano Ultegra 6500 group on it and the Mavic Open Pro wheels with Wheelsmith spokes and Ultegra hubs. Up front there is the original Look carbon fork. I’ll still ride the R3 as my main bike, but I’ll look to the Tuscany for inclimate weather days and riding in the late fall thru early spring. I also expect to get her out during the summer to change things up a bit too.
Goals (in no particular order):
With all of the above in mind, I’ve decided to replace all of the Ultegra 6500 with 105 5800. This isn’t going to ever be a weight weenie bike, so no sense in paying a premium for Dura Ace. The latest Ultegra is more than I want to spend, although the price for 6800 is pretty decent. 105 5800 is less, gets me 95% of the performance of Ultegra plus 5800 comes in silver which is in keeping with the same aesthetic from when the bike was new. So 5800 it is.
As for the wheels, I’ve already replaced the original Mavic Open Pros with the set of Mavic Aksiums that came with my R3. Not the sportiest of options but solid nonetheless. I’m going to keep the handlebars, fork, stem, seatpost and saddle as they all have life left in them.
The plan is to keep my eye out for deals on 5800 components from online retailers and scour E-Bay for lightly used or take-offs. I’m finding that silver 5800 components are harder to find than their black counterparts so I’m being patient and don’t expect to have everything I need until this spring.
Anyway, this will be my first strip-down and rebuild job. I’m looking forward to the process and I’m finding the Park Tools videos to be a really great resource, but I know I’m going to need some coaching. I’m starting this thread as both a way to document the process and a place where I can ask questions when I get stuck along the way.
Thanks in advance for all of the questions I’ll be asking! The “before” pictures will be coming soon.
--Brad
The Tuscany has all of the original Shimano Ultegra 6500 group on it and the Mavic Open Pro wheels with Wheelsmith spokes and Ultegra hubs. Up front there is the original Look carbon fork. I’ll still ride the R3 as my main bike, but I’ll look to the Tuscany for inclimate weather days and riding in the late fall thru early spring. I also expect to get her out during the summer to change things up a bit too.
Goals (in no particular order):
With all of the above in mind, I’ve decided to replace all of the Ultegra 6500 with 105 5800. This isn’t going to ever be a weight weenie bike, so no sense in paying a premium for Dura Ace. The latest Ultegra is more than I want to spend, although the price for 6800 is pretty decent. 105 5800 is less, gets me 95% of the performance of Ultegra plus 5800 comes in silver which is in keeping with the same aesthetic from when the bike was new. So 5800 it is.
As for the wheels, I’ve already replaced the original Mavic Open Pros with the set of Mavic Aksiums that came with my R3. Not the sportiest of options but solid nonetheless. I’m going to keep the handlebars, fork, stem, seatpost and saddle as they all have life left in them.
The plan is to keep my eye out for deals on 5800 components from online retailers and scour E-Bay for lightly used or take-offs. I’m finding that silver 5800 components are harder to find than their black counterparts so I’m being patient and don’t expect to have everything I need until this spring.
Anyway, this will be my first strip-down and rebuild job. I’m looking forward to the process and I’m finding the Park Tools videos to be a really great resource, but I know I’m going to need some coaching. I’m starting this thread as both a way to document the process and a place where I can ask questions when I get stuck along the way.
Thanks in advance for all of the questions I’ll be asking! The “before” pictures will be coming soon.
--Brad
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I'm afraid such a general question is just too hard to answer. I'm pretty sure that Litespeed had a few revisions of the Tuscany so I'm not sure what you would want or need. For my build Shimano 105 was the best bang for the buck but you may want something more high end. Contrary to your observation, I can get at least 25 tires and probably 28s in there. Mine came with a Look fork but you might have something different.
My biggest piece of advice would be to pick a groupset and get all the parts as a package. That way you'll know they will work together. The second biggest piece of advice would be to double check any required tools. You'll notice in the thread above that I got lots of good advice around bottom bracket tools.
If this is your first project bike, expect to put in a significant amount of time learning how to properly install and adjust both the front and rear derailleurs. If you decide on a Shimano groupset, read every Dealer Manual for each part at least 3 times before you attempt to install it. Go here for the manuals; the ones that start with "DM" are the ones you want. YouTube is your friend as is the Park Tools web site.
This forum is also a great resource but if you come across a problem ask a specific question to get a specific answer. Good luck!
My biggest piece of advice would be to pick a groupset and get all the parts as a package. That way you'll know they will work together. The second biggest piece of advice would be to double check any required tools. You'll notice in the thread above that I got lots of good advice around bottom bracket tools.
If this is your first project bike, expect to put in a significant amount of time learning how to properly install and adjust both the front and rear derailleurs. If you decide on a Shimano groupset, read every Dealer Manual for each part at least 3 times before you attempt to install it. Go here for the manuals; the ones that start with "DM" are the ones you want. YouTube is your friend as is the Park Tools web site.
This forum is also a great resource but if you come across a problem ask a specific question to get a specific answer. Good luck!
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