Single clunk when pedaling hard and again when braking
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: St Louis area
Bikes: '20 Specialized Roubiax
Single clunk when pedaling hard and again when braking
I've been searching, but so far no luck, so maybe you smart peeps can help me out.
I hear (and feel) a mild clunk or pop when I start pedaling hard. It only does it once and then it doesn't happen again until I brake with the rear brake (but never when I brake with the front).
I thought it might be the rear disc brake itself, but I have since inspected and re-tightened everything and it did not change a thing.
It feels like it could be coming from the BB/crank area or the rear hub, but I don't have any experience with taking those apart...so I don't know what I would be looking for.
I'd take it to the LBS, but I'm worried that they will have it more than a day (and I can't afford that since we are down to one car - which the wife takes - so I have to commute to work on my bike on the weekdays).
Any ideas would be appreciated.
I have a Felt V55 with about 1000 miles on it now, if that helps.
I hear (and feel) a mild clunk or pop when I start pedaling hard. It only does it once and then it doesn't happen again until I brake with the rear brake (but never when I brake with the front).
I thought it might be the rear disc brake itself, but I have since inspected and re-tightened everything and it did not change a thing.
It feels like it could be coming from the BB/crank area or the rear hub, but I don't have any experience with taking those apart...so I don't know what I would be looking for.
I'd take it to the LBS, but I'm worried that they will have it more than a day (and I can't afford that since we are down to one car - which the wife takes - so I have to commute to work on my bike on the weekdays).
Any ideas would be appreciated.
I have a Felt V55 with about 1000 miles on it now, if that helps.
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,327
Likes: 1,112
From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Not much to go on, but you might check for evidence that your rear axle is moving in the dropouts. My hypothesis is that the chain is puling the drive side forward under power and the brake is pulling it back. Try checking the clearance to the chain stays before and after the accelerate/brake phases.
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
I agree that's not much to go on. Just for fun, grab the top of your rear tire and try to wiggle it from side-to-side. If it moves, you've got loose hub bearings and that needs to be fixed pronto.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#5
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: St Louis area
Bikes: '20 Specialized Roubiax
I'll take a closer look at the chainstay when it gets lighter out...
Last edited by RifterAD; 01-25-18 at 11:22 AM.
#6
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#7
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,192
Likes: 5,328
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Broken rear axle, now held together by the quick-release? In the old days, taking the wheel out to see would have been the worst possible thing you could do if you needed it ride the bike. Release the QR and the loose ball bearings would spill all over the floor and putting them back was impossible. Maybe you can reconstruct a sealed bearing hub's axle after pulling the wheel but if I really needed the bike, I wouldn't gamble on it.
If I were you, I'd pick up another rear wheel and only then, pull out your current wheel and check the axle.
To follow DiabloScott's thought, maybe ride the bike, do that hard start and feel the clunk, glide to a stop, put the bike in a solid strand (or tie the front wheel to a tree) and try pulling the rear wheel back and see if you can get that second clunk. Look for any cracks between teh BB shell and the rear dropout, especially on the right chainstay. Special attention the the chainstay to BB joint and chainstay to dropout joint. If nothing there, I'd then look along the seatstays.
Ben
If I were you, I'd pick up another rear wheel and only then, pull out your current wheel and check the axle.
To follow DiabloScott's thought, maybe ride the bike, do that hard start and feel the clunk, glide to a stop, put the bike in a solid strand (or tie the front wheel to a tree) and try pulling the rear wheel back and see if you can get that second clunk. Look for any cracks between teh BB shell and the rear dropout, especially on the right chainstay. Special attention the the chainstay to BB joint and chainstay to dropout joint. If nothing there, I'd then look along the seatstays.
Ben
#8
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22,676
Likes: 2,643
From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
My '91 Eros does a similar thing. It's some combination of worn freehub pawls and grease migration from the wheel bearing. Since the latest Ultegra hubs are largely the same construction, you might check if your freehub feels gummy -- does the chain droop at all, or try to push the crank around while coasting?
Not saying that's the cause, but it's easy to check.
Not saying that's the cause, but it's easy to check.
#9
It's MY mountain

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 10,190
Likes: 4,274
From: Mt.Diablo
Bikes: Klein, Merckx, Trek
To follow DiabloScott's thought, maybe ride the bike, do that hard start and feel the clunk, glide to a stop, put the bike in a solid strand (or tie the front wheel to a tree) and try pulling the rear wheel back and see if you can get that second clunk. Look for any cracks between teh BB shell and the rear dropout, especially on the right chainstay. Special attention the the chainstay to BB joint and chainstay to dropout joint. If nothing there, I'd then look along the seatstays.
Ben
Ben
And yeah, near the dropout and the BB are the most suspect places, unless there's damage from a kickstand or something.
#11
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Well, there's bragging rights but, after the problem is determined, the thread disappears and nobody cares anymore.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#12
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,192
Likes: 5,328
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
If the chainstay is cracked, it ought to show itself with a little force applied from the side - just hold the bike up with the brakes on and sort of step on the chainstay or BB laterally and vertically (like we used to do for evaluating how flexy a frame was) and listen for crunchy noises. OP's bike is aluminum so it should be obvious.
And yeah, near the dropout and the BB are the most suspect places, unless there's damage from a kickstand or something.
And yeah, near the dropout and the BB are the most suspect places, unless there's damage from a kickstand or something.
Ben
#13
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: St Louis area
Bikes: '20 Specialized Roubiax
Thanks for all the feedback fellas!
I briefly checked during lunch and I don't see any obvious cracks in the chainstay or BB areas, so I'll have to apply some stress like DiabloScott & 79pmooney said and check again just to be sure. I'll start taking some of it apart to see if it's a sleeve, hub, or axle. I wish I had a spare rear wheel so that I could simply swap that on to see if it eliminates things (which would help me isolate the issue). oh well. lol
If I don't see anything obvious, I'll likely just drop it off at the LBS tomorrow and then let you all know what it was. Either way, more to follow...
I briefly checked during lunch and I don't see any obvious cracks in the chainstay or BB areas, so I'll have to apply some stress like DiabloScott & 79pmooney said and check again just to be sure. I'll start taking some of it apart to see if it's a sleeve, hub, or axle. I wish I had a spare rear wheel so that I could simply swap that on to see if it eliminates things (which would help me isolate the issue). oh well. lol
If I don't see anything obvious, I'll likely just drop it off at the LBS tomorrow and then let you all know what it was. Either way, more to follow...
#14
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: St Louis area
Bikes: '20 Specialized Roubiax
So it's definitely the rear hub according to my LBS.
I just dropped it off and they quickly found that it was something loose in the hub. I think he said that whatever it was, it should be finger tight but he couldn't tighten it with his fingers. He said they will completely take apart the hub, clean it up, and see if it fixes the issue. If not, they'll have to order part(s).
I just dropped it off and they quickly found that it was something loose in the hub. I think he said that whatever it was, it should be finger tight but he couldn't tighten it with his fingers. He said they will completely take apart the hub, clean it up, and see if it fixes the issue. If not, they'll have to order part(s).
#15
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: St Louis area
Bikes: '20 Specialized Roubiax
Update: Turns out the bearings were worn/pitted. It was allowing the axle to shift under force (both braking and stopping). If I had waiting much longer to address it, it might have put enough stress on the axle to the point where it could snap it. Yikes!!
New bearings are on order.
I was open to getting a new hub or new wheels instead, but I have Quick Release design and apparently they don't carry that anymore since everyone has gone Thru-Axle now. My bike is only 2 years old and it's already out of date!! lol
New bearings are on order.
I was open to getting a new hub or new wheels instead, but I have Quick Release design and apparently they don't carry that anymore since everyone has gone Thru-Axle now. My bike is only 2 years old and it's already out of date!! lol





