Help! Need a (DIY) solution for my Hubs!
#1
Help! Need a (DIY) solution for my Hubs!
I bought a 2nd hand hubs. It's a Shimano Dura ace HB 7600. and the dust cone or cover is kinda small and it's exposing the bearings for a millimeter or so. And I have gone to a lot of bike shops (Believe me) and they say they have NONE! and the only way to buy a Dust cone is to ship the Shimano Hb 7600 dust cap from Japan. And I can't afford that and also i can't wait. Help guys even a DIY method would do. or.... That exposure is pretty fine? Need your helps guys
#2
Junior Member
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From: A Dutchman in Budapest, Hungary.
Bikes: Koga Miyata GranTourer 1985, Koga Miyata Adventure 1992, Cinelli Sentiero, Giant Terrago 1993, Presto Amsterdam 1975(?), Dahon Classic III Stainless
I would not worry about a 1mm gap. That's actually pretty good, most bicycle hub dust seals are worse, especially the vintage ones. Not a problem if you regularly (once a year or so) clean and regrease the bearings.
#3
I'm not sure if it's 1mm. But I can see half of the bearings... And I can't give pics cause I don't know how on a cellphone :'(
#4
Mechanic/Tourist
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
Run a bead of silicone seal around the cones, tapered up to the locknuts. A very small amount of grease or oil on the dust cap area will prevent the silicone from sticking to the hub flange. It will seal the bearing, and once it cures it can be removed and replaced. It's a trick I used when I commuted year-round in MI and no hubs had seals. I also used a short section of inner tube, greased on the inside, around the lower headset bearing.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 02-10-18 at 09:43 AM.
#5
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Industrial "O" rings come in all sorts of sizes. Take your hub and axle to a better hardware store and see if they have a small enough cross section ring in a close to snug diameter. Multiple rings can be "ganged" on the outside of the axle spacers/cones/lock nuts to further keep a seal against the hub shell/freehub body. Stein does this with their Zerked BB Grease Injection System. Andy
#6
mechanically sound
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From: Dover, NH
Bikes: Indy Fab steel deluxe, Aventon cordoba, S-works stumpy fsr, Masi vincere, Dahon mu uno, Outcast 29 commuter
I would probably just pack the gap with grease and ride. Re-check regularly.
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#7
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
I'm ignorant about things racing, but since that's a track hub, is it supposed to be that way to drip oil in it**********
#8
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Are you sure that you have the right cone?
It's easy to find a replacement cone that matches the axle threads. Finding a replacement cone that matches the hub's dust cover can be another story.
It's easy to find a replacement cone that matches the axle threads. Finding a replacement cone that matches the hub's dust cover can be another story.
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#9
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Even so, if you're using it for track racing, it's fine. It's not so much to drip oil, though that can be done. It's more that because it's a track hub, it's not designed to be weatherproof. Indoor tracks of course don't have weather, and outdoor tracks are slippery when wet. An unnecessary lip seal will only add friction. Granted, not enough to matter unless you're going for a world record. But some track racers weight-balance their wheels too.
(Only in professional Keirin do riders race on a wet track. Their tracks are very grippy, in fact abrasive. That's one reason they pad up more like a hockey player than a cyclist.)
#10
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
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From: Coeur d' Alene
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#11
#14

And btw this is my DIY solution... And the current bearing cone is not in contact with the bearing... and im still gonna file the rubber O ring so that the bearing cone will smoothly rolls and not Compress with the O rings and no Tight spin
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