Rust resistant multi-tools?
#1
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From: northern Deep South
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Rust resistant multi-tools?
It looks like another of my multi-tools has been left out in a damp saddle bag too long; rust is popping out all over. Is there a good choice for an all-weather rider?
I'm starting to think I only rent these things, instead of buying them.
I'm starting to think I only rent these things, instead of buying them.
#3
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From: San Diego, CA
You could also use some type of wax lube to coat them with which will help for awhile and wont get hands all grubby when you use them. Boeshield would be ideal but any type of wax chain lube would work well too.
#5
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From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Why? I have a couple of Leatherman tools, 1 mini (made in USA) which I got at the PX in Ramstein back in '97, no rust, a 2nd which is a warranty replacement and is not marked made in USA shows signs of rust after a few years of very light use. If you can get a made in USA one, great, otherwise, you may as well save your money and get a cheaper CN one, as they will be no better for rust.
For bike specific tools, they all rust to an extent, have got Park, Topeak, Lezyene, Canyon and various others, they all need to be cared for/oiled during their lives.
For bike specific tools, they all rust to an extent, have got Park, Topeak, Lezyene, Canyon and various others, they all need to be cared for/oiled during their lives.
#6
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From: New Jersey
Tools, even stainless ones, need to be oiled to protect them long-term.
Of course, you could have the bits plated in gold if you have money burning a hole in your pocket. It would eventually lift, starting at the ends, where the bits pivot or transfer force, but until then, I suspect you would have no problems.
Or you could periodically lightly oil them.
Of course, you could have the bits plated in gold if you have money burning a hole in your pocket. It would eventually lift, starting at the ends, where the bits pivot or transfer force, but until then, I suspect you would have no problems.
Or you could periodically lightly oil them.
#9
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From: Mid Atlantic / USA
Bikes: 2017 Specialized Crosstrail / 2013 Trek Crossrip Elite
If it just sits there for long periods of time in the bag and you don't use it a ton, try gun oil.
Especially if your tools are steel. Gun oil is made to protect steel. It works really well. It coats very thin. And it'll be relatively dry to the touch on the surface areas while staying liquid in the joints and such.
My second option would be paraffin chain wax if you use the tools more. It'll be dry to the touch completely. But it'll wear off quicker.
Especially if your tools are steel. Gun oil is made to protect steel. It works really well. It coats very thin. And it'll be relatively dry to the touch on the surface areas while staying liquid in the joints and such.
My second option would be paraffin chain wax if you use the tools more. It'll be dry to the touch completely. But it'll wear off quicker.
#10
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From: northern Deep South
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Perhaps I should have noted that I carry the tool "just in case" but typically don't use it very much; maybe every year or two. I've tried the Ziploc bag, and the jostling wore holes in it.
Boeshield alone won't work; this one had a coat and is rusting anyway.
If it just sits there for long periods of time in the bag and you don't use it a ton, try gun oil.
Especially if your tools are steel. Gun oil is made to protect steel. It works really well. It coats very thin. And it'll be relatively dry to the touch on the surface areas while staying liquid in the joints and such.
Especially if your tools are steel. Gun oil is made to protect steel. It works really well. It coats very thin. And it'll be relatively dry to the touch on the surface areas while staying liquid in the joints and such.
Thanks for the tip! I'll try this in conjunction with the Ziploc. Try to protect the oil from rubbing off on the spare tube, and the oil may protect it from moisture that gets through the bag.
#11
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From: Williston FL
Bikes: 1988 Panasonic, 1989 Fuji, Schwinn Beach Cruiser
In Florida here. Between getting occasionally caught in the rain or just the humidity, I am in the ziplock club. You have to stay protected.
Oil doesn’t hurt. I am not worried about getting greasy, I keep latex gloves in my bag so I can do roadside work and not have to get my bar tape all dirty.
Oil doesn’t hurt. I am not worried about getting greasy, I keep latex gloves in my bag so I can do roadside work and not have to get my bar tape all dirty.
#17
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I suspect if you looked at a Leatherman catalog it would be easy to answer your own question. That is what I would have to do and Google would be a good place to start your search. I also have a Genuine Swiss Army bicycle wrench but it is big, heavy and bulky. Roger
#19
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From: Texas
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Try RemOil (Remington oil) or Birchwood-Casey Sheath or Barricade (same stuff, renamed Barricade). Best stuff I've found for rust protection of carbon steel tools and other items, without excessively greasy or oily treatments.
RemOil contains PTFE ("Teflon") and adds some light lubrication.
Sheath/Barricade is just a rust preventive, without significant lubricating properties. It has a unique quality of being able to spread into niches, crevices, nooks and crannies that can't be easily reached without dismantling an item, without leaving a heavy coating. Most of the residue can be wiped off after application, using a shop rag, paper towel, etc.
RemOil contains PTFE ("Teflon") and adds some light lubrication.
Sheath/Barricade is just a rust preventive, without significant lubricating properties. It has a unique quality of being able to spread into niches, crevices, nooks and crannies that can't be easily reached without dismantling an item, without leaving a heavy coating. Most of the residue can be wiped off after application, using a shop rag, paper towel, etc.
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