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Remove rim decals?

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Old 02-25-18 | 08:30 AM
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Remove rim decals?

I have a pair of alloy Fulcrum racing sport DB wheels with some over the top graphics and lettering. Its just stickers, but they are really hard to remove. Trying to peel them leaves both big parts of the stickers and the glue.

Do you have any tips on how to remove them?

Thanks
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Old 02-25-18 | 08:42 AM
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goo gone. leave it on there and see if that helps break down the adhesive. OR good old fashion hair dryer and elbow grease.
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Old 02-25-18 | 10:14 AM
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^^^^^
goo gone very helpful on the adhesive
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Old 02-25-18 | 12:50 PM
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Oh, thanks.

Im not in the US and Im not familiar with a similar local product? How about acetone, white gas, petrol, ..., ?
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Old 02-25-18 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Racing Dan
Oh, thanks.

Im not in the US and Im not familiar with a similar local product? How about acetone, white gas, petrol, ..., ?
I've had good success with odorless mineral spirits and a plastic "scrubbie."
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Old 02-25-18 | 01:05 PM
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just try some basic rubbing alcohol. Or, if you're courageous try nail polish remover.
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Old 02-25-18 | 01:06 PM
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Acetone should remove the stickers and glue but may also damage any paint or clear coat on the rims. If the rims are just anodized it should be OK.

Kerosine or mineral spirits should work but white gas or petrol are too flammable and dangerous to recommend.
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Old 02-25-18 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ramzilla
just try some basic rubbing alcohol. Or, if you're courageous try nail polish remover.
Rubbing alcohol (aka Isopropyl alcohol) probably won't work and "nail polish remover" is basically acetone and the warnings I posted above apply to it too.
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Old 02-25-18 | 05:47 PM
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I've had very good luck removing decals/stickers by heating them with a heat gun (preferred) or a hair dryer. 'Trick is to get it to the temperature at which the adhesive is soft, but not so hot that the decal/sticker does not tear apart. There is usually some residual adhesive left on the frame or wheel. Lacquer thinner will normally cut through this pretty quickly, but, as others have cautioned, you should try whatever solvent you intend to use on a part that will not show to be certain it won't damage the underlying finish.

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Old 02-25-18 | 07:57 PM
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I use a thin (0.73mm) nylon guitar pick. Then a little mineral spirits to clean up the residue.
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Old 02-25-18 | 08:58 PM
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Old 02-26-18 | 07:33 AM
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Lighter fluid might work.
Be careful, of course.
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Old 02-26-18 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by NJgreyhead
Lighter fluid might work.
Be careful, of course.
Uhh, that like recommending gasoline. Too dangerous when mineral spirits or kerosene work just as well and are a lot safer.
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Old 02-26-18 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Rubbing alcohol (aka Isopropyl alcohol) probably won't work and "nail polish remover" is basically acetone and the warnings I posted above apply to it too.
Apparently there's an oil based nail polish remover as well. Not all are acetone based. The oil based one should be fine on the pain (haven't tested it myself yet, happy with mineral spirits).
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Old 02-26-18 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Slaninar
Apparently there's an oil based nail polish remover as well. Not all are acetone based. The oil based one should be fine on the pain (haven't tested it myself yet, happy with mineral spirits).
I don't think it's "oil based". Most nail polish removers are mostly acetone with some cosmetic oil added to prevent drying the skin from it's use. So they do contain oil but it's not there as the solvent.
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Old 02-26-18 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
I don't think it's "oil based". Most nail polish removers are mostly acetone with some cosmetic oil added to prevent drying the skin from it's use. So they do contain oil but it's not there as the solvent.
I had thought so too. But women... they KNOW!


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Old 02-26-18 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Slaninar
I had thought so too. But women... they KNOW!


Point made! I wonder what the solvent really is.
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Old 02-26-18 | 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dean51
I've had very good luck removing decals/stickers by heating them with a heat gun (preferred) or a hair dryer. 'Trick is to get it to the temperature at which the adhesive is soft, but not so hot that the decal/sticker does not tear apart. There is usually some residual adhesive left on the frame or wheel. Lacquer thinner will normally cut through this pretty quickly, but, as others have cautioned, you should try whatever solvent you intend to use on a part that will not show to be certain it won't damage the underlying finish.

Dean
I second the hair dryer method, very clean and not messy at all. If there is some adhesive left after the decal comes off, blast it with the hair dryer again to make the glue really soft then wipe it off with a rag and some rubbing alcohol.
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Old 02-27-18 | 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Point made! I wonder what the solvent really is.
No idea, but am interested. A friend had used it for decal removement, on advice from his wife. Who corrected my ignorance when I asked about acetone and paint damage.
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Old 02-27-18 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Racing Dan
Oh, thanks.

Im not in the US and Im not familiar with a similar local product? How about acetone, white gas, petrol, ..., ?
My first go to is masking tape. Wrap tape sticky side out around you fingers and pat the left over glue. It will often be lifted off with the tape. Keep moving the tape to keep a fresh area to contact the glue. It is clean, safe and easy and can be done with the tire on the rim.

If that fails, I have had good results removing gum from labels with these materials:

1. Methyl rubbing alcohol (not isopropyl) Try on a small area first and if it does not work try another.
2. Coleman Lantern Fluid (White gas) - OUTSIDE ONLY away from any flame or spark! Do not risk using petrol or regular gasoline. Both can be harmful to paint or glued joints, so if the rim is painted do not use.
3. WD-40. Most Safe, but leaves a film which must be cleaned off with dish detergent.

#1 and #2 will evaporate quickly alowing you to feel if any sticky is left.

For #1, #2, and #3, remove tires, tube and rim strip FIRST to avoid contamination or potential chemical deterioration. After removal of the glue the rim must be spotless clean or stopping power will be compomised if using rim brakes.

Also, depending on the label and adhesive, you can use a hair dryer and it will often allow the glue to stay on the label as it is removed.

BTW, #2 is great for cleaning chains.
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Old 03-01-18 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Dean51
I've had very good luck removing decals/stickers by heating them with a heat gun (preferred) or a hair dryer. 'Trick is to get it to the temperature at which the adhesive is soft, but not so hot that the decal/sticker does not tear apart. There is usually some residual adhesive left on the frame or wheel. Lacquer thinner will normally cut through this pretty quickly, but, as others have cautioned, you should try whatever solvent you intend to use on a part that will not show to be certain it won't damage the underlying finish.

Dean
Yes, Heat is your best friend here. I find it easiest to heat up one end until you can start to peel then advance the heat as you tension the sticker.
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Old 03-01-18 | 10:10 PM
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When removing residue I go for Triflow, it always leaves things free of residue and with a slight scent of bananas (at least according to some mechanics) and no damage. Granted you will want to clean the rim with iso alcohol afterwards especially if you have a braking surface on the rim.

Plus with the Triflow out you could lube up your cables as well.
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Old 03-02-18 | 07:41 AM
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I saw two good answers and I'm piling on here. Heat! It takes a couple minutes but a hair dryer will work great. It takes the most minimal solvent to remove any remaining glue residue. Be wary of a heat gun for this - have patience and the hair dryer will work fine.
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Old 03-02-18 | 09:10 AM
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Old 03-02-18 | 10:43 AM
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Heat and dental floss to remove the sticker. Solvent of your choice to remove the goo.
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