compression plug
#1
compression plug
I'm completing a build, and i have one final thing to do.
I have worked out the correct stack height for my fit. However my stem now sits below the compression plug that is currently in there. So i need to get my steerer tube trimmed at my LBS.
my question is:
can i safely ride to my LBS (with my stem below the compression plug) without damaging anything?
it is a short ride (7km)
or would y'all recommend i just walk it over / take it on the subway?
thanks,
I have worked out the correct stack height for my fit. However my stem now sits below the compression plug that is currently in there. So i need to get my steerer tube trimmed at my LBS.
my question is:
can i safely ride to my LBS (with my stem below the compression plug) without damaging anything?
it is a short ride (7km)
or would y'all recommend i just walk it over / take it on the subway?
thanks,
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Ride it over. Tighten the stem clamp bolts enough to keep it in place but don't go nuts with the torque. Once the steerer has been cut to the correct length, torque the bolts to spec. The reenforcement of the compression plug is a useful safeguard but not essential for many forks.
#6
Ride it over. Tighten the stem clamp bolts enough to keep it in place but don't go nuts with the torque. Once the steerer has been cut to the correct length, torque the bolts to spec. The reenforcement of the compression plug is a useful safeguard but not essential for many forks.
currently I'm 1 newton metre below the recommended torque. I'll ride it over, and re-torque once it's all done.
#9
#10
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14,779
Likes: 743
From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
I disagree with those who recommend riding it over.
Carbon layup in steerer tubes is vertical, top to bottom, and they have great resistance to bending loads. There are usually no fibers running around the tube horizontally and so the tube has little resistance to crushing loads.
Slight pressure from the stem in an area not supported by the compression plug or slight pressure from the compression plug in an area not supported by the stem can deform (expand or crush) the tube significantly. It is very easy to deform the steerer tube to the point where it begins to crack by doing this. Loads from riding only exacerbate the risk.
A compression plug 30 mm above the stem means that a significant portion of the steerer is unsupported. Don't risk riding it.
-Tim-
Carbon layup in steerer tubes is vertical, top to bottom, and they have great resistance to bending loads. There are usually no fibers running around the tube horizontally and so the tube has little resistance to crushing loads.
Slight pressure from the stem in an area not supported by the compression plug or slight pressure from the compression plug in an area not supported by the stem can deform (expand or crush) the tube significantly. It is very easy to deform the steerer tube to the point where it begins to crack by doing this. Loads from riding only exacerbate the risk.
A compression plug 30 mm above the stem means that a significant portion of the steerer is unsupported. Don't risk riding it.
-Tim-
#11
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14,779
Likes: 743
From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
10 minutes long but definitely worth watching. It explains expansion plugs and steerer tubes very well and shows a vivid example of how they are easily deformed.
-Tim-
-Tim-
#15
If your cables are long enough, you could put all the spacers under the stem and clamp the stem at the top of the steer tube just long enough to ride to the shop.
#16
Reviving this oldish thread.
So, I ended up walking the bike over to get it trimmed
It’s all good.
One more question:
The fork I’m using is a Columbus minimal 1”
I’m using a shim inside the 1 1/8” stem, with 1” spacers.
My Columbus minimal fork came with a really nice Columbus top-cap (with a nice dove graphic) that I would really like to use. Except, it’s a 1 1/8” top-cap
... it came with the 1” expander plug I bought from Henry-James. Go figure.
The fork recommends a 5mm spacer above the stem. So that’s what I’m using.
Could I put a 5mm 1 1/8” spacer instead of the 1” spacer above my stem, and drop my nice Columbus top-cap on there? ... or would that be unwise?
Thanks.
So, I ended up walking the bike over to get it trimmed
It’s all good.
One more question:
The fork I’m using is a Columbus minimal 1”
I’m using a shim inside the 1 1/8” stem, with 1” spacers.
My Columbus minimal fork came with a really nice Columbus top-cap (with a nice dove graphic) that I would really like to use. Except, it’s a 1 1/8” top-cap
... it came with the 1” expander plug I bought from Henry-James. Go figure.The fork recommends a 5mm spacer above the stem. So that’s what I’m using.
Could I put a 5mm 1 1/8” spacer instead of the 1” spacer above my stem, and drop my nice Columbus top-cap on there? ... or would that be unwise?
Thanks.
Last edited by jonelliotelliot; 03-27-18 at 09:01 PM.
#18
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14,779
Likes: 743
From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
An compression plug is not used however. Once the sleeve is in place it uses a regular starfangled nut.
-Tim-
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
The reason for the spacer above the steerer is to assure the stem is completely supported by the steerer with no overhang. That spacer serves no structural purpose so you could use a 1-1/8" spacer if you wish. You will want to keep it centered as you adjust the headset preload but after the stem clamp bolts are torqued properly it won't matter. If it shifts around while riding you could use a thin shim to keep it centered.
#20
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
So one expects the relatively thick carbon steerer, + your adding the sleeve
gets you in the range of a 1" threadless fork steerer star fangled nut. .. that ID around 22,2mm..
If the liner is long enough you have an aluminum and carbon steerer, which is not bad... belt & braces..
A good machine shop could thread the inside of your sleeve and make a cap of aluminum to thread into it,
the cap being also threaded for the pre load bolt.. then that does the star nut job ..
and offers less weight and more bragging rights..
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-28-18 at 01:03 PM.
#21
The reason for the spacer above the steerer is to assure the stem is completely supported by the steerer with no overhang. That spacer serves no structural purpose so you could use a 1-1/8" spacer if you wish. You will want to keep it centered as you adjust the headset preload but after the stem clamp bolts are torqued properly it won't matter. If it shifts around while riding you could use a thin shim to keep it centered.
thanks.
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