2nd same question in a week..

flexible V brake noodles ? check.[x]

TW Factories building bikes manages to buy a rotating stirrup V brake , for their builds, on the Island..

so that can self align in a better direction.. Ask Bike Shop to get one?

IMO,
Maguras HS 11/22/33 Hydraulic Rim Brakes really have an advantage over cable V brakes in situations like this.



...

you could just take the cable end off and slide the housing in the cable stop at the end of the noodle

i never have cable ends there

here's my solution converting centre pull bakes to V brakes, just a quick mock up, still needs tweaking
it's as responsive as the front!
if i ran the cable through the extisting housing meant for the centre pull brakes there would've been too many curves

One possible solution is to route the noodle from under the bail/clip. Two ways to do this that I've worked with- one is to replace the V brake with one that has the clip attached to a rotating nipple, then it can accommodate whatever noodle entry angle needed. The other is to grind off the clip's pivot rivet and re attach the noodle upside down with a small bolt and two nuts (locked against each other). Sometimes some recurving of the noodle helps to reduce the amount of it's routing awkwardness.

here's a shot of a bike I made a couple of years ago with a similar challenge and the upside down clip.

LM- Why would you show a shot of a bike with a completely different cable routing (men's bike with top tube routing) and also have the shot show the noodle not even seated fully in the clip? Not really pertaining to the OP's situation, even closely... Andy

it was to show i don't use cable ends on noodle cable stops, i remember the cable wouldn't seat properly on a ladies bike, removing the cable end solved the problem

and like i said it was a quick mock up, i'd like to shorten the housing a little more, slide the cable stop back a little on the top tube, and i wasn't fused about placing a rubber boot just yet

"One possible solution is to route the noodle from under the bail/clip. Two ways to do this that I've worked with- one is to replace the V brake with one that has the clip attached to a rotating nipple, then it can accommodate whatever noodle entry angle needed. The other is to grind off the clip's pivot rivet and re attach the noodle upside down with a small bolt and two nuts (locked against each other). Sometimes some recurving of the noodle helps to reduce the amount of it's routing awkwardness."


The OP could just enter the noodle under the noodle holder, swing it to the left a bit, It's the same on my Raleigh ladies hybrid, and could by pass the cable housing guide on the frame for better flow

If it was my bike, I'd just skip the vertical cable housing guide. I'm thinking that will make the cable housing line up with the noodle much better.

Fair enough about the lack of casing end ferules, I guess. Although the increased slop a 5mm casing has when placed in a fitting designed for a ferule (about 5.8+mm) allows for casing to rock/shift and otherwise not fit as positively. This will often create a bit more mushy feel at the lever as some of the lever's pull is trying to align the casing within the stop/noodle.

Leaving the noodle clip as is, with it's cable slot above, and running the noodle from under means you loose the QR function to a great degree. Otherwise that's fine too.

I guess my initial take was that with a top tube ran cable/casing the entry angles of the cable/noodle are pretty much a non issue, and I felt the OP's question was about the loopiness of the casing when it's entry into the noodle was a nice smooth one.

A side note about the bike I pictured. The rider has very little hand strength, although good dexterity. She has a hard enough time with detaching the noodle from it's clip even with a nice smooth casing path (like with the typical ft set up). When I built the frame and assembled the bike we discussed the various priorities she had and strong brakes were #1. Further down the list was no leg/casing contact. I achieved both but at the loss of releasing the noodle easily. The underside routing makes this coordination more difficult. The solution for on the road flat repairs (and not have to pump the tire back up after the wheel has been reinstalled, she finds it far easier to inflate the tire with her frame pump when it's off the bike) is installing a cable coupler. Like what bikes with S&S frame couplers use to separate the cables with. A pair of tiny wrenches made from 1/8" AL strip serve to loosen then retighten the coupler halves. She has practiced splitting the coupler and finds this solution to be far easier then dealing with the rear brake noodle. Andy