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-   -   Fork replacement troubles (https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/1142936-fork-replacement-troubles.html)

OleksiiO 05-02-18 03:06 PM

Fork replacement troubles
 
​Hello everyone. I have recently decided to upgrade my old touring bike. One component I want to replace is the fork - I opted for a rigid one instead of the old suspension. The problem I run into is that there are not many options on the market of the threaded rigid forks with the same steerer length (150 mm) that my old fork has. Searching both amazon and ebay returns literally zero tangible results. I am not experienced in bike mechanics, so I am wondering what options I have in general: a)to buy a fork of close dimensions (say, 175 mm of length) and use some additional components to accommodate it to the frame; OR b)to replace the threaded fork with a threadless one – there seem to be more of those available and, as I understand, the longer steerer would be less of a problem here, as it would be easier to adjust the length to the frame – right? The downside of this solution would be the need to replace the headset as well, which is not a trivial procedure per se.

I tend to choose option a), but I am not sure if it is viable at all. Is it possible to accommodate a slightly longer (threaded) steerer to the frame? If yes, which components will I have to purchase? What are the limitations which I have to take into account? Please advise. Thank you.

nfmisso 05-02-18 03:19 PM

First question: is it a 1" (nominal, 7/8" actual OD of steerer tube) or a 1 1/8" (nominal, 1" actual OD of steerer tube) ?

Replacing headsets is pretty trivial. I made a headset press with a length of 1/2-13 threaded rod, an assortment of washers, two sets of spherical washers (to prevent side loading of the cups), and two large knobs threaded 1/2-13 (Amazon has everything, Home Depot has everything too). Knock out the old cups with a section of ¾" copper pipe or hard wood dowel and hammer.; clean up frame, very lightly grease the frame and press in the new headset (both ends at the same time, or on at a time).

If it is a 1" threaded, get a long one, and cut it to length, clean up, take to a local bike shop and have them extend the threads. Call around first to confirm the shop has a die to do the threading, they may also want to cut it for you to ensure a clean square cut. Fixture for cutting is highly recommended. You can find a die on eBay and other sources if you want to DIY.

If it is a 1 1./8" threaded, call around, you may find a shop with a die. I couldn't find a shop with a die, nor could I find a source for a die. I switched to threadless.

OleksiiO 05-02-18 03:32 PM


Originally Posted by nfmisso (Post 20319287)
First question: is it a 1" (nominal, 7/8" actual OD of steerer tube) or a 1 1/8" (nominal, 1" actual OD of steerer tube) ?

It's a 1 1/8". If I go converting-to-threadless way, am I right with an assumption that the steerer length of a new (threadless) fork is not a problem to adjust?

70sSanO 05-02-18 03:34 PM

Try here:
Bikeman: Rigid Fork

I got a 1" Kona Project Two fork for a project a few years back.

​​​​​​​John

dedhed 05-02-18 03:34 PM

Other things you need to consider on a fork - - replacing suspension with rigid you likely want a suspension corrected fork to retain the general geometry of the frame.
What kind of brake mounts, where. Tire clearance and size issues width, 26", 27, 700. Fender/rack mounts. Trail/rake, however you want to define the axle offset. Stems, headsets, brake cable mounts etc.

Andrew R Stewart 05-02-18 07:43 PM


Originally Posted by nfmisso (Post 20319287)
First question: is it a 1" (nominal, 7/8" actual OD of steerer tube) or a 1 1/8" (nominal, 1" actual OD of steerer tube) ?

Replacing headsets is pretty trivial. I made a headset press with a length of 1/2-13 threaded rod, an assortment of washers, two sets of spherical washers (to prevent side loading of the cups), and two large knobs threaded 1/2-13 (Amazon has everything, Home Depot has everything too). Knock out the old cups with a section of ¾" copper pipe or hard wood dowel and hammer.; clean up frame, very lightly grease the frame and press in the new headset (both ends at the same time, or on at a time).

If it is a 1" threaded, get a long one, and cut it to length, clean up, take to a local bike shop and have them extend the threads. Call around first to confirm the shop has a die to do the threading, they may also want to cut it for you to ensure a clean square cut. Fixture for cutting is highly recommended. You can find a die on eBay and other sources if you want to DIY.

If it is a 1 1./8" threaded, call around, you may find a shop with a die. I couldn't find a shop with a die, nor could I find a source for a die. I switched to threadless.

I think this post means ID instead of OD when referencing steerers. A 1" steerer has a 7/8" ID as example (well, much of the time. There are many US made low cost steerers with a 0.833" ID). Also threading a non threaded steerer can result in a mess. Most easily available dies are not meant for fresh thread cutting but for chasing existing threads. Andy

OleksiiO 05-03-18 10:47 AM


Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart (Post 20319727)
Also threading a non threaded steerer can result in a mess. Most easily available dies are not meant for fresh thread cutting but for chasing existing threads. Andy

Yeah, that's what I figured, too. Treading a non threaded steerer is not my goal. I will likely go for switching to a threadless fork and the headset which matches it.

fietsbob 05-03-18 10:59 AM

Posters are coming from their US shopping perspective ..

A suspension corrected fork should not be that difficult to find already in Germany, (Ask at Shops yet?)
as the lower cost volume producers in Taiwan ship all over the globe into the EU, thru ports like Bremerhaven & Rotterdam.

a fork Made by one of the German companies may cost a bit more, I'm aware of Tout Terrain , there (disc)
and Thorn , in UK.. V brakes..

















..

cobba 05-03-18 11:36 AM


Originally Posted by OleksiiO (Post 20319254)
​Searching both amazon and ebay returns literally zero tangible results.

Try some local shops.
https://www.hibike.de/
https://www.bike-components.de/
https://www.bike24.com/
https://www.rosebikes.de/
https://www.bike-discount.de/


Originally Posted by OleksiiO (Post 20319313)
It's a 1 1/8". If I go converting-to-threadless way, am I right with an assumption that the steerer length of a new (threadless) fork is not a problem to adjust?

If the steering is too long, cut it to the correct length, just make sure that it is long enough.

TimothyH 05-03-18 11:40 AM


Originally Posted by OleksiiO (Post 20319313)
It's a 1 1/8". If I go converting-to-threadless way, am I right with an assumption that the steerer length of a new (threadless) fork is not a problem to adjust?

Steerers on threadless forks are cut to the proper length. Many intentionally leave them a little long and make a final cut to the proper length only after they are sure.

Carver makes rigid forks which are suspension corrected for mountain bikes.

Carver Bikes - It's the Ride.

le mans 05-03-18 02:26 PM

Have you tried to locate a private wrecker? there seems to be a lot bike part sellers here locally they advertise on Gumtree

[i accumulated heaps, i bet i could match you one:-)]

good conversion move i reckon, who really needs front suspension??

OleksiiO 05-05-18 04:27 PM


Originally Posted by dedhed (Post 20319318)
Other things you need to consider on a fork - - replacing suspension with rigid you likely want a suspension corrected fork to retain the general geometry of the frame.
What kind of brake mounts, where. Tire clearance and size issues width, 26", 27, 700. Fender/rack mounts. Trail/rake, however you want to define the axle offset. Stems, headsets, brake cable mounts etc.

Thanks for the heads up. I will check those out.

OleksiiO 05-05-18 04:29 PM


Originally Posted by cobba (Post 20320722)
Try some local shops

Thanks! I will check those.

OleksiiO 05-07-18 07:54 AM


Originally Posted by le mans (Post 20321046)
good conversion move i reckon, who really needs front suspension??

I guess front suspension is a must have if you drive rough roads (downhill etc), but for my personal purposes it is not really necessary.

OleksiiO 05-29-18 12:43 AM

Hi! Just wanted to thank you for your advice. I found a perfect fit in one of the web shops which you suggested. Cheers!


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