Fork replacement troubles
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2018
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From: Frankfurt am Main
Fork replacement troubles
Hello everyone. I have recently decided to upgrade my old touring bike. One component I want to replace is the fork - I opted for a rigid one instead of the old suspension. The problem I run into is that there are not many options on the market of the threaded rigid forks with the same steerer length (150 mm) that my old fork has. Searching both amazon and ebay returns literally zero tangible results. I am not experienced in bike mechanics, so I am wondering what options I have in general: a)to buy a fork of close dimensions (say, 175 mm of length) and use some additional components to accommodate it to the frame; OR b)to replace the threaded fork with a threadless one – there seem to be more of those available and, as I understand, the longer steerer would be less of a problem here, as it would be easier to adjust the length to the frame – right? The downside of this solution would be the need to replace the headset as well, which is not a trivial procedure per se.
I tend to choose option a), but I am not sure if it is viable at all. Is it possible to accommodate a slightly longer (threaded) steerer to the frame? If yes, which components will I have to purchase? What are the limitations which I have to take into account? Please advise. Thank you.
I tend to choose option a), but I am not sure if it is viable at all. Is it possible to accommodate a slightly longer (threaded) steerer to the frame? If yes, which components will I have to purchase? What are the limitations which I have to take into account? Please advise. Thank you.
#2
Nigel
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,991
Likes: 7
From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: 1980s and 1990s steel: CyclePro, Nishiki, Schwinn, SR, Trek........
First question: is it a 1" (nominal, 7/8" actual OD of steerer tube) or a 1 1/8" (nominal, 1" actual OD of steerer tube) ?
Replacing headsets is pretty trivial. I made a headset press with a length of 1/2-13 threaded rod, an assortment of washers, two sets of spherical washers (to prevent side loading of the cups), and two large knobs threaded 1/2-13 (Amazon has everything, Home Depot has everything too). Knock out the old cups with a section of ¾" copper pipe or hard wood dowel and hammer.; clean up frame, very lightly grease the frame and press in the new headset (both ends at the same time, or on at a time).
If it is a 1" threaded, get a long one, and cut it to length, clean up, take to a local bike shop and have them extend the threads. Call around first to confirm the shop has a die to do the threading, they may also want to cut it for you to ensure a clean square cut. Fixture for cutting is highly recommended. You can find a die on eBay and other sources if you want to DIY.
If it is a 1 1./8" threaded, call around, you may find a shop with a die. I couldn't find a shop with a die, nor could I find a source for a die. I switched to threadless.
Replacing headsets is pretty trivial. I made a headset press with a length of 1/2-13 threaded rod, an assortment of washers, two sets of spherical washers (to prevent side loading of the cups), and two large knobs threaded 1/2-13 (Amazon has everything, Home Depot has everything too). Knock out the old cups with a section of ¾" copper pipe or hard wood dowel and hammer.; clean up frame, very lightly grease the frame and press in the new headset (both ends at the same time, or on at a time).
If it is a 1" threaded, get a long one, and cut it to length, clean up, take to a local bike shop and have them extend the threads. Call around first to confirm the shop has a die to do the threading, they may also want to cut it for you to ensure a clean square cut. Fixture for cutting is highly recommended. You can find a die on eBay and other sources if you want to DIY.
If it is a 1 1./8" threaded, call around, you may find a shop with a die. I couldn't find a shop with a die, nor could I find a source for a die. I switched to threadless.
#3
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2018
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From: Frankfurt am Main
It's a 1 1/8". If I go converting-to-threadless way, am I right with an assumption that the steerer length of a new (threadless) fork is not a problem to adjust?
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 6,006
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From: Mission Viejo
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Try here:
Bikeman: Rigid Fork
I got a 1" Kona Project Two fork for a project a few years back.
John
Bikeman: Rigid Fork
I got a 1" Kona Project Two fork for a project a few years back.
John
#5
SE Wis

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,556
Likes: 4,334
From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Other things you need to consider on a fork - - replacing suspension with rigid you likely want a suspension corrected fork to retain the general geometry of the frame.
What kind of brake mounts, where. Tire clearance and size issues width, 26", 27, 700. Fender/rack mounts. Trail/rake, however you want to define the axle offset. Stems, headsets, brake cable mounts etc.
What kind of brake mounts, where. Tire clearance and size issues width, 26", 27, 700. Fender/rack mounts. Trail/rake, however you want to define the axle offset. Stems, headsets, brake cable mounts etc.
#6
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,381
Likes: 5,527
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
First question: is it a 1" (nominal, 7/8" actual OD of steerer tube) or a 1 1/8" (nominal, 1" actual OD of steerer tube) ?
Replacing headsets is pretty trivial. I made a headset press with a length of 1/2-13 threaded rod, an assortment of washers, two sets of spherical washers (to prevent side loading of the cups), and two large knobs threaded 1/2-13 (Amazon has everything, Home Depot has everything too). Knock out the old cups with a section of ¾" copper pipe or hard wood dowel and hammer.; clean up frame, very lightly grease the frame and press in the new headset (both ends at the same time, or on at a time).
If it is a 1" threaded, get a long one, and cut it to length, clean up, take to a local bike shop and have them extend the threads. Call around first to confirm the shop has a die to do the threading, they may also want to cut it for you to ensure a clean square cut. Fixture for cutting is highly recommended. You can find a die on eBay and other sources if you want to DIY.
If it is a 1 1./8" threaded, call around, you may find a shop with a die. I couldn't find a shop with a die, nor could I find a source for a die. I switched to threadless.
Replacing headsets is pretty trivial. I made a headset press with a length of 1/2-13 threaded rod, an assortment of washers, two sets of spherical washers (to prevent side loading of the cups), and two large knobs threaded 1/2-13 (Amazon has everything, Home Depot has everything too). Knock out the old cups with a section of ¾" copper pipe or hard wood dowel and hammer.; clean up frame, very lightly grease the frame and press in the new headset (both ends at the same time, or on at a time).
If it is a 1" threaded, get a long one, and cut it to length, clean up, take to a local bike shop and have them extend the threads. Call around first to confirm the shop has a die to do the threading, they may also want to cut it for you to ensure a clean square cut. Fixture for cutting is highly recommended. You can find a die on eBay and other sources if you want to DIY.
If it is a 1 1./8" threaded, call around, you may find a shop with a die. I couldn't find a shop with a die, nor could I find a source for a die. I switched to threadless.
#7
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 7
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From: Frankfurt am Main
Yeah, that's what I figured, too. Treading a non threaded steerer is not my goal. I will likely go for switching to a threadless fork and the headset which matches it.
#8
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Posters are coming from their US shopping perspective ..
A suspension corrected fork should not be that difficult to find already in Germany, (Ask at Shops yet?)
as the lower cost volume producers in Taiwan ship all over the globe into the EU, thru ports like Bremerhaven & Rotterdam.
a fork Made by one of the German companies may cost a bit more, I'm aware of Tout Terrain , there (disc)
and Thorn , in UK.. V brakes..
..
A suspension corrected fork should not be that difficult to find already in Germany, (Ask at Shops yet?)
as the lower cost volume producers in Taiwan ship all over the globe into the EU, thru ports like Bremerhaven & Rotterdam.
a fork Made by one of the German companies may cost a bit more, I'm aware of Tout Terrain , there (disc)
and Thorn , in UK.. V brakes..
..
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 70
https://www.hibike.de/
https://www.bike-components.de/
https://www.bike24.com/
https://www.rosebikes.de/
https://www.bike-discount.de/
If the steering is too long, cut it to the correct length, just make sure that it is long enough.
#10
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14,779
Likes: 743
From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Carver makes rigid forks which are suspension corrected for mountain bikes.
Carver Bikes - It's the Ride.
#11
Steel is real
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 772
Likes: 18
From: Australia
Bikes: Custom - Record Vortex 8 spd Nexus & Mistral Le Mans 3 spd Shimano. Giant Kronos. Raliegh Single Speed
Have you tried to locate a private wrecker? there seems to be a lot bike part sellers here locally they advertise on Gumtree
[i accumulated heaps, i bet i could match you one:-)]
good conversion move i reckon, who really needs front suspension??
[i accumulated heaps, i bet i could match you one:-)]
good conversion move i reckon, who really needs front suspension??
#12
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Frankfurt am Main
Other things you need to consider on a fork - - replacing suspension with rigid you likely want a suspension corrected fork to retain the general geometry of the frame.
What kind of brake mounts, where. Tire clearance and size issues width, 26", 27, 700. Fender/rack mounts. Trail/rake, however you want to define the axle offset. Stems, headsets, brake cable mounts etc.
What kind of brake mounts, where. Tire clearance and size issues width, 26", 27, 700. Fender/rack mounts. Trail/rake, however you want to define the axle offset. Stems, headsets, brake cable mounts etc.
#14
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2018
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From: Frankfurt am Main
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