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Old 05-02-18 | 07:43 PM
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Andrew R Stewart
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From: Rochester, NY

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Originally Posted by nfmisso
First question: is it a 1" (nominal, 7/8" actual OD of steerer tube) or a 1 1/8" (nominal, 1" actual OD of steerer tube) ?

Replacing headsets is pretty trivial. I made a headset press with a length of 1/2-13 threaded rod, an assortment of washers, two sets of spherical washers (to prevent side loading of the cups), and two large knobs threaded 1/2-13 (Amazon has everything, Home Depot has everything too). Knock out the old cups with a section of ¾" copper pipe or hard wood dowel and hammer.; clean up frame, very lightly grease the frame and press in the new headset (both ends at the same time, or on at a time).

If it is a 1" threaded, get a long one, and cut it to length, clean up, take to a local bike shop and have them extend the threads. Call around first to confirm the shop has a die to do the threading, they may also want to cut it for you to ensure a clean square cut. Fixture for cutting is highly recommended. You can find a die on eBay and other sources if you want to DIY.

If it is a 1 1./8" threaded, call around, you may find a shop with a die. I couldn't find a shop with a die, nor could I find a source for a die. I switched to threadless.
I think this post means ID instead of OD when referencing steerers. A 1" steerer has a 7/8" ID as example (well, much of the time. There are many US made low cost steerers with a 0.833" ID). Also threading a non threaded steerer can result in a mess. Most easily available dies are not meant for fresh thread cutting but for chasing existing threads. Andy
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