Headset ”bearings”...typical?
#1
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From: Inland Southern California
Bikes: 1963 Schwinn, EuroMini Urbano, Magnum Premium 48, Brompton S6L, Tokyo Bike Mini-Velo
Headset ”bearings”...typical?
I have an everyman’s folder...inexpensive but it’s been 100% reliable, it gets ridden quite frequently (and Im no butterfly) and I have NO complaints with it....it owes me nothing.
my experience to-date has largely been withold Schwinns, restoring and riding as cruisers and restorations. Those have ball bearing-ed steering assemblies.
But when my folder developed an irritating creak in it’s headset when turned quickly I dropped the forks (“threadless”?) and found plastic bearing shaped bushings and NO ball bearings riding in races. And one of them is cracked.
I lubed everything and reassembled as-is and it steers smoothly, freely as it ever has, but it still creaks.
Is this type of headset arrangement normal these days for this type/price/genre of bicycle?
if so, are parts, replacement parts specifically, available or do these tend to be proprietary rendering me S.O.L.?
Anyone have some constructive insight regarding remedying this with replacement parts? TIA
Is this typical these days?
Is this typical these days?
my experience to-date has largely been withold Schwinns, restoring and riding as cruisers and restorations. Those have ball bearing-ed steering assemblies.
But when my folder developed an irritating creak in it’s headset when turned quickly I dropped the forks (“threadless”?) and found plastic bearing shaped bushings and NO ball bearings riding in races. And one of them is cracked.
I lubed everything and reassembled as-is and it steers smoothly, freely as it ever has, but it still creaks.
Is this type of headset arrangement normal these days for this type/price/genre of bicycle?
if so, are parts, replacement parts specifically, available or do these tend to be proprietary rendering me S.O.L.?
Anyone have some constructive insight regarding remedying this with replacement parts? TIA

Is this typical these days?
Is this typical these days?
#2
At one time, just like most other components, there were very few options. Today, there are more styles than I can count. I used to build my own bikes up from the frame, without the internet. Now, that is impossible because of the dozen or so standards being produced. Unless, we're talking high end headset, it may be difficult to find a replacement part.. Mid level headsets will cost in the $20-30 range. I've never seen a headset with no ball bearings, so cannot help you there. I suggest, take the headset off, take some pics, measure diameters, inside and out, then go to a LBS.
#3
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From: Melbourne, Oz
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
Measure the bushings, and see if you can find suitable cartridge bearings in that size.
If not, you should be able to get replacement bushings made without too much difficulty.
Failing that, find a bit of PVC pipe of that diameter, and cut a slice.
If not, you should be able to get replacement bushings made without too much difficulty.
Failing that, find a bit of PVC pipe of that diameter, and cut a slice.
#4
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Are the headset cups removable and are the headtube and steerer standard diameters? If so, a complete new cartridge bearing headset would be the way to go. If not, you are going to have to improvise.
#5
I don't think I've seen a bushed headset yet. 
Many of the cartridge type headsets have a compression ring (centering cone?) that is often split as it doesn't have bearings riding on it.
Anyway, I'd start looking at cartridge bearing upgrades if yours is actually bushed. It would likely make the headset smoother turning and safer.
Do you have some photos of the steer tube?
What size and type of steer tube/fork/stem does the bike use? Threaded? Threadless? Some kind of threadless with a locking compression spacer?

Many of the cartridge type headsets have a compression ring (centering cone?) that is often split as it doesn't have bearings riding on it.
Anyway, I'd start looking at cartridge bearing upgrades if yours is actually bushed. It would likely make the headset smoother turning and safer.
Do you have some photos of the steer tube?
What size and type of steer tube/fork/stem does the bike use? Threaded? Threadless? Some kind of threadless with a locking compression spacer?
#6
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2017
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From: Inland Southern California
Bikes: 1963 Schwinn, EuroMini Urbano, Magnum Premium 48, Brompton S6L, Tokyo Bike Mini-Velo
I don't think I've seen a bushed headset yet. 
Many of the cartridge type headsets have a compression ring (centering cone?) that is often split as it doesn't have bearings riding on it.
Anyway, I'd start looking at cartridge bearing upgrades if yours is actually bushed. It would likely make the headset smoother turning and safer.
Do you have some photos of the steer tube?
What size and type of steer tube/fork/stem does the bike use? Threaded? Threadless? Some kind of threadless with a locking compression spacer?

Many of the cartridge type headsets have a compression ring (centering cone?) that is often split as it doesn't have bearings riding on it.
Anyway, I'd start looking at cartridge bearing upgrades if yours is actually bushed. It would likely make the headset smoother turning and safer.
Do you have some photos of the steer tube?
What size and type of steer tube/fork/stem does the bike use? Threaded? Threadless? Some kind of threadless with a locking compression spacer?
#7
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Sunny Tampa, Florida
See if you can find the brand and model here: https://blue.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder
__________________
Still stupid and seriously neglected..
Still stupid and seriously neglected..
#8
It (pictured part) is exactly that- a centering cone. The crack seems inconsequential. I have found the bearings....much different animals than Im accustomed to. That said, the pressed in bearings, both upper and lower feel quite smooth when rotated by hand with the steerer removed, and likewise in use...but that creak. Its hard to ignore.
Does the fork move when you apply the brake and rock forward and back?
I'm not sure about the creak, if it is all tight. I think your crack may be a red herring, and may be normal for the part,although it doesn't look as straight as I'd expect. Is the jagged part uniform?
#9
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From: Bali
Bikes: In service - FSIR Spin 3.0, Bannard Sunny minivelo, Dahon Dash Altena folder. Several others in construction or temporarily decommissioned.
Lest this example further misguide a forum largely ignorant of folding bikes, let say that, no, it is not normal, common or customary for folders to have bearing-free headsets.
The OP will find more knowledge in the Folding Bicycle channel.
The OP will find more knowledge in the Folding Bicycle channel.
#11
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From: Inland Southern California
Bikes: 1963 Schwinn, EuroMini Urbano, Magnum Premium 48, Brompton S6L, Tokyo Bike Mini-Velo
So, it sounds like you just need to clean up the headset and put it back together with a bit of bearing preload, however, your bike achieves that.
Does the fork move when you apply the brake and rock forward and back?
I'm not sure about the creak, if it is all tight. I think your crack may be a red herring, and may be normal for the part,although it doesn't look as straight as I'd expect. Is the jagged part uniform?
Does the fork move when you apply the brake and rock forward and back?
I'm not sure about the creak, if it is all tight. I think your crack may be a red herring, and may be normal for the part,although it doesn't look as straight as I'd expect. Is the jagged part uniform?
I will dis/re-assemble again for drill and try to eliminate the creak...thanks all for the input.
#12
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 319
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From: Inland Southern California
Bikes: 1963 Schwinn, EuroMini Urbano, Magnum Premium 48, Brompton S6L, Tokyo Bike Mini-Velo










