I have always used Campy and changing the chain is second nature. Now, I have a bike with all Shimano and have the chain ready to go. I am at the point of separating the links from the amount I needed and I noticed that I have to use the included pin that comes in a small package with the chain? I thought I could just separate the chain and connect to the other end. It looks like a different install compared to Campy?

Sounds like you have a chain without a quick link. Use a chain tool to push the pin in until the non-tapered side is flush with the link, then use pliers to snap off the part that you pushed through. I just did this for the first time on Friday, it's easy-peasy.

It really is a better system - you punch out the whole pin of the link where you want the chain length to be, and then push in the little leader pin to join it all up.

I don't miss the days of pushing the pin "just far enough but not all the way out". And I successfully threaded a pin that I pushed too far just once... took most of a whole day.

I'd get a proper quick link/master link and use that instead; I dislike the Shimano "special joining pin" concept.

Ditto. They're common and cheap.

Also, keep in mind most Shimano chains are asymmetric. All lettering/numbering on link plates face outward (away from bike).
highly suggest a quickie link.
good luck.

You can use KMC quick links with shimano chains if the 'speeds'

chain width matches.

I have no background in high end Newest Dura Ace race bike stuff,
people around here, in the county, don't spend that kind of money..




....

I have been using the 'pin' on three Shimano chains(10 speed) and the only thing that was not clear was which side of the chain should I use when inserting the pin? I decided on inserting the pin on the non-drive side of the chain and breaking the pin off on the drive side. This lets the non-drive side that runs near the cassette be perfectly flush, when you break off the pin on the drive side it is not perfectly flush.

New Shimano 11 speed chains should not come with joining pins but should come with quick-links instead.

If you purchase a Shimano 11 speed chain with joining pins then it is old stock. Newer stock will have an indication of the quick link on the front of the package.


-Tim-

You've been doing it backwards:

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-CN0001-05-ENG.pdf

Thanks for that link. I will switch on my next chain. When I do it the way the link shows, I want to take a dremel and smooth down the broken off protrusion.

I bought a new 11 spd shimano and it came with a quick link. I actually did not use it yet I will save it. I always have used a shimano chain and a connex quick link for my 10 spds and then connex started making 11 spd quick links. They add some to the cost but of all the quick links they are the best and easiest to use. I can take the chain off and on to clean in seconds.

I wouldnt recomend this, I got by with some solid core wire to hold my master links together. Its not like I havent tried buying a new master link. Two shops wanted me to buy the whole chain. When you can see I have a perfectly good chain. Id be just as far ahead after burning 86 bucks. We dont sell links separately". Lame.

I ride mostly Campagnolo drivetrains with Shimano chains. Best chains in terms of longevity and shift quality.

Use the supplied Shimano pin, as far as strength, a much superior solution to quick links. Shops despise Shimano chains, because they take a extra 60 seconds to install, and you have to read the included instructions, clearly beyond your standard shop mechanic.

I've heard that Shimano has caved-in to misguided customer and shop pressure, and for 11-speed chains has gone to a quick link system.

Normally, Shimano is a rational engineering-based firm that gets dragged into dumb things when forced to by external irrationalities. For example, stupidity like 1 x drivetrains, 11 speeds (now 12 speeds? Seriously? ) etc.

I was a shop mechanic. I never cared what kind of chain, and installing a pin takes no more time than a quick link. Especially when some quick links have to be oriented correctly, which means you have to check the instructions. I'd post the quick link instructions on the bench for quick reference. I only had to read the Shimano instructions once.

Where are you getting your information from? I imagine Shimano went to quick links because they work fine and 11 speed side plates are very thin.

It's all about weight reduction ... from one's wallet.

I've used Shimano's joining pin on their chains since the 8-speed days and have also used Craig Super Links (anyone else remember them?) on Shimano chains, and Wipperman's Connex links, and SRAM and KMC quicklinks on their respective chains. All of them work and the only disadvantage to the Shimano pins is for those who remove their chains frequently for cleaning. The Shimano pins are indeed quicker to install and i've never had one fail. For that matter, I've never had a quick link fail either.

If you're hamfisted it's not difficult to sightly over press a Shimano pin, and I've defiantly seen some failures, though none on my personal bikes or on any chains I've installed to my knowledge.

The last campy chains to simply press in a normal pin is 9 speed. 10 speed campy used a special joining chain segment and 11 and 12 speed use a joining pin that must be peened with a special chain tool.

Timely post. I just tried to install a new Ultegra 11-speed chain yesterday and could not get the master link to fully close. I tried every trick and tool I have. It looks like it should be so easy. I caved and ordered a master link tool (Park 1.2).

I miss the old Shimano chains with the pins.

Did you have the link running on the top stretch of chain, then step on the pedal?

There's a youtube guy that shows himself trying to get the link to lock with it on the bottom between the crank and rear derailleur. That's not going to work.

I can usually snap them on with a thumbnail, removing them in another thing. Its easy to deform them, or they fly away. Good to have the pliers. Especially true if you encounter O rings on a car or motorcycle.